+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 15 of 15

Thread: Stuck Lifter?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    McCurtain County, OK
    Posts
    226
    Quote Originally Posted by 2500Ak View Post
    The "grease" on the plug are metal filings, which is normal. Get a filter magnet if it bothers you.

    The pre-03 lifters are an inferior design, they are prone to rattling and once they start they don't stop. My oil looks clean enough that it may have well have just have come right out of the bottle, as I change it frequently, run seafoam in the oil before changes, and it never gets too hot because its winter in Fairbanks.

    Early genIII lifters don't stick, they fail. Its generally benign mines rattled for the better part of 60,000 miles and she's pushing 122,000.

    I'd be more worried about light brown oil, you've probably got coolant getting in somewhere.


    That's my take on it.
    The light brown was from running the Gunk Motor Flush through before the oil change. So, these lifters aren't going to break free, their just broke?
    <><
    2004 ECSB Silverado LQ9 6.0L Superchips;14.0 @ 96: 4900lbs of Fun

    69 Chevelle Coupe LS1/A4 swap

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Idabel, OK
    Posts
    204
    99 C5 cam/boltons 400rwhp
    10 Sierra CC 6.2
    03 Suburban 5.3

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth
    Posts
    9,578
    Quote Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat View Post
    I happened to be at a GM dealership last week and saw the cause of what you may be having issues with. I saw a GM factory cam where the lobe disintegrated and sunk down about .050" and the roller of the lifter was pitted.
    I have seen that as well. Fixing this problem is quite tricky, but you have to address it correctly. I would honestly stop with all of the additives and oil flushes and go straight to replacing the lifters. Yes, its a PITA cause you have to remove the heads, but at that time (once the lifters are removed) you can look down the lifter bores to the cam and see if the cam lobes have excessive wear. To do so, remove heads, lifters, and lifter trays--then turn the crank so the cam spins--and use a flashlight to look down each lifter bore to inspect the cam lobes. They should be fine, but I have seen a lifter go bad, have the roller bearing on the bottom of the lifter mushroom, and flatten a cam lobe.

    Quote Originally Posted by 69chvelle View Post
    The light brown was from running the Gunk Motor Flush through before the oil change. So, these lifters aren't going to break free, their just broke?
    A lifter COULD break apart, so I would go ahead and replace them right now and not jack around with anything else.

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Idabel, OK
    Posts
    204
    Well, if its stuck it might could break free, right?

    However. If its broke, changing the oil few times and adding some solvents isn't going to make it any worse is it? I mean do you really have that much to lose?


    IF its broke, sounds like a good time/excuse to do a cam swap.
    Last edited by stngh8r; 02-09-2010 at 12:45 PM.
    99 C5 cam/boltons 400rwhp
    10 Sierra CC 6.2
    03 Suburban 5.3

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Maui, HI
    Posts
    571
    Quote Originally Posted by txarkitekt View Post
    I have seen that as well. Fixing this problem is quite tricky, but you have to address it correctly. I would honestly stop with all of the additives and oil flushes and go straight to replacing the lifters. Yes, its a PITA cause you have to remove the heads, but at that time (once the lifters are removed) you can look down the lifter bores to the cam and see if the cam lobes have excessive wear. To do so, remove heads, lifters, and lifter trays--then turn the crank so the cam spins--and use a flashlight to look down each lifter bore to inspect the cam lobes. They should be fine, but I have seen a lifter go bad, have the roller bearing on the bottom of the lifter mushroom, and flatten a cam lobe.



    A lifter COULD break apart, so I would go ahead and replace them right now and not jack around with anything else.
    Id say go with Tyler's suggestion, pretty much going straight to the source without procrastination. Hopefully you dont have a worn lobe... this happened on my friends 99 5.3.
    99 Silverado 1500 4x4 RC 4.8
    4L60E, 3.73, Homemade CAI, 92oct Quik tuned,
    08 Tahoe radiator/fans, Dumped exhaust... summed up one loud pig caller |[226K! on odometer|

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts