5.3 LM7 powered '97 BMW M3 sedan!

[ThumpinZ]

keep it coming, we're going this way with my buddy's 97 e36 coupe m3. just haven't seen any info on it yet.

[BRAAP]

ThumpinZ,
Over on http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/index.php , scroll down to the "Engine conversions" sub forum, there are a handful of V-8 converted BMW E36 cars that recently finished up and are on the road. Currently 4 kits available for the LSx conversion, 5th one in progress.


Update;
Engine is still sitting beside the car though I did get the low pressure brake line from the reservoir to the ABS module finished and connected. Ran a 3/8” hard line across the firewall with continual slope so any air in this large of line will naturally float up to the master cylinder reservoir or the bleeder block I fabbed and attached tot he ABS module. This bleeder block has two fittings that spaced out perfectly and directly plugs into the ABS module replacing those black plastic fittings. The Bleeder block is hollowed out with an open cavity at the top with a bleeder screw to seal it. Line out the bottom is 10mm with a small section of the 10mm BMW brake hose joining to the 3/8” line and the bleeder block.

Diagram showing the slope and relative elevations;


Low pressure line is lightly highlighted in GREEN;


Bleeder block, (excuse the crude work and finish, losing ambition to take my time and make it nice, just want it done)!


Bleeder block installed in the ABS module;




For those relocating their ABS modules, both of those black plastic fittings have the same size orifice opening even though they have two different size hoses, for some odd reason. As such, you are not confined to use 10mm for the larger one. Other European cars with ABS modules have similar fittings and at different angles, 45 degrees and straight show below, which may help in routing those low pressure lines.




Till the next update, hopefully before winter sets in, happy motoring...

[BRAAP]

Between doc visits, a trip out to Verona/Madison WI, (went the Packers-Bills game on the 19th and visited the EAA Air Venture museum while there), enrolling in some A-CAD classes, etc not much progress has been made on the car. There hasn’t been much to do any how as the headers are still being sorted out.
I think my last substantial update was back in April or May? My how time flies watching grass grow. Once the headers get sorted and finally built, then it’ll be gangbusters to get it on the road, probably wont stop to update the build thread till it’s on the road and I can breathe again…
For now, just another pittly little update.

Started in on the wiring, reconfiguring pin out and inserting pins back in the circular BMW connectors I picked up for the ABS relocation, (just made and extension harness, didn't have to cut or splice the car or ABS module), in the middle of routing the LSx harness.

Thank you to Pzary for his advice I spent a couple days building a cheesy little PCM desktop tuning bench, now I can access and tune the PCM outside of the car, on the bench/desktop. Made a couple adjustments to the PCM tonight including Throttle Cracker, Throttle Follower, fuel cut parameters, will be massaging the VE table and ignition map to better match the Vette cam, etc. (PCM is '02 Avalanche), bench tuned a few others PCMs as well for other swappers, (delete VATS, skip shift, set tach signal, tire size/gearing, hi-lo speed cooling fan set points, etc).

PCM tuning bench extracting data;







BMW Oil pressure sender is installed on the LSx. Spent more time scratching my head with hand full of fittings trying to figure out how I am going to do this. Almost just drilled and tapped the 16x1.5mm adapter to directly accept the 12x1.5mm oil pressure sender, but couldn’t quite bring myself to do that as the wall thickness would be quite thin and the last thing I want is to shear the head off the adapter leaving its threads in the block of an assembled engine. Using another 1/8 NPT fitting I drilled the female end and tapped for 12x1.5mm to accept the BMW oil pressure sender for the idiot light, robbed the LSx oil pressure sender crush gasket and installed the mess.
There has to be an oil pressure switch out here from another OE application that is 16x1.5 mm threads. Sure would make that a whole lot easier.







While watching the Grass grow I thought I’d play a little more with my 3M Di-NOC faux carbon fiber, (used it on the PCM tuning bench), and covered the aluminum plug cover for the EGR port on the LS1 intake. Don’t like the shiny screw head, may have to faux anodize that, black sharpie.

[inovermyhead]

Great build. This has really got me wanting to do an older Jag/LSx once my truck is completed.

[BRAAP]

There are a couple Jags for sale locally that I pass on the way into town, been tempted to stop and look. My oldest daughter is in need of a car, stock SBC or even 4.3 V-6, (low performance version) in one of those Jags would be nice for her, Dad would feel better knowing she was in larger car vs tiny little coffin.

Shameless plug.
Jag V-8 conversion kit/bits/parts;
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/JaguarParts_Order.html

Jag V-8 conversion manual;
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Jaguar_V-8.html

[BRAAP]

Quick update and info on the GM Fuel tank pressure sensor.

Wiring is approx 95% complete, only couple connections to make, prime the oil system with the remote oil primer then fire it up.


In short, you must use the GM fuel tank pressure sensor with GM PCM to control the BMW evap canister vent and either the BMW or GM canister purge valve and you can NOT use a GM MAP sensor as fuel tank pressure sensor.

Specifics for us geeks;
Using and old PC power supply with its 5 volt DC power source I was able to test a GM fuel tank pressure sensor and the BMW fuel tank pressure sensor to see if the BMW sensor could be retained. In short, NO, it cannot be used with GM PCM. The BMW pressure sensor and GM fuel tank pressure sensor are reversed in their Voltage-to-pressure readings so it will not work properly. In using the GM PCM to control the evap canister and fuel tank purge valves, you must also use the GM fuel tank pressure sensor.

Also, you can NOT use a GM MAP sensor for this purpose. I have seen information on the net saying the GM MAP and GM Fuel Pressure sensor are the same, that is incorrect! Those claims are guesses, NOT tested or measured. After testing them side by side, (applying 5 volt and ground, measuring the signal while applying vacuum and pressure), they are not even close! They may look sort of similar, even have the same sealing grommet, but they are NOT the same nor interchangeable.
GM MAP sensors;
Testing the GM MAP sensors, my findings matched exactly what is found online. Registers atmospheric pressure and below i.e. vacuum. At atmospheric pressure, (WOT or engine off), voltage is 5 volt. Pull 5" of vacuum on the MAP sensor and the voltage drops to 4v. Pull another 5", (10" of vacuum total), voltage drops to 3 v. Pull another 5", (15" total), voltage drops to 2v. Pull another 5" of vacuum, (20" inches of vacuum total) and the voltage drops to 1v.

GM Fuel tank pressure sensor;
The fuel tank pressure sensor visually looks sort of similar to the MAP, has the same silicone sealing grommet but the MAP connector will not fit. For what it's worth, the crank position and Cam position sensor connector does fit the fuel tank pressure sensor. This sensor also registers pressure above atmospheric, but only barely and is MUCH more sensitive registering minute pressures below and above atmospheric i.e. vacuum and pressure. Of greater importance is its voltage to pressure values are reverse of the MAP sensor.
At atmospheric pressure, the fuel tank pressure sensor delivers 1.5 volts. As vacuum is applied, voltage rise is linear to 5 volts at approx. 1” or 2" of vacuum. My vacuum gauge is not accurate enough at that low of vacuum for an accurate measurement. Using your mouth you can easily max out the sensor with light suction or light pressure. Blow into it the voltage continues to drop below 1.5 down to minimum of .23v, I guess that to be pressure to be approx. 1-2 inches of pressure, not even half a PSI. Just blowing across the opening the voltage swings, this sensor is very sensitive.

[elgordopaz]

love the build dude first time i seen this swap done on a bmw keep up the good work.should haul ass

[BRAAP]

Short version, fired up the engine today! WOOHOO!

Long version.
Built a DIY LSx engine oil primer, (air actuated piston forces 4 qt’s of fresh oil in to the engine oil galleys via the port above the oil filter), worked out perfect pressurizing the oil galleys with fresh oil, as well back filling to the pump. Just cranking the engine over on the starter with the coils/injectors disabled works fine, I wanted fresh oil to the bearing before spinning the crank.
After a few electrical checks to verify wring was correct, no back feeds were going to keep the start engaged, pressurized the fuel system, etc. Then bumped the starter and the engine immediately came to life on all 8 cylinders, WOO HOO!

Here are some pics of the oil system primer and video of the start up.





Flames!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSnn9ZV1dmI

As a gag we clamped an old dead Turbo onto one of the exhaust Mani’s, it would barely spin, (boost gauge sitting on the intake)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x73R-n9-6vQ

[BRAAP]

Update with wonderful news.
JTR and Sanderson Headers are getting close to releasing their E36 LSx long tube headers. Approx ETA for release of production units is 2-3 months.
These pictures are of the Prototypes. Steel, long tube, 1 3/4" primaries, 3" collector, V-band connection, and they clear the stock steering shaft.
These prototypes have been given the green light from which Sanderson will build fixtures/jigs around for production units. Before any headers will be offered to the public a few pre-production units must also receive the green light from JTR, (quality assurance), once the pre production units pass, production will start. Again, earliest release of approx 2 months time so long as the preproduction units fit as intended.

Pics of the JTR mockup mule at Sanderson Headers.


Driver side;





Passenger side;

[aj06bolt12r]

Awesome Awesome Awesome!!! I love the build and I like the thread here even better! Thanks for posting this with such great detail and pictures. This could damn near be a how too book. You should write one by the way. Keep it coming. Can't wait to see a video of your best Ken Block impersonation when you get this bad boy on the street!