have any of you done a cam swap without new springs? and if so how big was the cam?
have any of you done a cam swap without new springs? and if so how big was the cam?
its just a work truck 4.8L with a 5 speed
i havent heard of any personally.... IMO i would just spend the lil extra cash for ALOT of security
sprayedenali: i like catching, but not fishingOriginally Posted by DamnYankee
lol...I wish you would never paint your truck...I bet it bugs them that much more that a primered up truck just soggied his Wheaties. good job buddy
DBTBSS: bring Tyler... we need someone to make fun of
MidnightRider: your right im gay
DamnYankee: my nana failed
DamnYankee: confused...if it can't keep up to begin with, how can it keep up
mitch cobb racing: ya, allen played with it for a while, HUGE difference
pretty much, any cam change should get better springs
'92 GMC reg. cab, step side. 7.32@ 92.3. SOLD
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/d...d700c6401f.htm
New project: '00 S-10 ext. cab, ZQ8, 370, T-56, daily driver.
Pick up some yellow LS6 springs, good to right around .550-.560" lift. Best part, under $75.
The superior man is modest in his speech, but exceeds in his actions. - Confucius
"He who asks of life nothing but the improvement of his own nature, is less liable than anyone else to miss and waste life."- Henri Frederic Amiel
'01 Chev Z71 LT - '85 BMW 745i TURBO - '88 BMW 750iL - '88 Ford F150 XLT Lariat - '79 MB 240D - '79 MB 280S Euro
'80 MB 380SE-5.0 Euro - '85 MB 300SD - '87 MB 300SDL - 1990 MB 300SEL - '91 MB 300SE - '91 MB 560SEL
Let's face it, the red hair... makes 'em wet.
I suggest springs on any cam, I was floating valves with my 02 LS6 cam which is a baby cam 204/217
99 ECSB 5.3 LS6 CAM AND SOME BOLT-ONS BEST TIME 13.6@97MPH
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...wTRUCKS008.jpg
i have a simular question. i just got done installing a vhp .551/.551 "the trucker cam" and i installed with stock valve springs.... now the cam is supose to only have power until 6200, will i start floating them way before that??? i know with the stock didnt float the valves until around 6000 so i wouldnt think that 200 extra would be to bad. i dont even know if im gonna have it shift that high. but anyways just curious.. thanks
ryan
-04 reg cab shrt bed
-5.3l
-best 12.6@106
You're going to beat those stock springs to pieces. If anything I'd lower the redline to prevent floating the valves. The stock springs weren't designed to handle those rpm and you've increase the speed and ramp angles of the valves along with the distance they'll have to travel. Did you also reuse the stock pushrods?
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
yes i did use the stock push rodi really dont want to pull this thing apart again.. i figure the worse that happens i that it will float them. it sucks having put the motor all together and then find out that i gotta take it back apart
ryan
-04 reg cab shrt bed
-5.3l
-best 12.6@106
research people research!
all you have to do is pull the coils and valve covers to switch springs and pushrods. Get some CompCams 26918-16 springs and 7.400 CompCams or ThunderRacing hardened .080" wall pushrods. There's a guy on LS1Tech in the tool section that markets an inexpensive spring compressor tool, about $20. An air compressor tool to hold the valves and you're ready to switch springs. I'll take the spark plug out, put some cotton rope into the cylinder(leaving some hanging out to retrieve it) and the rotate the piston around to TDC to lock the valve in place while swapping springs.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
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