Getting ready to do the swap... need some feedback

OK, the truck will be paid off within a few months. SO... I am getting ready for the LS1... once the truck is paid off it will be a matter of weeks as i get the stuff. Its a 1996 Reg Cab 1500 4.3 (orig. engine and tranny with 204k) incase you forgot. Heres the list I came up with off the top of my head:

- LS1 Engine itself w/ all accessories (low mileage probably around 00-01 model)
- 4l60E (should I build it up some??? what in particular should i focus on? just a side thought will a 4l80e bolt up? i know they are supposed to be a lot stronger. no t56 id like to keep it auto b/c it will be a daily driver.)
- new Driveshaft (tom woods??? what do you recommened? ive heard of woods d/s's busting though... ive heard the plates will need to be shortened also???)
- Radiator (what kind should I go with?)
- Harness (from dynatech of course)
- Motor mounts (from gmcwantsls1)
- Ignition setup (any good aftermarket you recommened? MSD maybe??)
- PCM tuning (from allen??)
- LS1 electric fans
- aftermkt intake?? airraid? k&n? what'll work?
- fuel pump? stock wont cut it right? will i need new fuel lines?
- VATS bypass (i dont even know what this is but im pretty sure ill need it)

other things i thought about:
corvette rail covers (the red ones that look cool)
true dual 50 series flowmasters (that might be too loud i wanna keep it a fairly quiet rumble)
tranny and oil cooler (is this needed?? they are just cheap enough, around $50, while everything is out do you think it would be worth it to put one in???)
rear gears?? (upgrade from stock?? is it needed? what is good for gas mileage?)
aftermkt thermostat???
plugs and wires??? (do you think recommened oem plugs are better or should i go with something aftermarket?)
escalade cluster (the one that goes to 120mph) - there is a guy on fullsizechevy who put one from a 99 i think in his 95 tahoe 383 and it works fine... any idea if there would be much rewiring going from my v6 cluster to a v8 or will the computer just send the right signal?
any good hi-amp alternators that'll work for the ls1?
a/c setup (doesnt allen make a bracket? how much? what if i skip the ac for now how do i take it out?)

OK! so... what else will i run into? What should i be prepared for? any more tips suggestions or ideas? i will be doing this myself (with the help of a friend who is a mechanic hopefully). Ill have access to a lift and all the tools i need so I think im all set. this is gonna be a daily driver, i want it to be fast, but gas mileage and reliablility come before a second at the track. any additional mods or things you would recommened? Alright then you guys have fun answering all my questions for the next few hours :laugh: Thanks!!!

I used the factory 4.3 radiator . you can probably use a 350 factory radiator . the vats will be in the harness from dynatach.

Hey, thanks for the update, it's nice to see you're moving along on your project.

-4l60E: If it's out, it might be easier to just take it to a shop and have a shift kit put in, however , i think the stock one will hold up just fine until you get everything done and the truck running. Plus the tranny doesn't need to be removed to install a kit.
-Driveshaft: I've had three of them blow up due to critical speed, my final shaft is made by denny's driveshaft and it's held up fine, lots of money, but no more headaches.
-Radiator: You should be able to use the stock rad, of course like he said above, a v8 rad. will work, i went with a Howe Radiator, www.alumrad.com
-Ignition: Your stock on will be fine, at the most some NGk's and some aftermarket wires.
-Tuning: try www.nelsonperformance.com hahaha, thanks for the business
-Intake: stock airbox with a custom air tube and kn filter, that should work and look nice and stock under the hood,
-Fuel: stock lines will work just fine, just cut the GM ends off and use some rubber line to tap into the fuel rail. Not sure if you're using the truck intake or LS1????????The fuel pump won't cut it, buy an aftermarket 255lpg pump and it will go right in place of the other one. You need 60psi.
-If you go with some tuning, I can turn that off, Veh. Anti Theft Sys.
-Rails would look nice

-Exhasut: I have the 40delta flows and my truck is quiet during idle and normal driving.
-Get the tranny cooler, b&m is the best, the others suck, just from exp.
-Gears will get you through the isntall, do those later, unless you can afford it.
-I removed my ac bracket and ac, i didn't like how much power it pulled, i'm going to pull my engine and cut and box the frame so it's in the stock location.

With this setup you'll be running fast and getting over 20mpg,

Great Project,

allen

OK that help a lot... alright now;
Which dennys driveshaft should i go with? i know their are many different models... which one and how much did it run you total?
as far as the tranny... ill probably just get that with the ls1 i get so i dont have to rebuild mine... shift kit? like b&m electrionic shift kit? anything else to build it up?
which howe radiator did you go with?
how'd you make your intake?
"Not sure if you're using the truck intake or LS1????????" watcha mean here?
b&m tranny cooler? which model in particular? so you dont think oil cooler is necessary?
yea i will prolly end up doing gears later... what should i go with?

"-I removed my ac bracket and ac, i didn't like how much power it pulled, i'm going to pull my engine and cut and box the frame so it's in the stock location."
how will you do this and whats involved??

whew.
well man im tired but ill prolly think of more later. thanks for all your help!!!

about how much power DID it pull allen?

Shaft: I want with the HD Aluminum one, it is a mix of aluminum and a stronger metal, the Lt aluminum one is less expensive, but weaker, however, niether of these shafts are weak. For my ds and 1350HD pinion yoke, I think I paid about $580 OUCH :cry: , but you know , it was worth it becuase i stopped breaking shafts and that's pretty dangerous at 80+mph.
Tranny: Give joes a call at JAG and he can set you up with a nice shift kit and servo, he'll have a price for you , it' s the TransgoShiftkit. I have the B&M switch on mine and it sux, lol, never use it, never.
Rad: Measure your rad and get the same size as your stock, mine was the 342E and was $242.
Intake: mine is a poor design right now, it's just 4" tubin, elbow and a long ass kn filter on the end, i bought all the parts and clamps from here http://shop.airflowonline.com
Cooler: no oil cooler is needed, but you def. need a trans cooler: Transmission cooler - B&M 28,000GVW-BMM-70266-1/2" threads
AC: lotsofhp and a couple of other guys have more experience than I do on cutting thier frame, I've looked and it doesn't look hard, make some measurements and take note of the ac location and any interference and make it, but that part out of your crossmember/frame and box it in. seems easy enuff.

Sleeper: not sure how much, but i hated the damn thing so much cause it pulled lots of hp, especially with the ac on, back to the drawing board.

later,

allen

So you don't think a steel or nos ready driveshaft is neccessary?

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Originally posted by juztyn@Jan 8 2004, 05:59 PM
So you don't think a steel or nos ready driveshaft is neccessary?

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I think it depends how much hp and tq you're going to be making, so far it's held up to my mid 12's. If you don't plan on going that route, go for it, if you are, get a steel one, BUT, the weight of a driveshaft also determinces critical speed, as does the diameter and length.

allen

Just an update i am in the process of aquiring a few parts for the swap... going good. Just curious allen what is the general procedure for taking out the engine/tranny/driveshaft, etc., etc...? I will have a mechanic helping me but id just like to know. Thanks...

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Originally posted by juztyn@Feb 1 2004, 11:33 PM
Just an update i am in the process of aquiring a few parts for the swap... going good. Just curious allen what is the general procedure for taking out the engine/tranny/driveshaft, etc., etc...? I will have a mechanic helping me but id just like to know. Thanks...

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That's awesome, when you getting started on it, you'll love the power, the guy I just did this for is always calling and letting me know he's cleaning up the streets with his, lol, and it's only a peg leg without a built trans :sad:

Hope this helps:

-disconnect battery
-remove all that just attatching to the engine; air kit, wiring/harness, water hoses, etc.
-remove starter
-remove tc bolts
-remove bell housing bolts (it won't break apart, the engine and trans will stay together)
-support trans
-engine mounts
-remove intake
-remove steering shaft
-engine mounts, the long bolt side that is on the frame.

get you one of those adjustable engine remover thingys, you crank the long bolt and it tilts the engine for you , makes it a lot easier.
Those steps aren't necessarily in order, but it's a start.

good luck,

allen

Thanks... im just getting some small stuff right now... that way right when the truck gets paid off, all ill need is the engine and tranny for that sucker and ill be ready (well so to speak i know i will need a few things). I am still debating on the driveshaft... denny's nos ready is cheaper than hd aluminum, plus the steel shafts have the break or twist replacement warranty??? im not sure... and do you know of any good aftermarket alternators for the ls1? thanks!

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(farmtruc &#064; Jan 8 2004, 08&#58;22 AM) [snapback]8948[/snapback]</div>

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Cooler: no oil cooler is needed, but you def. need a trans cooler: Transmission cooler -

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How do I bypass the oil cooler lines on my LQ4 to run without an oil cooler?

There is a standard cover that bolts on there to return the oil directly to the engine. You can buy it at GM for cheap.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; May 2 2007, 04&#58;15 PM) [snapback]92123[/snapback]</div>

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There is a standard cover that bolts on there to return the oil directly to the engine. You can buy it at GM for cheap.
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That sounds perfect. Do you know what it&#39;s called? What should I ask the parts guy for?

Thanks&#33; :smile: :wave:

not trying to hijack, and juztyn might wonder too, but will the walbro inline pumps pull enough pressure through a lower pressure stocker. ya know so we wouldnt have to pull the stocker out.... :D