If you bought the 3" springs, you could move the rear hanger up to the 1" lowered position and have only lowered it 2". You have a lot of ways to vary your rear height. If you flip the rear with the front 2" hangers you'll have 8" of drop, not very driveable.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Jun 11 2006, 11:40 PM) [snapback]55229[/snapback]</div>If you bought the 3" springs, you could move the rear hanger up to the 1" lowered position and have only lowered it 2". You have a lot of ways to vary your rear height. If you flip the rear with the front 2" hangers you'll have 8" of drop, not very driveable.
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so if i buy the 3 inch drop leafs, will i still need to get a c-notch kit? im thinking it might be a lot cheaper to go back to stock for the rear and just ge me a flip kit? haha
Project: 91' short wide:GMC front end update with billet grille and all clears, 17x8 & 17x11 Torq Thrust II's5/7 drop, almost totally shaved and 93 Deville tailsFuture Plans: 2001 LQ4 6.0L & a T-56
DD: 98' 5 speed GT : Dumped Exhaust, CAI
When you get over 4" of drop a cnotch is mandatory.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
what about if you have a 4" shackle and hanger kit like mine, then you remove the helper spring?
1951 3100
1984 C10
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(duckysbht @ Jun 12 2006, 09:47 AM) [snapback]55251[/snapback]</div>what about if you have a 4" shackle and hanger kit like mine, then you remove the helper spring?
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thats what i did..my helper spring was only about 3/4 of an inch thick
Project: 91' short wide:GMC front end update with billet grille and all clears, 17x8 & 17x11 Torq Thrust II's5/7 drop, almost totally shaved and 93 Deville tailsFuture Plans: 2001 LQ4 6.0L & a T-56
DD: 98' 5 speed GT : Dumped Exhaust, CAI
A 4/6 slammed OBS truck just looks sooooooo nice. I would have done that too but the truck had a 2/4 kit on it when I bought it. I don't have the front hangers to put back on.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
yeah a 4/6 does look sick. i was gonna go with 4/6 if i went with the 05 silvy rims and 285 tires. but i went with 20s, so i went with 2/4. but no red i was asking, if i already have a 2/4 drop, but after the bumper came off and the roll pan went on, it kinda went to a 2/3 drop; and i removed a helper spring, would i have to c notch the frame?
1951 3100
1984 C10
If you haul heavy loads in the back a c-notch might become necessary. My 4" drop bottoms out with a street bike in the back. A c-notch would help prevent that.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
Would it be possible to add an inch or so to the length of the shackles and drill a new set of holes to produce a 3" drop shackle?
[1/8 mile E.T. - 8.23 @ 82.86 mph w/1.82 60'] '98swb,4/6drop,20"RozziDeeps on 275/40ToyoProxes '98LS1/4L60E,TRCheaTR cam,Ported TB,Billet MAF ends,MSD8.5 superconductor wires,S&P midlengths,!EGR,!cats,2 1/2" true duals w/X-pipe,Dynomax Ultraflows,TCI 3000,billet servo,TCI deep aluminum pan,3.73's w/Auburn posi; Eclipse CD, Rockford 6 1/2's, Memphis 12's, Punch 200 ix, Punch 500x
If I remember correctly, 2" shackles are damn near at the floor of the bed. Any longer would hit the bed. I'd have to look at mine. I know mine have a 1" and a 2" adjustment hole.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
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