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Thread: 1992 4X4 Blazer Build

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    No leaks, I put two hose clamps on all connections. I use the smooth sided hose clamps, not the worm type. The type I use has a bolt that goes through it to tighten the hose.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Atlanta Ga
    Posts
    692
    Quote Originally Posted by Minime168 View Post


    Got you a picture today. That's how it goes
    makes perfect sense now!!! awesome...so i need one more connector for the line going into the fuel line to the motor. so those connectors basically just snap onto the filter?
    96 2 Door Tahoe 4wd / 5.3 Swap / CAI / Tune / Pacesetter LTs / Magnaflow / LED Dash / Novak A/C Bracket /


    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...ders-pics.html

  3. #93
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Galveston, Tx
    Posts
    677
    Having a return on the intake just makes it so much simpler

    95 C1500 LM7, built 4L60e, Circle D 3200, LT's, Nelson tune, open differential, 3.42, and LS1 e-fans. Tractionless

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Galveston, Texas
    Posts
    225
    Quote Originally Posted by myzterray View Post
    makes perfect sense now!!! awesome...so i need one more connector for the line going into the fuel line to the motor. so those connectors basically just snap onto the filter?
    Precisely. Push until it clicks. Kinda hard but make sure it clicks. And nah. I'd much rather only run one fuel line to the engine bay

    Btw autozone and all them stock the 3/8 push on connector.
    Last edited by Minime168; 11-03-2011 at 10:16 PM.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Galveston, Tx
    Posts
    677
    Quote Originally Posted by Minime168 View Post
    Precisely. Push until it clicks. Kinda hard but make sure it clicks. And nah. I'd much rather only run one fuel line to the engine bay
    I don't have to run any line to the engine bay...it comes with 2 from the factory

    95 C1500 LM7, built 4L60e, Circle D 3200, LT's, Nelson tune, open differential, 3.42, and LS1 e-fans. Tractionless

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Galveston, Texas
    Posts
    225
    Quote Originally Posted by silverado_lover View Post
    I don't have to run any line to the engine bay...it comes with 2 from the factory
    Well true if you use the stock lines. Makes sense.

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Atlanta Ga
    Posts
    692
    hey since you converted to 2wd what did you remove from the front end? did u remove the front end differential? i want to remove the front differential from my truck..im thinking if i get some 2wd a arms, coils and spindles then drop the front diff and drive shaft if it will work? then later i can drop the transfer case swap the trans and drive shaft.

    heres the 2wd front suspension. only thing i dont see are shocks.
    96 2 Door Tahoe 4wd / 5.3 Swap / CAI / Tune / Pacesetter LTs / Magnaflow / LED Dash / Novak A/C Bracket /


    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...ders-pics.html

  8. #98
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Galveston, Tx
    Posts
    677
    The shocks go up through the middle of the coil spring

    95 C1500 LM7, built 4L60e, Circle D 3200, LT's, Nelson tune, open differential, 3.42, and LS1 e-fans. Tractionless

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Broken Bow, OK
    Posts
    1,434
    The 2wd a-arms won't interchange with the 4x4 ones.

    You could remove the front diff, but you have to leave the ends of the axles in the wheel bearing or they will collapse within driving a matter of feet.

    I have heard people say you can use the dished 5.3 flexplate with the spacer on the transmission side, but I've never tried it that way.

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Atlanta Ga
    Posts
    692
    Quote Originally Posted by PitchBlackC3 View Post
    The 2wd a-arms won't interchange with the 4x4 ones.

    You could remove the front diff, but you have to leave the ends of the axles in the wheel bearing or they will collapse within driving a matter of feet.

    I have heard people say you can use the dished 5.3 flexplate with the spacer on the transmission side, but I've never tried it that way.
    yea i was just reading some stuff on fsc.com i guess the frame is different. now when i drop the front differential how do i know what exactly to leave? how much of the assembly should i remove. heres apic i found on fsc that kinda shows it.


    also when you say "transmission side" im not sure exactly what you mean.
    Last edited by myzterray; 11-04-2011 at 03:52 PM.
    96 2 Door Tahoe 4wd / 5.3 Swap / CAI / Tune / Pacesetter LTs / Magnaflow / LED Dash / Novak A/C Bracket /


    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...ders-pics.html

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