take off the brakes first...every 8 lbs of rotating mass = .1 in the 1/4
normal weight takes almost 100lbs to do the same thing!
take off the brakes first...every 8 lbs of rotating mass = .1 in the 1/4
normal weight takes almost 100lbs to do the same thing!
blown transmissions are about as useful as 97% of the guys on this forum
2006 extended cab, 6.0 swap, full bolt ons SOLD
2011 ECSB, 6.2, 6 spd, 3.73, 5" lift, 33" nitto, limo tint, debadged, volant CAI, muffler delete, black bear tune 14.0 @ 98 on the 33'sSOLD
2007 TBSS AWD, cam, stall, built trans, N2OSOLD
2006 RCSB cammed LQ9, full exhaust, 3200 stall, 2-4 drop
49 Ford F1
355 chevy / turbo 350 / 12 bolt posi / camaro subframed
I'm actually not 100% sure. I would assume the drive wheels, but fronts probably have a ratio closer to 8lbs--> .1 then 100lbs-->.1 (only say this b/c drag cars still put super light skinnys in front).
Back when I was all about the fwd v6 racing, alot of guys with grand prixs were swapping REAR brakes with grand ams (alot lighter) and shedding .1-.2 off the 1/4.
blown transmissions are about as useful as 97% of the guys on this forum
can't forget a turbo
really pricy though
stage 1
1. knn 2. corvette servo 3. power fans 4. weight reduction 5. live tune, with this you should have better performance and better fuel economy.
stage 2
1.cam 2. pi triple disk 3. 410 gears and locker 4. power pully 5.nos 6. built trany
stage 3
1. lq 6.0, 2. 42 lbs injectors,3. 90mm throtle body, 4. intech upgraded. edelbrock or fast, 5. walboro fuel pump
stage 4
ls7 stroked out to a 441, cal tracks or 4 link suspencion and ajustable shocks
Last edited by Gladiator 6.0; 10-25-2009 at 01:45 PM.
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GLADIATOR 6.0 2007 nnbs chevy 13.2 1/4mi. busting my drive shaft at 106 mph before the finish line
CHEATER 6.0 2000 gmc xcab lq9 fully bolt on 12.52 motor and 11.62 n2o.
http://youtu.be/UV-I1mlKcTI
longtubes-i paid 400 for em and gained 22hp and 15rwtq
cai-not sure i gained much till i got the longtubes
e-fans - i built my own setup ringing in a grand total of about 100 dollars
after those three anything else just build horsepower phenominally
three important things! more air in, more air out, less rotating mass (i.e. clutch fan vs e-fans)
those three things can make huge differences once oyu get those out of the way, you can move on to making real power, because without those three, your mods wont make their potential power
[IMG]https://images.app.goo.gl/XLfskemekXBo5VfS7/IMG]
www.tjc.edu
nice 22 hp is pretty good, also what do you guys think about ebay turbos? They are most likely junk but i had to ask, can you get a turbo kit with all the fittings and everything short of the turbo and buy a nice turbo instead?
yeah you can, doubt that ebay has a many truck fitting turbo kits (i.e. log manifolds) on there. If you are going turbo better have a nice budget. IF you want a kit go with allen's new front mount. 4800 that includes tune, fuel pump, injectors. That's the only total kit i know of. I also know that i have more than than in my set up.
Name: Mark,
God created turbo lag so nitrous trucks could have a chance.
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post274877
cheap and fairly cheap upgrades....
Intake
exhaust
LT headers
Tune
Gears
then:
Cam and springs
stall
Throttle body
more:
spray some sqeeze
turbo or magna
put that all on a 6.0 and then your talkin!
2009 CHEVROLET 1500 with a MONSTER 4.8 between the frame rails!!
Tuned by LSX Powersports ~ 4.10 ~ JBA Shorties ~ 4" Inlet/Outlet Spintech ~ Airaid Coldair
CST 3.5" Spindles ~ Camburg Upper Control Arms ~ 2.5" CCM ~ FFR Tie Rods
Full Throttle Suspension 3" Lift Blocks ~ Soft 8s wrapped in LT285/70/17 Silent Armors