Try a noid light on the fuel injectors and see if they're firing. They could be stuck if the engine sat any length of time in the bone yard.
Try a noid light on the fuel injectors and see if they're firing. They could be stuck if the engine sat any length of time in the bone yard.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
I got a loaner set of lights today from AutoZone but none of them are the right size. I'll try Advance or Oreilly's.
Steve
66 Chevelle, 454, 200r4, 12.9's, 86 K5 with 5.3
Just another piece of info, I have pulled off injector connectors and put voltage to 4 or 5 of them and all have the solenoid clicking if I just quickly touch the negative. So I think injectors are good and not sticking. I've built 7 or 8 motors and tuned a bunch more. (old school)This is a classic timing issue. Backfiring thru the intake and starter is struggling to turn it over.
Thanks
Steve
66 Chevelle, 454, 200r4, 12.9's, 86 K5 with 5.3
Hmmmm. Strange. You can use any noid light. Just make a couple small jumper wires to attach the pins on the light to the pins in the inj connector. If you think its a timing issue, there would have to be coil control wires crossed up. Im really curious now. I had a cmp connector pinned wrong once and it took forever to start the engine, all the while backfiring. That sounds very similar to your troubles. I doubt you have a ckp problem because you have some spark and fuel. Cmp on the other hand is looking more and more suspect. Keep at it. It'll be worth it.
Just put in new crank sensor and its very close to firing up. What is a crank sensor learn procedure? Is it necessary for a start? or does it just improve performance?
thanks guys!
Steve
66 Chevelle, 454, 200r4, 12.9's, 86 K5 with 5.3
I believe it is needed if the pcm is setting false misfire dtcs. Engine must be running to relearn.
stupid question, I do not have the oil presure sensor connected to the pcm cause I'm gonna use an adapter and use original gage on the dash. The pcm wouldn't keep it from starting if it didn't see the pressure sender signal would it?
Steve
66 Chevelle, 454, 200r4, 12.9's, 86 K5 with 5.3
No, I don't use it in any swaps
Maybe I better go back to square one. While checking wiring yesterday, I started wondering about some basic things I could have got wrong like:
Is the picture of the connector in the "Pinout" sticky the pcm or the wire harness connector?
If its the wire harness connector, which side are you looking at, the front or the back?
On the pcm, which is c1, the top or the bottom?
thanks
Steve
66 Chevelle, 454, 200r4, 12.9's, 86 K5 with 5.3
You may be on to something here. The blue connector is C1. The pcm should say blue where the blue connector goes. Be sure you are not using a late (blue/green) diagram with an early (red/blue) pcm or Vise versa. The connector "view" shouldn't really matter because you are just using the cavity numbers on the connectors themselves. Also looking at the connector cavity numbers, one connector will hook in the pcm one direction and the other goes the other direction.
I like your idea of retracing your steps and I feel like you may possibly find the culprit this way.