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Thread: Official NBS 4.3v6 to GEN 3 V8 swap Guide

  1. #301
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    In dallas they hook to the PCM, make sure its the same year or newer pcm/tune, check for functionality, error codes and verify driveability checks. Next, they may put you on the rollers and install a tailpipe sniffer and check emissions. Be sure you have the cats installed for the visibility section of the inspection.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  2. #302
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    hot & windy
    Posts
    1,117
    haha. makes me feel better about TN emissions.
    they just plug it up, look underneath to see if it "looks like" you have cats, & check the gas cap seal. i was actually talking to the guy about my engine swap this year
    00 FRC - just top end, exhaust, and a hot-air intake
    99 Sierra - 5.3 / 5spd
    ↓ click the pic for the build ↓

  3. #303
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Alvin, Texas
    Posts
    2
    Thanks for the info guys. I also sent a email to a guy I know through my job who works at a local shop and does inspections. He said the same thing, that as long as I don't have any check engine light and keep the emissions in place then it shouldn't be a problem. I miss the old days when you payed 12.50 for a basic inspection. I had a 83 Silverado with a gutted cat and nothing else and it passed every year no problem. At least Texas isn't as bad as California.

  4. #304
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Humble, TX
    Posts
    91
    It took me about 6 months before i actually did swap from the time i started looking into it. And didnt realize how many people actually did accomplished it. In between that time i was looking at NNBS 5.3 trucks. Took me about a month to get everything i needed for swap.

    Took me two days to do it successfully and started on first try after priming fuel. went from a 11.5 second to 8.7 seconds in 1/8. then best so far on 100 shot was 12.6 @ 107.66mph 2.02 60ft

    * 2002 Chevy Silverado RCSB w/ 4.3 to 5.3 swap
    Installed: McGaughys full 2/4|HD hood/Z71 Airdam|Circle D Built Trans & 3200 stall|34" fans/radiator|True Trac w/ 3.73s|V8 Swap w/ Milled Heads and Comp valvetrain|Custom Grind 22x/23x Cam|Pacesetters LTs & ORY|Magnaflow|Wheatley Tune
    Future Mods: Paint (Sunset Orange Metallic), milled 243s, possibly a 6.0 with either turbo or procharger
    * 2008 GMC CC Texas Edition: stock with CAI

  5. #305
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    North County San Diego
    Posts
    61
    Reading this gives me some hope. I'm in the final stages of the engine rebuild and will drop the engine in on the 13th

  6. #306
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    North County San Diego
    Posts
    61
    I have a couple of hook up questions.

    I have a cut line that in on the underside of my intake. The one side is hooked up to a breather? on the block but the other side???? The line was cut when I got it.

    The other question is a movable hard line attached to the fwd top part of my intake manifold. Any ideas????

    Carnell
    Attached Images

  7. #307
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    hot & windy
    Posts
    1,117
    that first hose looks to be going to one side of the throttle body. really, you don't need it - look up the 'throttle body bypass'
    the second is your evap hose. it's $26 from the stealership (which is the only place i could find one not torn up). i'll look up a part # for ya in a bit. it hooks to the same place as your stock v6 evap line did - right beside the fuel send/return lines that you'll have to cut
    00 FRC - just top end, exhaust, and a hot-air intake
    99 Sierra - 5.3 / 5spd
    ↓ click the pic for the build ↓

  8. #308
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    hot & windy
    Posts
    1,117
    ok, so i can't find that part # and can't go look at it because it's 180mi away (i'm on TDY), but just tell them it's the flex line that hooks to the evap solenoid
    00 FRC - just top end, exhaust, and a hot-air intake
    99 Sierra - 5.3 / 5spd
    ↓ click the pic for the build ↓

  9. #309
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Humble, TX
    Posts
    91
    the first picture like zebra stated above isn't neccesscarily needed to connect to throttle body unless ur in real cold climate. i believe its 5/16 heater hose. you'll only need about 3.5' ft. from head to radiator.

    second picture... you can just get a piece of 3/8 hose to connect in between metal line to the nylon tube. doesnt hold hardly any pressure

    * 2002 Chevy Silverado RCSB w/ 4.3 to 5.3 swap
    Installed: McGaughys full 2/4|HD hood/Z71 Airdam|Circle D Built Trans & 3200 stall|34" fans/radiator|True Trac w/ 3.73s|V8 Swap w/ Milled Heads and Comp valvetrain|Custom Grind 22x/23x Cam|Pacesetters LTs & ORY|Magnaflow|Wheatley Tune
    Future Mods: Paint (Sunset Orange Metallic), milled 243s, possibly a 6.0 with either turbo or procharger
    * 2008 GMC CC Texas Edition: stock with CAI

  10. #310
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    McAlester, OK
    Posts
    131
    ya just do a tb by-pass, and im doing a swap now and had the same prob so I cut the one part on the evap and the got a hose and connected it.

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