Viper Alarm Install - Need some pointers

[NAREJEPP]

So last Friday night, I took my girl to a movie. Came out of the theater to find that my truck had been broken into and cleaned out. They took my stereo, amp, two 10" subs and the box they were mounted in.

They punched out the passenger door lock cylinder, which effectively circumvented the factory alarm.

This is the 3rd time this has happened in the last 5 years or so, but they never got away with as much as they did this time. Regardless, I figured it's time to get a good alarm setup.

After doing some research and talking with some local installers, I bought a Viper system off ebay (Viper 5701) and am going to try to install it myself.

I do have experience with installing GPS systems that had remote starter disables, but they weren't nearly as complex as what I think I'm getting into. I've already pulled the knee panel thing that's under the steering wheel (not sure what you would call that) and started scoping out wiring harnesses. I also already have printed out all the connector views for the ignition harness and the 3 BCM harnesses that are under there. I'm under the impression that those 4 harnesses are the only things that I will need to tie into. I also got an idatalink transponder bypass (ADS-TBSL PL) from the local shop I had talked to (they said I would need it to communicate with the truck's keyless entry, to make the locks work with the alarm system.) I've also downloaded manuals off the web for each device.

Overall, I feel like I have a basic understanding of what I need to do. I guess I'm looking for some advice or tips from others that have more experience than I do. Is there something important I'm missing? or anything else I might need to know.

I'll be attempting the install early next week (Sun or Mon most likely) and at that point, alot more questions may be cropping up.

Thanks for any help or tips, I'm gonna need it.

[dropem]

What year is you truck?

The one main thing that I will say is use a tach signal don't rely on there voltage sensing setting even though viper is the best one using that technology, I sill would rather have a tach signal to tell it to turn the starter off rather than relying on voltage.

And soldier all of your connections, no t-taps scotch locks or butt connectors because all of those can make for unreliable performance. Also I would use scotch super 33 tape to cover all of my connections.

[NAREJEPP]

What year is you truck?

The one main thing that I will say is use a tach signal don't rely on there voltage sensing setting even though viper is the best one using that technology, I sill would rather have a tach signal to tell it to turn the starter off rather than relying on voltage.

And soldier all of your connections, no t-taps scotch locks or butt connectors because all of those can make for unreliable performance. Also I would use scotch super 33 tape to cover all of my connections.

It's a 2000 ECSB. As far as the connections go, I had planned on using t-taps for all the small gauge wires, and then soldering the larger ignition wires for the remote start. Enough people have told to solder everything that I may have to do it that way. I don't want to be chasing wiring problems a year from now, that's for sure. I'm under the impression that a lot of wires on those harnesses you just tap into with the viper harness, leaving the original connections intact. What is the best way to tap into these wires and still use solder to do it? I wanted to use the t-taps to avoid cutting the factory wires as much as possible.

Thanks for the help.

[dropem]

I wouldn't cut the wire i would just strip the shielding off of about a 1 inch section and wrap the viper wires around the factory wire and then solider them on that way covered with tape.

[NAREJEPP]

I wouldn't cut the wire i would just strip the shielding off of about a 1 inch section and wrap the viper wires around the factory wire and then solider them on that way covered with tape.

Along the same lines I was thinking just now.

I'm gonna be making sure to read through the manuals really well over the weekend, assuming ups drops it off on time, and will probably have more questions then too.

[Slowcrewcab]

I wouldn't cut the wire i would just strip the shielding off of about a 1 inch section and wrap the viper wires around the factory wire and then solider them on that way covered with tape.

Totally agree with this butt remember the physical connection is better than solder. What I mean is make sure the wire is wrapped up good before soldering

[TRPLXL2]

Long story short I had a Viper alarm "professionally" installed about 10 years ago, It worked for about a month and then all kinds of stuff started happening with it. We ended up just unhooking it, because I kept having a dead battery. When I took it all apart I found out they used all wire taps on it, there were dozens of wires done like this and boy did it make me mad!!!

Me personally I wouldn't use wire taps on a go kart...Solder solder solder

[NAREJEPP]

Totally agree with this butt remember the physical connection is better than solder. What I mean is make sure the wire is wrapped up good before soldering

Right

Solder seems to be the way to go. Now I just need to find time this weekend to brush up on my soldering skills.

[Slowcrewcab]

Right

Solder seems to be the way to go. Now I just need to find time this weekend to brush up on my soldering skills.

It's even funner upside down in dash I use to do it I worked at a audio and alarm/remote start place but ive forgot most of it. It's been highschool days in 05 lol

[NAREJEPP]

It's even funner upside down in dash I use to do it I worked at a audio and alarm/remote start place but ive forgot most of it. It's been highschool days in 05 lol

I can imagine, I'm not exactly looking forward to it
Definitely ready to get it done though. I got a new stereo for a deal, but am hesitant to buy or install any other replacements until I'm confident they will be safe

Thanks again for the help