Viper Alarm Install - Need some pointers

[NAREJEPP]

Another thing I just thought of...

What's the best way to mount the shock sensor for the system?

I know it's supposed to be mounted to bare metal, I'm assuming metal on the body of the truck would be best, but does it matter where?

[dropem]

I would just recommend mounting it to the dash frame where the under dash screws into.

[NAREJEPP]

Ok, I'm stuck.

Got most of the wiring done, and am at the testing stage.

I'm having 2 problems. One is that the door locks do not engage/disengage with the arming/disarming of the system. Looking at the manual, the output wires for locking and unlocking from the viper unit are small, and do not supply the 12VDC that I need at the BCM where I hooked them up. They are hooked up to the first (left side) BCM harness. the unlock output from the viper to the white (A3) wire on the harness (labeled: Power Door Lock Relay Feed - Unlock Coil). The Lock output is connected to the light blue (A4) wire in the BCM harness (labeled: Power Door Lock Relay Feed - Lock Coil)

The only other possibility I can see is on the second (middle) BCM harness, there is a wire (A4) labeled: Power Door Lock Relay Control - LF. Any help here would be great.


My second problem is with the remote start.

I've hooked up a tach signal wire, as well as changed the engine checking method and still have the same results. The truck will crank, and just as it starts, it dies. I get the same result if I turn the key on and try to activate the remote start. If I use the key to start the truck, it starts right away and runs just like normal.

The only thing I can think is that it has something to do with my Remote Start harness. My wiring is as follows.

Viper---------Truck
H3/1 (PINK) Ignition 1 Input/Output----------A2 (PINK) Fused Ignition Positive Voltage
H3/2(RED/WHITE) Fused Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Input 87-----------A4(ORANGE) Fused Battery Positive Voltage
H3/3(ORANGE) Accessory Output--------------(ORANGE) Ignition Positive Voltage
H3/4(VIOLET) Starter Output-----------------------Truck side of starter crank wire
H3/5(GREEN) Starter Input-------------------------Starter side of starter crank wire
H3/6(RED) Fused Ignition 1 Input-------------------B1(RED) Fused Battery Positive Voltage
H3/7(PINK/WHITE) Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Output------------(ORANGE) Ignition Positive Voltage
H3/8(PINK/BLACK) Flex Relay input 87A key side (if required) of Flex Relay-------------Not Connected
H3/9(RED/BLACK) Fused Accessory/Starter Input--------------B1(RED) Fused Battery Positive Voltage

Also related to the remote start

H2/9(VIOLET/WHITE) Tachometer Input-----------------(BLACK/WHITE) Injector Signal (I wired this to the signal wire of one of the fuel injectors, just not sure which number the injector is)
H2/17(BROWN) Brake Shutdown Input-------------------Wired to brake pedal switch (gets 12V when the brake pedal is pressed)
H2/18(BLACK/WHITE) Neutral Safety Input---------------Common Ground

I've been using the install manual plus the following link to determine some of my connections.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=65742

Also, all connections are soldered, so everything should have a good connection.

Any help would be great, I'm gonna keep playing with it today, and see what I can come up with.
Thanks

PS, can anyone tell me where I could find the controller for the factory alarm? As of now, there are 2 wires on the viper unit ( oem alarm disarm output and OEM alarm arm output) that are not connected. The guide shows using a relay with each wire to send the 12V signal to each wire (the disarm wire and arm wire) of the factory alarm system. I just haven't found where to hook those up.

[NAREJEPP]

bump

anybody?

[T-Stark]

Had the same alarm on my truck, after about 4 months the 2way feature quit working

[Slowcrewcab]

Alot of the door locks had to have a relay added to them I I remember right. And on the starting does it start then die or almost starts while cranking?

[NAREJEPP]

Alot of the door locks had to have a relay added to them I I remember right. And on the starting does it start then die or almost starts while cranking?

Hard to tell the difference here. It fires like it is going to run (like if I was using the key, I would let off of it) but then doesn't actually run. That is when I set it to no engine checking, and it is just running off a programmed crank time.

Using the Tach signal, it will fire the same way, not run, but keep cranking until I shut it back off. I'm thinking that it is something to do with the factory security or something like that. If I use the key, it fires right up, no problems.


Anyway, I talked to a friend of mine, and he knows a guy that works at a different audio/alarm shop here in town. I called and talked to him, and he is double checking my wiring for me...(basically for free)
I should get it back from him in good shape, and I'll post what the problem was, and how he fixed it.

[dropem]

I believe on a viper system it should be able to trigger your door looks straight out of the brain of the alarm. AS far as the truck Almost starting it is your VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) kicking in because it is not seeing the electrical resistance of the key cylinder being turned with a key in it and it is shutting off the fuel pump.

Here is how to disable that.



AS far as the door locks what wires are you tapping into and where are they located?

[NAREJEPP]

Ok, I got everything sorted out.

The guy that fixed me up said that I had everything right, I just hadn't bypassed the VATS (as mentioned above) and the door locks were trying to trigger on a negative charge instead of a positive one. He swapped out my bypass module for one that was set up with the right door lock configuration. Not sure what kind it is, but apparently the other bypass module that I picked up was less specific to my truck year and model, and to make it work I would have had to run a pair of relays (one for each door).

Thanks again to those who helped out, glad to be done with it.

Now I'm going to start shopping for a new audio setup!