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Thread: 8.1L in 78’ K10: Dual tank switch valve woes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Pueblo, CO
    Posts
    14

    8.1L in 78’ K10: Dual tank switch valve woes

    Hello, I am new around here.

    I just completed an 8.1L swap into a 1978 Chevrolet K10 running on an MEFI-4b engine controller and a frame mounted electric fuel pump. I am having an issue with the dual fuel tank switch valve causing a restriction on the fuel return side which results in extremely high fuel pressure. Once the switch valve is bypassed the fuel pressure runs normal (38 to 44 psi is normal for a MEFI-4 controlled engine).

    Has anybody found an alternative dual tank switch valve other than the stock GM (Polluk) valve? Something about that valve is restrictive as all hell.

    I am considering swapping the RH fuel tank for a 1987 tank and using an AC Delco EP241 in-tank fuel pump then running a frame mount pump to act as a transfer pump to move fuel from the LH to RH tank. The in-tank fuel pump would be more reliable any way. It just sucks to have to wire in a transfer pump if I don't have to.

    Here is the beast....
    Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Adams, TN
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyLarry View Post
    Hello, I am new around here.

    I just completed an 8.1L swap into a 1978 Chevrolet K10 running on an MEFI-4b engine controller and a frame mounted electric fuel pump. I am having an issue with the dual fuel tank switch valve causing a restriction on the fuel return side which results in extremely high fuel pressure. Once the switch valve is bypassed the fuel pressure runs normal (38 to 44 psi is normal for a MEFI-4 controlled engine).

    Has anybody found an alternative dual tank switch valve other than the stock GM (Polluk) valve? Something about that valve is restrictive as all hell.

    I am considering swapping the RH fuel tank for a 1987 tank and using an AC Delco EP241 in-tank fuel pump then running a frame mount pump to act as a transfer pump to move fuel from the LH to RH tank. The in-tank fuel pump would be more reliable any way. It just sucks to have to wire in a transfer pump if I don't have to.

    Here is the beast....
    I don't have an answer for you, but that's a helluva set up you have! Makes me want to get mine going sooner!
    '04.5 LLY/Ally
    '72 K20 - Future home of a 6.0...or maybe an 8.1
    "Don't worry 'bout the DURAMAX, just load the sled!"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Hurley, Mississippi
    Posts
    365
    I'm running the dual tank set up with no issues on return pressure. I have an ext. pump as well, but plan to go to an 87 tank set up later. The switching manifold is a little different than the <'86 and is rated for ~62 psi.
    '86 Silvy- '06 6.0/4L80E, K&N, 2.5 X-pipe Magnaflows, 20" Foose Wheels, Auburn Pro, 3.90 Richmond Gears, and the list is growing!!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Pueblo, CO
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by Shep View Post
    I don't have an answer for you, but that's a helluva set up you have! Makes me want to get mine going sooner!
    Thanks Shep…

    I am pretty much decided on ditching the dual tank switch valve and running an 87’ RH tank and a transfer pump to move fuel from the LH tank to the RH.
    By the looks of your signature you are entertaining the thought of an 8.1L as well…From my experience I will tell you that the 8.1L is a much easier swap than the way too common 5.3 or 6.0L small block swap.

    Everybody bad mouths the 8.1L due to lack of aftermarket support but that sucker makes a lot more out of the box stock HP and torque (TORQUE!) especially running on a Marine MEFI-4 controller and calibration than any stock 6.0L ever will. The 8.1L does not require any frame or engine mount modifications either and will fit right in the same exact engine mounts as an old school small block or big block did. In fact, I used my previous 454 exhaust manifolds and engine mount saddles on this 8.1L. No trans mods, no exhaust mods…just unbolt at 454 and bolt in a 8.1L. Pretty painless compaired to the BS of the GEN III small block route. Another bonus is on pre-GMT400 trucks (1988 and older) there is no need to hack up your frame to make room for the exhaust manifold or A/C compressor.

    I agree with the masses that there is a lot more aftermarket support for small blocks if you are in the racing crowd but for what I use this truck for I feel Marine 8.1L HO calibration for 425 HP and 505 lb ft of torque should get the job done just fine in this expedition rig. I am happy with my results as the truck runs like a rapped ape on a poor cal file and will be even better once the cal files are dialed in.

    HarleyDave,

    I am not sure what you said….but I think you said something about running a frame mount pump and a dual tank switch valve. That is interesting. Tell me more about it please…..


    YouTube - 8.1L 2

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Montgomery TX.
    Posts
    2
    I am doing an 8.1 swap right now. Any tips? It is going into an 85 C20 behind a T56. I could use a few pointers if you have them Looks like yours went pretty smooth.
    1985 Chevy C20- 8.1, T56, LS6 clutch and flywheel, Dakota Digital, Restomod in the works. Building to pull my 911's around in style
    1996 911 (993) Twin Turbo- K-24 turbos 18 psi, RS clutch and Flywheel, Straight Fabspeed GT2 By-pass exhaust, H&R cup coil-overs... 11.0 @ 130 qtr.
    2003 911 (996) Carrera Guards Red, Lots of shiny options. Motor sound exhaust, aluminum interior options, Red deviating stitching, Crest everywhere they can be... Nice driver
    2000 Honda Accord V6 Coupe- JL audio everything... 13W7, 1000v2, JL components, JL 6x9's, Alpine double DIN 7 inch, MacIntosh 420 Amp, 2 inch Eibach drop, KYB's, Wide Ovals... Daily Driver

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