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Thread: Output Shaft End Play (4L60E)

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Denton Texas
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    20,540
    I'll have to dig out my instruction sheet tonight on the 1-2 accumulator and see what it said. I remember putting washers in mine but it doesn't bang much with the convertor I run. The stock convertor beat the tar out of the transmission so the 3600 stall is going back in, it was more fun anyway.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
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    997
    Found a 3-4 clutch pack kit on my porch yesterday afternoon. Happy b-day to me. Those got dropped in trans fluid to soak for 24 hours... only b/c wifey took me out to dinner with another couple last night. I'll try to get everything buttoned up and bolted in for a test drive before sun-down. Hope all turns out well. I only left one washer in... wondering if I need to remove that one too. Maybe not.
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  3. #43
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    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
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    What clutch pack did you go with?
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
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    Hi Perf... unfortunately, not the Red Eagles. The steels seem to be slightly thicker than what I had in there. I'd expect the frictions to be, but not the steels. In any case, the gap is .071"... definitely within the .060" - .085" spec. With the HD2 & Sonnax 2nd & 4th servos, the 3-4 cp should hold up to my mildly powered powertrain.
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
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    The thicker steels are supposed to help the clutches last longer since they can absorb more heat without getting heat checked and destroying the frictions. FWIW, the blue plates require .050 +/-.005" clearance. That's pretty tight tolerances. Good luck with your's. Mine goes back in tonight, also.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    997
    Ran out of trans fluid at about 9pm. Didn't feel like going to Wally World to pick up another gallon. Will finish things up tomorrow. Also got the new t-stat in. Will update tomorrow.
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
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    That's a bitch. I filled mine up last night with only 6 quarts. The convertor had some juice in it already but its a 10" and takes a lot less fluid. I need to get a 2 quart pan to add some fluid back to the system. Oh yeah, it's back running down the road. Drove it to work today. I sure missed my 3600 stall. This thing launches from a stop light like a rabbit from a fox and doesn't even squeel a tire.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
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    Well... that must be nice to drive. I wish I could do the same. Somehow, I have a new gremlin laughing it's ass off at me. Murphy stopped by yesterday, and declared that I shall not drive truck normally.

    I don't know if there's a valve body issue somewhere or what, but I have no forward motion when the truck is in "D" or "3". It moves fine in "R" and "2" (no "1" due to 3-spd shifter). Now... I had a cracked P/N switch. I recently put a bead of sealant over the crack. Installed the trans, everything's in place as should, but no freakin' forward motion. All the wires are connected as they should be. Nothing else was left loose. I'm not motivated to remove this thing again.

    It almost seems like there's no auto shift functionality at all. Here's the twist. I took it down the street (started in "2"), and with HPT, I can shift in "3" & "4" using the VCM Controls feature to electronically force the 2-3-4 shifts. Am I missing something here? I wouldn't assume it's the main cable being that I'm able to manually activate the shift solenoids to shift through 2-3-4.

    Any ideas?

    *edit* oh yeah... tried to manually up-shift from "2" to "3", and the engine just rev'd up. Had to demand "3" using HPT and that worked. What gives?
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
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    Do you not have an SES light? My first thought was a bad MAF sensor or TPS sensor. I can check my reference manual tonight and see what it says. I'd hold off on pulling the whole transmission, sounds like something else. Check the 12V power supply at the main connector to the transmission to see that you do have 12v to the TCC circuit and the solenoids. Also, did you remove any grounds from the PCM? My first trans rebuild resulted in pinching wires from the cam sensor in between the bell housing and block and the truck wouldn't start. Could you have got some other wires between yours?
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    997
    Ahh... just took it down again last night after cutting grass right before a rain storm. Got it from under the truck, on my tailgate work-bench, and buttoned back up at 9pm. Not bad considering I started @ 6pm.

    It's back under the truck with only 4qts of fluid in the pan. You guessed it, I'm out. Going to the store after I shower & get my 10 yr old some breakfast. He wants to ride in The Beast. So, I have to finish this up today before we go out of town.

    I'll let ya'll know the results. Oh yeah... the "spare" input sprag was slipping. Got another from a local shop that builds performance transmissions. We'll see how this one holds up.

    Later!
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

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