Man this is a bad ass build. Love it. Do you own JTR? I bought my lowering block for the wife's Colorado from them. Great company.
Man this is a bad ass build. Love it. Do you own JTR? I bought my lowering block for the wife's Colorado from them. Great company.
Name: Mark,
God created turbo lag so nitrous trucks could have a chance.
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post274877
Exhaust to steering shaft clearance is one of bigger hurdles of the V-8 E36 conversions. Like the other kits currently available, JTR is building custom headers to fit the LSx and traditional Small Block in these cars. Sanderson-Headers is building these headers as I type, been told I will have a set in hand within the next 3-4 weeks.Originally Posted by ss6speed
No I do not, that would be Mike Knell. I have built a few V-8 Datsun Z cars using the JTR conversion manual and kits since the mid '90's, have always liked Mikes simplistic no nonsense approach he uses in the design of his conversion kits. Mike was getting ready to start building a kit for these cars last summer, heard I was going to do this, contacted me and asked if I would help in working out the kinks, and here we are. ;-)
Last edited by BRAAP; 05-10-2010 at 11:15 AM.
Forgot the EFI update…
Made up my mind to go with the GM PCM and GM cruise control.
Sold the WOLF V500 and found Chevy Thunder, who will set you up with a stand alone GM PCM and harness for your LSx conversion. He sets some basic settings in the PCM such as tach signal to 6 cylinder, VATS delete, CAGS delete, sets the speed input to match whatever your gearing and tire size is, etc. He also custom builds the harness to whatever length you need to fit your application, including all the connectors you need such as the DLC, your choice fuel injector connector style, O-2 sensor connectors style, 3 wire or 5 wire MAF, coil sub harness connectors, GM cruise control, etc. Also includes the necessary relays and fuses for fuel pump, PCM power, cooling fans, configures for single or dual fan, your choice. The PCM is left unlocked for future tuning if you so desire. I received the PCM and harness and WOW!Every wire/connector is labeled for easy hook up. Relays, fuses, etc. Also included is a very thorough CD regarding many aspects of installing the LSx and PCM including diagrams etc. Very very helpful for anyone doing an LSx conversion.
I also did a bit of research and picked up the HP-Tuners pro suite so I can fine tune everything once it is up and running. Already been using the HP-Tuners to diagnose hung 2nd gear shifts and low idle swings on my wifes Suburban, (TPS/connector issues along with MAP sensor going out).
On his web site is tons of LSx info, PCM pin outs, how to measure your car to determine how long you need the PCM harness to be, etc. Lots of other pages hidden on the site that aren’t accessed from the main pages, just surf around…
New Page 3
The LSx stuff;
LS1 page 1
Haven’t touched the brake lines yet tough I keep threatening to. I am short one little custom bracket for the ABS sensor, with that in hand I would be far more inclined to finish the brakes 100%. ;-)
Today’s distraction was the throttle which is now 100%. I have the clutch and throttle 100%.
Used the Lokar 36” LS1 cable and it fits perfectly. Length is perfect, clevis fits the BMW pedal perfectly, throttle travel is perfect, TB hits WOT with .050” between the pedal and the pedal stop on the floorboard, couldn’t be any easier. Only actual work involved was altering the angle of the firewall penetration so the throttle cable ferrule was aimed more directly at the pedal for smoother actuation.
Next on the to-do list in order of priority;
Brake lines for the ABS relocate.
Heater hose and dual zone climate control valve relocate.
Swap the diff flange out to the 4 bolt style.
Mount the cruise control module and figure out the A/C.
Repair the rear shock tower mounts, (removed the rear tires and WOWZERS! Shock tower sheet metal is literally separating from the body!)
Lokar Clevis fits BMW pedal perfectly!
Throttle cable connected and routed.
Small update.
Pulled the engine/trans out of the car and “finally” relocated the ABS module to the passenger side behind the strut tower.
Drilled the spot welds that held the blower motor tray that was in this position, using the ABS module mount brackets cut off from the driver side, hastily fused them to new sheetmetal to hold the module in its new location. Welds look like….. well… lets just say pigeon poo is more aesthetic, but it works. Welding is not one of my strong points.
If time permits this weekend, I plan to have the ABS module plumbed.
Plenty of room to mount the GM cruise control module next to the ABS module and the climate control valves under the ABS module, if I don’t mount them where the ABS module used to reside under the brake M/C.
Spent today cutting, bending, and flaring some brake tubing. All four wheels are now hydraulically connected to the ABS module, just need to plumb the M/C to the ABS module and the return lines for the ABS module. Hoping to finish the brakes 100% this coming week, if possible. ;-)
Will tidy up the routing of the brake lines once the M/C lines are plumbed in.
Last edited by BRAAP; 05-15-2010 at 10:18 PM.
Hey BRAAP how's this coming? Looks friggin' sweet!!
Finished up the fuel lines 100% couple days ago. Mallory Fuel Pressure regulator tucked nice and tidy under the little ledge where the driver frame rail meets the firewall. Connected the fuel lines to the intake manifold and energized the fuel pump checking for leaks. There was a leak, not from any of the new fuel lines but from the hard line that runs between the tank and the fuel filter was leaking where it passes through the forward most hanger! This car spent some time on the East Coast and its owner apparently drove this car around during the winter there. Some of that awesome rust accelerating agent used on the roads back east made its way between the rubber hanger and the fuel line itself where it went to work rusting through the fuel line! I happened to have some used 8mm fuel lines from a Datsun Z car that is in excellent condition, cut it to length, added appropriate bends, swaged a small flare on the ends, back in business.
Also finished up the Brake M/C lines a few days ago as well. All that is left with the brakes is to install the ABS travel sensor bracket when it arrives so I can install the pedal assy then bleed the brakes.
Also on the list is the heater valve and heater hose routing, I have a couple ideas in mind…
Good progress BRAAP. This build takes me back a few years when I did SCCA Solo II when some peeps where running 350's in their 280Z's and GN motors in RX7's. Had a buddy back then w/a 97 M3 w/a 03 M3 motors in it. Ah, good times.
Been a couple months, about time for an update…
I’m still alive, gaining a little weight, getting older, and still married. Oldest daughter graduated high school, she also got her drivers license and has commandeered my only mode of transportation. Summer weather has been real mild, actually sort of a weird summer weather wise. Our annual camp-in this year was fantastic, thank you to all that came out. The dusty hulk of steel that is close to being evicted, running or not, is still in the shop and on jack stands.
Water temp sendors AND sensors, BMW EFI, BMW Gauge and LSx, measured, (Senders and sensors tested were BMW BOSCH connection/square 2 prong; Black top, Green Top, Brown/Tan top, 4 prong prong round top, early Datsun EFI and GM LSx. Of interesting note is that all the BMW 2 prong EFI and Datsun EFI sensors were within 2% of each tother from 60-20 degrees F).
First the good news.
The resistance values-vs-temp values for the instrument gauges on ALL E36 cars, '92-'99 are the same! We all have been speculating they were different, come to find out they aren’t. BMW originally utilized two separate sensors/senders, (one for the EFI, other for the gauge), on the ’92-’95 cars then in ‘96 combined them into one housing for the later cars, the 4 prong sensor/sender and retained the same exact values for both DME and gauge. :buttrock
Now the great news! :alright
What that means for anyone doing the 92-’99 E36, (318, 323, 325, 328, M3,) LSx conversion is the ’96+ 4 prong sensor/sender works with their gauge and threads directly into the LSx head, no drilling, tapping, bushings, adapters etc to use the earlier 2 prong sensor, unless you want to. :confused Just deduce which 2 prongs for the gauge, (easy to do with the Bentley manual and an OHM meter), and you’re there.
As for the pig tail, many other BMW’s used this same connector, easy to find in wrecking yards on other cars.
Here are the pins to use (Looking at the connector's end. X20 pins based on 1996 328is):
Connector Part # 12521703571 - Need One
Connector Pins # 61130007657 - Need Two (usually comes with short wire and seal)
The just ho-hum news.
The LSx PCM sensor has a slightly different curve/slope compared the BMW EFI temps sensor, enough so that you wont want to use the BMW DME sensor for the LSx PCM, (see chart below). One could possibly adjust the CLT values using one of the tuning suites, I am pretty sure it’s just easier to install the GM temps sensor in the other head and be done with it. For what it’s worth, ALL GM temp sensors coolant and air temp have the same resistance to temp values, across the board, Pontiac, Olds, Chevrolet, etc, applicable to all GM Multi Port EFI vehicles.
LEGEND!
X axis= Degrees Fahrenheit.
Y axis = resistance in OHMS.
BMW EFI I = OBD-I DME temp sensor.
BMW EFI II = OBD-II DME temp sensor.
BMW Gge I = OBD-I gauge temp sender.
BMW Gge II = OBD-II gauge temp sender.
LSx EFI = PCM temp sensor.
There seems to be a down side to these BMW temp gauges. I spent a bit of time researching this and here is what I found.
BMW incorporated some form of buffer within the instrument cluster itself that holds the temp needle straight up, middle of the gauge when the engine is between 140-230ish degrees F. If the coolant temp breaches 230-ish then the gauge will swing from the middle up to HOT, not an incremental climb as one would expect or hope for as the engine gets warmer. The sender itself is analog like any other sender for a temp gauge, this buffering is done in the instrument cluster. Some feel the Euro cluster has less of a buffer but I was not able to find any evidence to support or deny that claim. There is a bit of speculation as to why BMW did this, turning a perfectly useful analog gauge into useless cold hot dial, beneficial no one. (theories such a people are getting so stupid that when they wee gauge move from center they panic and take their car to the dealer so this prevents unnecessary warranty claims, etc). Regardless, I see no point in trying to figure out why BMW did this, it is what it is, any discussion should really be centered around a possible solution to obtain a true analog temp gauge. Some have talked about trying to remove the buffer in the instrument itself, others have successfully replaced the internal guts of the temp gauge with VDO guts, stock needle and now have a gauge that indicates temperature on an analog scale. If someone finds a way to eliminate the buffer itself or other way so to get around this, please share, for now, here is what I found;
The issue, for those interested in reading;
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1208832
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1480682
http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=324399
Fixes;
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1105631
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=776813
I tried to verify this “buffer” thing in my car using a 0-10k potentiometer, (Variable resistor), no joy. I think I may to finish up more of the wiring before my instrument cluster will allow the temp gauge to function?!
In other recent news, received a set of prototype headers to mock up in the car in hopes of finalizing placement of the engine mounts, headers need a bit of work still, we are still up in the air on actual mount design/placement. Though with these headers mocked up I did learn that my choice for location of the Mallory Fuel Pressure Regulator was a poor choice. Headers were within 1/8” to 1/4” of the FPR. Removed the FPR and installed the Corvette FPR/filter in place of the OE BMW filter and all is well now. Connected the battery, (it still has power, even after sitting for over a year!) pressurized the fuel system, fuel pressure is right at 59-60 PSI. Probably should consider ordering another pump to have on hand in case this one dies once I get it on the road. Car had 19x,xxx miles when I put up on jackstands over a year ago, no idea how many miles on this pump and probably shouldn’t trust it especially after sitting for so long and then ramping up the fuel pressure by 33%.
Another note for those of you using the Vette FPR, be aware that if your PCM came from a vehicle that had a FPR that utilized vacuum reference such as the trucks, (not sure about F-bodies), your fuel map will need the appropriate compensation to adjust for not having the Manifold pressure reference. If your PCM came from a vehicle that didn’t have the vacuum reference FPR, no worries.
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