New Life for a truck passed its prime

[flattopwill]

Thats cool that your driveshaft length is right, I noticed you went with the trans dapt motor mounts. P# 4572 says (factory location). I thought most move the motor back 1". Is every truck different? I would like to get away with having to cut or extend either driveshaft. Also where did you find that kit for $45?

I used the 4572 mounts because that's what Schoenfeld said I had to use when I picked them up (they are local to me). They said if I didn't use those adapter plates then they couldn't garauntee fitment. Basically if I didn't use those plates and I had a problem I was on my own. I don't even understand why Schoenfeld makes this header. They don't make headers for any other production vehicle, only race cars. But that is for a different thread.

[flattopwill]

not enough spline length engagement. You physically could remove your driveshaft without unbolting it from the rear of the truck if the rear end was unloaded of weight by hitting a large swell in the road that caused a 0g effect on the truck.

It will work like that but it can be dangerous. Be sure to weld in the hole in the hole of the bolt on yoke so fluid doesn't flow out of it.

After some quick research during my break at work, I found that these are my options for makin this trans work in my truck:
1. Have the output shaft changed to one designed for slip yoke (costly)
2. Have a drivetrain shop make a driveshaft with a slip built in (also costly)
3. This - http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p69_...pline_wth.html

I will probably go with option 3 or see if a local shop can make me
one. Either way it is more time and $ I wasnt planning to spend. Im outta money...

[keniff]

its comig along good man...im a lil glad i didnt go with an 80E...but your gonna use your truck more than i would. i DD mine an dont get many races in, an its not a track queen

[flattopwill]

its comig along good man...im a lil glad i didnt go with an 80E...but your gonna use your truck more than i would. i DD mine an dont get many races in, an its not a track queen

At this point, I wish I hadnt gone with an 80e. So far, its been the biggest hassle to make work. Ya, my truck is the same as what you said, DD with few races and may never see the track. I went with a 4l80e for two reasons: because I didnt want a transmission that I was gonna have to worry bout goin out in a couple months cause I got throttle happy with my new power, and because I ran into a guy willing to trade a 700r4 straight across for the 80e.

[keniff]

thats an awsome deal...shii i wish i would have had a deal like that.

i got my ECM ready to mount plus i got a lot of the wiring finished now all i needa do is drill a hole an install the OBDII inside the truck. then TUNE time

[flattopwill]

Ya, the bad part of the deal is the guy I bought it from never used it and couldn't confirm it's condition. He bought it from someone that told him it was an '02 with 68,000 miles. Turns out it's a '96 so there's no tellin the condition or miles.

Cool. Where are you mounting your ECM? Erica from Nelson called yesterday to confirm the shipment of my ECM so hopefully it's here by Friday.

[flattopwill]

Well, I fudged up. The measurement from yoke to yoke is the same length as the driveshaft. Which actually means its too long if Im going to use a slip yoke. It wont allow travel. Im going to take my ds to a drivetrain shop and get their advice. If they have to shorten it then they might as well put a slip joint in it. I can see this is going to be pricey.

There are reports of people just buying a normal th400 slip yoke and then cutting 3/4"-1" off and it working just fine. Seems like this wouldnt be healthy and also that it would leak. I want to do this right and not have problems in the future.

Great. I just got off the phone with RevMax about my converter. They told me to expect it here today or yesterday. I called to check on it and he said it will ship out tomorrow. WTF. A fella named Fred said they got overwhelmed with orders and so shipments got behind. I asked for it to be overnighted and he said he couldnt do it but he could ship it 3 day which would get it here tuesday. He was really tryin to work with me to keep up customer service which is great but in my eyes my converter is still a week late. I guess its my fault for ordering all this stuff last minute but I figured 7-10 days was plenty of time for everything to get here.

[flattopwill]

Quick update. Ok, my driveshaft is getting a slip joint put in it and will be ready tomorrow ($200). I got the shift rod shortened one inch and it fits perfect. Holes are drilled for the new trans crossmember location. The new 5.3 harness is in and is having the finishing touches put on it tonight. My cam, tuned ecm, and lower bellhousing all came in today. I think if the converter would have come in on time I could have gotten this thing running and driving this weekend but oh well.

[low91]

I think our trucks are gonna end up very similar, we'll have to line'em up once I slap mine back together. Should be done with it around mid June. Let me know how you like that revmax, I'm still undecided on a converter.

[flattopwill]

I think our trucks are gonna end up very similar, we'll have to line'em up once I slap mine back together. Should be done with it around mid June. Let me know how you like that revmax, I'm still undecided on a converter.

Ya we can definitely line em up for a little fun. If you go with everything in your sig I'll think you'll smoke me. I'm runnin stock TB, gears, and have a 4l80e anchor. Maybe by June I'll throw on a little spray or somethin. I'm hopin this smaller converter makes a difference in parasitic losses cause I don't wanna be gettin beat by stock 5.3 trucks.

I think a lot of people are curious about how this RevMax will work since they are so cheap and nobody really has one. From my research everyone that has one loves and it everyone that doesn't have one says they are probably crap and say you should go with a circle d or yank or some other company they know and that are outrageous. I talked to RevMax on the phone and they seem legit, like they know what they are talkin about, and that their customer service is pretty good (although my converter is late). It's supposed to be built with superduper forged carbon Kevlar billet titanium heavy duty high strength bullshit and even if it doesn't it's got a warranty and if they screw me on a warranty I'm only out $300 instead of $900 from yank.