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Thread: Ls6 Camshaft Swap

  1. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by randomhero View Post
    Personally, I would have to disagree with you in a few aspects. There are plenty of people who have bigger cams than 220 duration that run great. If he wanted to stick with the stock converter then that would be a different story, but in that case I wouldn't run anything over a 206/212 or similar.
    He said nothing about changing converters. He said nothing about raising the shift points. Going a heck of a lot bigger with a 5.5k shift point is only going to hurt bottom end torque more than increasing HP in the range he's talking.

    Quote Originally Posted by randomhero View Post
    What makes you say go with a higher lift? What makes you say go with a higher lift? If you look at any flow chart for a set of stock 5.3L heads they increasing flow around .450 lift. There is power to be made past that obviously, but very little. You're talking about maybe a 2-3 horse power gain from .550 lift to .600 lift if at all. The heads just don't flow well at that point and it's just a waste and it's added stress on your valvetrain.
    Keeping duration in check while increasing lift typically does not hurt torque as much while increasing HP. I'll have to read back through the posts, there was another guy jumping on, but I thought I read a post about porting, hence my comments. Look at the bottom. If you THINK that going above 0.450" lift is not worth it, then why be in favor of a LS6 cam that 0.550/0.547?

    5.3 LM7
    190/191 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
    0.466" / 0.457" int/exh lift
    114 LSA
    2002+ LS6 cam
    204/218 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
    0.551" / 0.547" int/exh lift
    117 LSA
    GMPP Hot Cam

    218/227 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
    0.525" / 0.525" int/exh lift
    112 LSA

    Quote Originally Posted by randomhero View Post
    As far as the ls6 cam. Even if he's shifting above 6000 he will be fine with the stock length push rods. With that said, I might go with some hardened rods, but the stock LENGTH(7.4) has been proven to work just fine.
    Why does everybody keep commenting about the pushrods? I never said anything about changing pushrods. I said that the stock springs won't handle the LS6 lift/ramp profile. I also said that the Yellow springs are marginal above 6000 rpm with the heavier, non Ti LS6 valves.

    Quote Originally Posted by randomhero View Post
    As far as the hot cam. I am not a big fan of it. The lobes aren't very aggressive and I have yet to see someone break into the 12s with a hot cam(there may be people out there who have done it, I just haven't seen it).
    No the lobes are not incredibly aggressive, but it makes pretty decent power, with factory springs. It will run a LONG time without any spring, cam lobe wear issues. Yes, it's longer duration, but the LSA is pulled 5 degrees in from the LS6 cam. This should help conserve torque.


    Quote Originally Posted by randomhero View Post
    Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I don't do this for a living, but .
    My opinion is based on talking with the guys that designed the LS6 cam and valvetrain. I have gone the gamut of looking at factory cam options, from LS6 to the Hot, to LS7 and LS3, so I asked a lot of the same questions the original poster asked, and relayed the answers I was given.
    Mike
    http://kds-performance.com
    94 Silverado Z71 SCLB 4.8L LR4 Daily Driver
    93 GMC Sierra 2WD LS V8 Swap dun, run, rusted, stripped & junked
    1979 Caprice Coupe - LS Swapped - 11.76@115.8

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by beertestr View Post
    He said nothing about changing converters. He said nothing about raising the shift points. Going a heck of a lot bigger with a 5.5k shift point is only going to hurt bottom end torque more than increasing HP in the range he's talking.
    You're right he didn't say anything about that. That's why I suggested he run something like a 206/212 or something very mild that allows you to run the stock converter. You're also right in that he didn't say anything about changing shift points. Most people change them anyways when they get a custom tune even if they're bone stock. I know most tuners will turn the 1-2 shift up to around 5900-6100 with the stock cam.

    A 206/212 is actually more designed for a 5000 pound truck and I know plenty of people using one in their 5.3s.


    Keeping duration in check while increasing lift typically does not hurt torque as much while increasing HP. I'll have to read back through the posts, there was another guy jumping on, but I thought I read a post about porting, hence my comments. Look at the bottom. If you THINK that going above 0.450" lift is not worth it, then why be in favor of a LS6 cam that 0.550/0.547?
    I never was in favor of the ls6 cam. It's a great turbo cam and a good cheap cam, but it certainly not the best. You will never find me recommending one to someone with an n/a build. I have owned 3 different ls6 cams though and paid $60, $77, and $100 for each of them. That's what makes them so appealing.

    As far as the lift I'm aware of what their lift is. I have an 04 ls6 cam sitting right in front of me actually. See above for why I recommend it(it's cheap). My point was in regards to you saying something about increasing lift. My theory hasn't been proven, but I have seen plenty of flow charts and things don't add up. Running a .600 lift cam on stock 5.3L heads just doesn't seem worth it to me.



    Why does everybody keep commenting about the pushrods? I never said anything about changing pushrods. I said that the stock springs won't handle the LS6 lift/ramp profile. I also said that the Yellow springs are marginal above 6000 rpm with the heavier, non Ti LS6 valves.
    I thought you had said something in regards to the pushrods. Maybe I read it wrong


    No the lobes are not incredibly aggressive, but it makes pretty decent power, with factory springs. It will run a LONG time without any spring, cam lobe wear issues. Yes, it's longer duration, but the LSA is pulled 5 degrees in from the LS6 cam. This should help conserve torque.
    If by factory springs you're talking about the ls6 springs then quite a few cams will work with those springs. There are plenty of guys running the Tr220 with ls6 springs. That cam has proven to take people well into the 12s.



    My opinion is based on talking with the guys that designed the LS6 cam and valvetrain. I have gone the gamut of looking at factory cam options, from LS6 to the Hot, to LS7 and LS3, so I asked a lot of the same questions the original poster asked, and relayed the answers I was given.
    It's all just a matter of opinion. I don't have the time or means to do the individual testing. I will say that your ideas go a bit against the grain(not that there's anything wrong with that).

    Personally though, all things considered, I'd rather a custom ground cam from Comp or similar spec'ed for a 5000 pound truck rather than a stock cam for a 3300 pound car with a larger engine. Either way, it is an interested discussion, and it's refreshing to hear a different opinion.

  3. #43
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    Jul 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by duc1256 View Post
    Another quick question. Would a stock ls6 intake be worth it while I doing the cam swap. I have a great chance to get one for $75 with 35k on it, bare. This would be added to better compliment the cam, possibly lower the rpm of peak hp?
    I would check the part number on it first. For $75 it's probably an LS1 intake. LS6 intakes seem to go for $200-$300 or so. Just 'buyer beware'.
    85 GMC Sierra Classic SWB
    5.3L / 4L60E / 3.42

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by glock35ipsc View Post
    I would check the part number on it first. For $75 it's probably an LS1 intake. LS6 intakes seem to go for $200-$300 or so. Just 'buyer beware'.
    Noth'n wrong with that. As long as it came off of a 1999 thru 2004 LS1 engine. These years used the LS6 intakes. But like you said, check the part number to be sure.
    Last edited by LS1GMCTruck; 09-05-2009 at 05:07 PM.

  5. #45
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    LS6 intakes only came on in late 2001 and 2002 Fbodies and the LS6 Corvettes or 2001 and newer Corvettes. You can tell that its a LS6 intake because it will have a flat ribbed bottom.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  6. #46
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    the yellow springs will be fine with stock valves...you do not need the hollow stem LS6 valves...

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat View Post
    LS6 intakes only came on in late 2001 and 2002 Fbodies and the LS6 Corvettes or 2001 and newer Corvettes. You can tell that its a LS6 intake because it will have a flat ribbed bottom.
    Thats right Red, you are correct on that.

  8. #48
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    Aug 2009
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    Yes it is a Ls6 intake manifold, perfectly flat on bottom. I just know the guy, great deal. Would it help lower the torque in the rpm range or raise it? Can I reuse my stock fuel rail. I should be able to flex the coolant lines to make them fit, correct?

  9. #49
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    you will lose a little lower end tq, I have an ls2 intake and don't miss the bottom end since I have a 3500 stall. As for fuel rails, you'll have to modify your stock one tremendously to work or just buy billets from Edelbrock, about $80. Now if you have the truck injectors they might be too short to work the LS6 intake, never heard of truck injectors on a LS1/LS6 intake.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  10. #50
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    Aug 2009
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    About how much torque/hp will be gained with the cai, cat back exhaust, ls6 intake manifold with stock 5.3l throttle body and ls6 camshaft with the Nelson tune for these add ons and 93 octane and 4 degrees of ignition advance? Just a rough estimate so I can get an idea. Thanks, Nicholas

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