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Thread: Output Shaft End Play (4L60E)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
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    997
    I posted my question on PT, and figured I'd also ask those with experiences (good or bad) with 4L60Es. I know the end play on the input shaft should be between .015" and .036", without getting any tighter than .015".

    My question is what's the recommended end play for the output shaft?
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
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    I think it's regulated by the snap ring on the shaft and the internal transmission assembly backlash that was set by the front input housing.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  3. #3
    sprayed99 Guest
    I think Red's correct here

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Baton Rouge, LA
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    997
    OK, cool... just checking. While I was checking on the clutches in the input drum, lookie what I found (see if you see something wrong/missing from one or the other... aside from the clutches).

    Truck shaft/input setup on left & older non-truck setup on right:



    Close-up of truck setup:



    Close-up of non-truck setup:





    Now... here's a couple pics of the clutches

    Found in truck setup:



    Found in non-truck setup:




    For some reason, or another, the non-truck clutches looked FUBaR! The first set of clutches (3-4) look as if chips & pieces broke off. Haven't checked the rest as this is the non-truck setup. But, the all of the clutches in the truck setup look somewhat normal. If they're in physically good shape, are they still considered good?

    All the more reason why I wish I had gotten FLT to do this in the first place. Haven't gone further down in the input drum yet. Maybe I'll finish this evening, but after this, I don't really feel like going further.
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
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    Those little springs, the five of them, toss the assemblies because you don't need them.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Baton Rouge, LA
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    Care to elaborate? I'm clueless as to why they weren't included. Learning here...
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
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    The factory puts that springs in there and the first time the transmission get rebuilt by anyone but the factory the ATSG manual says to toss the spring assemblies.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
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    997
    LOL Not to seem anal about it, but I'm an engineer, and that's my nature. I want to know why? What's the purpose? I have the manual, and they say for a more improved 2-3 shift... is this REALLy true?
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    I believe the sole purpose of those spring assemblies is to push the clutch cover away from the clutches when no fluid pressure is applied. I'm sure it's to reduce wear on the clutches but they found out it was overkill.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
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    997
    Well... I was wondering about the clutch plate having some wiggle room. I was also wondering how much gap should be in this area. I can't remember what the manual says. I'll have to see when I get home.

    I'm thinking of doing just for reassurance, but based on the pics, should I bother buying a new clutch kit? I bought these a few months ago for $35 from Oregon Performance.
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

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