Stock R4 compressor MOD and E-fan hook up HOW TO

[kewljay223]

Nice write-up on the A/C 'Jay. Just goes to show you, there's more than one way to skin a cat.

Droopy did the same setup as I did. He used the original 4.3/5.7 liter tensioner. That requires turning the water neck some for clearance. And by comparing pics I noticed that your compressor is higher and closer to the water neck than ours.

hey mickey!!! haha i know you read my writeup of this in my build thread so thanks again for the compliment! but i took bestills suggestion to make a writeup on it so everyone could see and possibly get stickied, since theres not many threads about making the ac working for our trucks. so i made it more detailed. but your right, there are many ways of doing this. jsut thought id share my way since i think its a really easy and cheap way of getting it going. just trying to give back to everyone that made this whole swap possible for me you know?

[kewljay223]

looks like droopy and fabi had the same idea. hey mickey, how is yours done? you never really specified.. is it like theirs? i posted this thread to show how i did since its pretty simple to do but if any of you want to show how you did it i could care less if you use this thread to give details. the more the better for the comunity.

@ oldspimp... i see what your saying about the air movement at highway speeds by slowing it down. makes sense. but my 2 16" fans can move some serious air at full speed so i dont think it will hinder it that much but its still a valid observation. i did try and utilize the pressure sensors to control the relays and i couldnt figure out exactly when they would switch on and off. the one on the condenser and the high pressure on the back of the pump. also not all the pumps have the high pressure sensor on the back. depends on the setup that your year truck has. so i figured having the fans on anytime the ac was called for would be more on the safe side. thats why i was asking if you had any suggestions on where else to hook the wire up. im open to suggestions.

i just know that how i have it set up works great and that is why i shared. keep the other solutions coming though for the rest of us.

id still like to know what year truck you have droopy. is it a 95+ or 94-???

[droopyzda1]

id still like to know what year truck you have droopy. is it a 95+ or 94-???

Mine is a simple basic, plane Jane 1994 W/T (work truck). No cruise, no power locks, driver side window is manual but passenger is power (go figure). I do have the luxury of the a/c though. I still have to wire it and the e-fans. I love the write up u did. Just all the schematics kinda shares the hell out me. I thought I was done with the schematics when I went thru the truck's wiring and LS stand alone harness !! My e fans are a simple two wire generic from ebay with two 4 wire relays. They are up next for wiring. I had the pcm reprogrammed from the guy from lt1swap.com and he added another fan control to it. So I added an extra wire to the pcm connector

[Mickeymotormount]

'Jay, mine is like theirs, or like this: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=510656

[kewljay223]

Mine is a simple basic, plane Jane 1994 W/T (work truck). No cruise, no power locks, driver side window is manual but passenger is power (go figure). I do have the luxury of the a/c though. I still have to wire it and the e-fans. I love the write up u did. Just all the schematics kinda shares the hell out me. I thought I was done with the schematics when I went thru the truck's wiring and LS stand alone harness !! My e fans are a simple two wire generic from ebay with two 4 wire relays. They are up next for wiring. I had the pcm reprogrammed from the guy from lt1swap.com and he added another fan control to it. So I added an extra wire to the pcm connector

Yeah i had branden do my pcm also but i had to add 2 wires... one for low and one for high as i stated in the second post. did you already have one wire for fans??? kinda odd.. and it sounds like your fan setup will be basically the same as mine which means your going to need to add the 5 pin (S.P.D.T) switching relay unless your only planning on having them on high speed all the time?? not sure what you have in mind. but hit me up if you need any help with it. Im no stranger to electricity.

and mickey, did you have to go out and find that bracket at a JY or something? it didnt come with your truck right? i was just trying show guys they could use the one that came with the 350 instead of having to buy another one and have to hack it up anyway. lol

[droopyzda1]

I double checked the relays, thery are 5 wires. I was just going to hook up the fans so that they both turn on when you start it. Going to do it like that for now and later on to at least have one of the fans to turn on when I crank the a/c. I am now in the process also in trying to get an expensive fix to the air intake. I got a pcm mount from 96+ Burban for the LS pcm, washer tank off the Burban as well as a cool GM storage box that goes behind the driver front headlight and core support. Its the same spot some people move the battery to when they do the LS swap.

[Mickeymotormount]

'Jay I used what already came with my truck. I used the round bar braces that were used for the alternator bracket to intake manifold and the 4 wheel drive brackets from the engine mounts down to the transmission torque converter cover. By mixing and matching/cutting/welding, I had all the material I needed from my old engine. I'm an Ironworker by trade, so welding and fabbing anything in steel is not beyond my abilities.

Here's a pic of the 4 wheel drive brackets that have the round bar braces that were utilized for the A/C bracing. They are just to the left of the engine, on the cart.

[fabianss357]

'Jay, mine is like theirs, or like this: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=510656

That site linked to the original Malibu site that I used for my setup.
I have a question tho, was your bracket like the one on the malibu site?
The engine in my 90 was botched and peiced together.
I never ran the block numbers since the truck was destined for an LS since I bought it.
It was not an original tbi or centerbolt valve cover headed engine.
It was carbed but still had the serpentine belt setup. My compressor bracket had a different lower brace/area. It appears to have held a smog pump.
I looked over everything and some very slight things are different from all the ones pictured. No matter how I swap the pullies the belt still rubs on itself on the water pump going from the ac comp tensioner to the idler below the alt.
I dont have a sized belt yet but just from my tests it keeps hitting.
How much clearance do yall have there?
I may just have to go dig for the bracket like the one pictured.

[droopyzda1]

Don't know about mickey, but in my case it was the same bracket as that Malibu moded. The Malibu guy used one off the s10 4.3 which was the same motor I had. The clearance between my idler pulleys and the water pump pulley is very tight now. I got about a quarter inch of clearance between the two. Maybe if you try to get smaller pulleys, it can solve the problem.

[fabianss357]

Don't know about mickey, but in my case it was the same bracket as that Malibu moded. The Malibu guy used one off the s10 4.3 which was the same motor I had. The clearance between my idler pulleys and the water pump pulley is very tight now. I got about a quarter inch of clearance between the two. Maybe if you try to get smaller pulleys, it can solve the problem.

Thanks droopy,
I would be happy with a 1/4 inch...
This is what mine looks like now. You can see how it bows up where its making HARD contactvwith the waterpump.




This is my complete bracket.


The lower section.


And once cut.