6.0 in a 81

[PunishedC10]

What did you use for a fuel pump?

[glock35ipsc]

where do i start? i have a block out of a 2005 or so. what do i do about motor mounts? im gonna use a 700r4 tranny. ls6 heads and intake, possibly blower, nitrous maybe, just some ideas and how to do the motor mounts.

Keep in mind that to use the TH700R4, you will need to use a cable actuated throttle body to be able to connect the TV cable from the trans. You won't be able to do that with a drive by wire TB. It would get even trickier if relocating the TB for a supercharger, although it could be done with a custom TV cable and brackets though, just a little trickier.

You can make your own engine mount plates fairly easy:

http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/imag...ount_plate.jpg

A ton of good info and part numbers here:

http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...-ls1-swap.html

[Venom]

thanks alot!! anyone have help info on what to do with the fuel tank and pump?

[glock35ipsc]

As in what? Do you want to keep it? You can use the existing tank(s), or get baffled tanks from an 87. Use an ACDelco EP381 in-tank pump, and if you use a single fuel line/returnless system, use a 99 Vette filter/regulator. Use a good quality fuel injection hose and smooth stainless clamps to make connections at the sending unit and filter/regulator.

I have a list of part numbers and places to get the best prices for a complete dual tank fuel system on my computer at work. I can PM it to you if you would like.

[ls182]

I have a list of part numbers and places to get the best prices for a complete dual tank fuel system on my computer at work. I can PM it to you if you would like.

Can you just post the information here? It would be great for other people who are doing this type of swap. Thanks.

[glock35ipsc]

Ask and you shall receive!


* AC Delco EP381 in-tank pumps. $69 each at FE0114 - Electric Fuel Pump
* Pollak high psi tank selector valve, this is a direct OEM replacement (JC Whitney p/n ZX812705U) $83
* Fuel selector switch from an 87, replaces existing dash switch (AC Delco p/n D7089C) $11.50 at rockauto.com
* Corvette filter/regulator if running a returnless/1 line system (WIX p/n 33737) $34 at rockauto.com

If you don't already have in-tank pumps, you'll need sending units:

* Dorman p/n 692027 for the driver side, $94 at rockauto.com
* Dorman p/n 692044 for the passenger side, $101 at rockauto.com

To make the connections at the filter/regulator:

The inexpensive way:
* 3/8" female connector (Dorman p/n 800121) $6.30 at rockauto.com
* 5/16" female connector (Dorman p/n 800120) $6.30 at rockauto.com
* 3/8" x 12" double ended male connector (Dorman p/n 800155) $8.20 at rockauto.com

The "nicer looking" way:
* 3/8" to -6AN straight fitting, Russell #640850
* 5/16" to -6 AN straight fitting, Russell #640860
* -6AN to -6AN union, Russell #660350
* -6AN tube sleeve, Russell #660650
* -6AN tube nut, Russell #660571

And be sure to use a good quality high psi fuel pressure hose for connections, not regular fuel line. And use smooth stainless fuel hose clamps that look like these:



If anyone see's something I forgot let me know, and I'll edit the post.

[PunishedC10]

Sweet thanks for that. So which motor is going to be the easiest to put in. a drive by wire or a drive by cable?

[RedHeartbeat]

Cable!

[glock35ipsc]

Cable is easiest. Use the donor vehicles cable, you only need to file the firewall hole open a touch qnd everything should fall in place.

Wire is pretty easy too, just some minor fab to mount the pedal on the inside.

I am going with drive by wire because I like the cleaner look under the hood (no throttle or cruise cables), and I can keep the OEM cruise control by only connecting a few wires.

[ls182]

Ask and you shall receive!

Thanks buddy!