+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Problem #37, E-Manifold bolt broke in head

Hybrid View

  1. #1

    Problem #37, E-Manifold bolt broke in head

    the bolt broke flush, I drilled it , pretty straight too, but when I was using the easy out, the easy out broke, now what? Can you all help?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Crowder, OK
    Posts
    8,005
    Vice grips, tack weld another bolt to it and back it out?

    1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
    2007 Chevy RCSB 4.8 4x4 LS SOLD
    2008 Chevy RCSB 5.3 4x4 LT SOLD
    2010 Chevy CCSB 6.2 4x4 LT SOLD
    2005 GMC CCLB DRW 6.6 Duramax 4x4 191,000 and counting
    2013 FORD CCSB F350 6.7 Powerstroke 4x4


  3. #3
    Well, if I had a welder.......I thought of that too, but I dont have and dont know anyone who does have one close. Are 4.8 and 5.3 heads the same?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    solid carbide drill bit or a tap burner. Slow rpm drilling on that tool steel or you'll burn the carbide drill up. You can dremel it out with a stone, I suppose.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Tyler, TX
    Posts
    871
    1/4'' shank/ 1/4'' ''double cut'' carbide burr and a right angle die grinder, keep your rpms low on the die grinder and center it on the bolt shaft that you can see, if you drilled it pretty straight, this should be easy. lighty push the carbide burr into the bolt and let it chew its way through and be very careful to keep it in the center. keep some WD-40 or other light viscosity oil around and keep the carbid burr lubricated so it doesn't load up with chips. grind all the way down through the bolt until it falls on through, you should have a hollow cylinder left in there with threads on the outside, now grind out as much as you can without getting into the alumin threads, after that get a sharp center punch and try to fold the threads in on themselves, it should all come out in pieces like half circles. keep at it and grind out some more steel when necessary. if your careful you will have perfectly good threads left in there
    [IMG]https://images.app.goo.gl/XLfskemekXBo5VfS7/IMG]
    www.tjc.edu

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Tyler, TX
    Posts
    871
    i'm a machinist and i have literally done over 200 bolts this exact same way in this year alone. it works awesome though it is a little time consuming it beats the hell out of paying for the helicoil kit if you just drill the threads out. i make alot of money off of people that break taps, drills, and ease-outs. so do it right, be patient and just be careful, you'll be amazed at how easy it is once you get started. you can buy the burr at most equipment shops, a stone and a dremel wont last long
    [IMG]https://images.app.goo.gl/XLfskemekXBo5VfS7/IMG]
    www.tjc.edu

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    So true about the dremel stone.

    Sometimes you can take a pick or sharp punch and hit the edges of the easy out and knock the taper loose. It's best to just go ahead and pull the head and work on it on a bench or table once you've gotten yourself into this predicament, that or just live with a leak.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Mesquite
    Posts
    8,176
    For what it's worth...you never mentioned if you had a leak or not...? If you don't - just run it how it is. I had the exact same problem in my old truck and never had it leak.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts