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Thread: Lifter Dropped..... HELP please

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    West Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmtruc View Post
    I guess we've always been lucky, never used dowels during an install, we had to use pen magnets to hold up a few loose ones.
    Before you pull the cam, keep the pushrods in place, spin the cam several times, none of the pushrods should move again after a full rotation of the cam, if any do then that lifter needs a pen magnet.
    Also, swap the cam as fast as possible, don't let the lifters sit for a long period of time.

    You might be able to pull the oil pan, hopefully, which is no biggy.
    Thats exactly what I did my first time, I checked rotation and left the rods in to see if they stay up in the plastic retainers. I know Comp Cams or someone sells those rods with their cams but I dont know if they sell them seperate. Instead of circular they are triangular. I need some of those to have peace of mind when I do these jobs.
    RUN WAT U BRUNG!!!!

  2. #12
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    Jan 2010
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    spanaway wa
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    thanks for all the help, im working on it right now, im wondering about removeing the intake and head, what do i need to look out for and i need advice on removing the intake, do i need to pull the injectors or will they lift out with the intake and for the heads whats the torque specs and any help and tips would be great. i have never done a cam swap before and now i get to basically take the whole engine apart so it is a blessing but it still sucks.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99silveradodude View Post
    thanks for all the help, im working on it right now, im wondering about removeing the intake and head, what do i need to look out for and i need advice on removing the intake, do i need to pull the injectors or will they lift out with the intake and for the heads whats the torque specs and any help and tips would be great. i have never done a cam swap before and now i get to basically take the whole engine apart so it is a blessing but it still sucks.
    Intake is easy. Pop the injectors out and fuel rail. First relieve the pressure before doin that or else you will get a nasty squirt and may get in ur eye. No need to take heads off. Also look at ur knock sensors to see if they are rusted. You may need new ones since you are already in there.
    RUN WAT U BRUNG!!!!

  4. #14
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    how do i pop the injectors out, will they just come out with a good tug or do i need special tools. also for the fuel lines that run behind the intake do i just disconnect them or leave them alone.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99silveradodude View Post
    how do i pop the injectors out, will they just come out with a good tug or do i need special tools. also for the fuel lines that run behind the intake do i just disconnect them or leave them alone.
    I just use a flat head screwdriver. They are held in by a o-ring wedged in but there are reatining bolts you must loosen and take off. With them off you can inspect them also.
    RUN WAT U BRUNG!!!!

  6. #16
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    Jan 2010
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    so i am a little worried to break something, i took the two bolts off for the fuel rail, are the reataining bolts the ones that are kind of under the intake that you have to use a long extension to get to. also the injectors seem to be held in by some silver retainer clips do i need to remove those also.
    Last edited by 99silveradodude; 06-24-2010 at 01:33 PM.

  7. #17
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    May 2008
    Location
    Round Rock, TX
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    REALLY.....You don't need to remove the fuel rails from the intake. Just disconnect the fuel lines from the rails....And No need to pull a head? How are you going to get to the Lifters then?

  8. #18
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    spanaway wa
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    ooo sweet i didnt know if the injectors had to come out or if they are part of the intake assembly. and yes im pulling the heads, do i need to place bolts and gaskets or can i just reuse the stock ones. im in a tight money stop this project costed me double what i thought, but when has any project not.

  9. #19
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    May 2008
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    When you get the intake off you can look at the intake gaskets and tell if they need replacing. If the oring is still raised above the plastic no need to replace. If it is flat with the plastic then replace them to be safe. I would just pull which ever side head off to begin with. No need for both at this time. You will need a new head gasket and head bolts. Head bolts are not reusable.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
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    Your 99 probably has the old style intake gaskets, the new ones are green i think.
    Get your head bolts from Full Service, only $35 for a box of them.
    Use the stock mls head gasket, don't get cheap there.
    When tightening the bolts, go to ls1howto.com, be sure to put a line on the head bolt so you can torque them correctly.
    Use a new manifold exhaust gasket, oem.
    torque rockers to 22-24, with a dot of loctite on the threads.

    just a few things off the top of my head, good luck.

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