which plates?

[r6z4o6]

*FROM LS1TECH*

VVVV
http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/imag...ount_plate.jpg
^^^ This one seems to be the one that everyone uses...

http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/imag...t_plate_V2.jpg
^^WTF is this for??

eBay Motors: 1962-1967 Nova X-body Chevy II LS1 Conversion Kit (item 260147701760 end time Nov-06-07 17:41:08 PST)
^^^ does that look like an alternative to "banging out the cup" in the stock-style engine side mounts?

I run a CNC mill for 12 hours a day and roommate runs CNC plasma table. I want to put 5.3 + T-56 into my 91. I have the V8 mounts. We could make these for half price cheap! Which ones would we/everyone need?

[NITROUS]

I made a set out of stainless like the first pic. That print is just slightly off so measure the center to centers on your block unless you open the hloes up a 1/64th larger for alignment. Not to sure why they went with the countersunk holes because I had enough clearance for a regular hex head cap screw. I used the counter sunk holes anyway. LOL Here's a pick of my plates.





BTW, the hole in the cylinder block is to add more cubic inch.

[RedHeartbeat]

Those look pretty similar to the ones in mine. They're holding up just fine even with all the abuse they've gotten.

[NITROUS]

BTW, The 2nd set of plates will fit a C4 swap like this one. Some friends of mine are doing this one.

[r6z4o6]

ooo thank you thank you for the pics nitrous!! Yeah, i have an LS1 block that threw #7 rod through the block, i can use it to measure and then my stock cups. So they just share that one bottom center hole? NIiiice. The stainless looks nice. Would a huge chunk of aluminum that was milled out to bolt the 4 bolts to the LS block, then perpendicular 2 ears for the frame side mount be feasible? Perhaps with steel bushings on the "ears" going to the frame mounts? One piece from the frame mount to the engine block humm...

[NITROUS]

LOL, Ya some good stainless works well huh Greg?

r6z4o6, the aluminum will work fine. S&P makes them out of 5/8" plate but they can be a bitch to get the bolts through. I'd stick with some 3/8 carbon steel or stainless if you have access, if not use the aluminum.

[r6z4o6]

OKOK. So the drawings i put up in first post say to use 1/4 inch steel...but yours are 3/8 correct? I like a little bit of insurance for "junstincases."Got my ls1 block in the back of the hyundai and taking it to work tomorrow. Got my v-8 cups, i plan on making plates, bolting them to cups, then taking THOSE dimensions and making:

*

So what is the difference in v6 and v8 on-frame motor mounts? If i can get my hands on a set i can make a one-piece motor mount for the v8 and a seperate revison for the v6 equipped obs trucks. In theory, it would keep v6 trucks from taking their front end apart, buying new v8 on-frame mounts, v8 cups, banging cups flat, and then get adapter plates....or am i just wasting time and need to make my steel plates and go about my business?








* (c) 2007

[NITROUS]

I'd make the steel plates and use the mounting cups. You'll need to grind the raised area off the side of the cups that the plates mount to.

[86 Silverado LS1]

eBay Motors: LS1 LS6 CONVERSION MOTOR MOUNTS ADAPTER PLATES (item 230188741384 end time Nov-11-07 15:14:01 PST)

These are the ones I used (as best as I can remember). They worked fine. Keep in mind...once everything is in you cant see them. So as long as they are strong and line up they are as good as any.

[r6z4o6]

Squint real hard to see the dark blue!!

Dark Blue = LSX engine
Bright Red = CHevy truck side

I read on the LS1 swap sticky that if the 3 bolt part was moved to the front an inch, the driveshaft / crossmember changing would be minimalized. What do you guys think? Top is what some places sell now, bottom is what i will mock up in aluminum tomorrow(hopefully)




3/8 thick aluminum, countersunk holes on the red circles to flush mount whatever hardware i decide to put in. Once this part works, then i will put some "ears" on it make it out of steel and weld it *crosses fingers*