402 LS1?

[gmcguy11111]

In the next year I want to perform a LS1 swap into my pickup and i have a couple questions concerning possible upgrading. Although i probably wont have the funds this year, what would i need to have it built with to withstand a sts turbo in the near future. My question is how difficult and how much would it cost to rebuild a stock low mileage LS1 into a stroked 402 forced induction capable engine? My ultimate goal is 400-450 rear wheel horsepower and i figured a 402 ls1 and a sts turbo at around 7 psi would do the job. Going along with that, is the LS1 motor the best way to go about this or is a 6.0 engine better? Any help and opinions good or bad would be greatly appreciated.

[heavypulling]

i would say the lq4 6.0 would be the best, but i don't know maybe this will get others to post a reply. also if you want around 400 to 450 horsepower you might as well just go all motor, because the sts will put up to around over 500 but i think that would be even better than 450 just my opion, good luck with this.

[RedHeartbeat]

An LS1 will require being resleeved to make it a 402. The cost of resleeving will be tremendous. You're better off buying an LS2 block that is already 4" or buying a L92 block that is 4.06" and having an even larger engine. The LS2 block is about the same cost as an LS1/LS6 block. The L92 will cost you about $300 additional due to the work they do inside the block to control displacement on demand(dod) and variable valve timing.

[gmcguy11111]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Dec 31 2006, 08&#58;20 AM) [snapback]77874[/snapback]</div>

An LS1 will require being resleeved to make it a 402. The cost of resleeving will be tremendous. You&#39;re better off buying an LS2 block that is already 4" or buying a L92 block that is 4.06" and having an even larger engine. The LS2 block is about the same cost as an LS1/LS6 block. The L92 will cost you about &#036;300 additional due to the work they do inside the block to control displacement on demand(dod) and variable valve timing.
[/b]

Thanks for the replies guys. I was told the ls1 could be stroked to a 402 without resleeving thats good infromation to know. How large can an ls1 be stroked, 383? As for the horsepower numbers more is obviously better i was just shooting for 400-500 rear wheel in the end. i will look into the l92 or ls2 block and see what i can find. im going to have around 4-5 thousand to build a motor so i would like to go the easiest and best way possible.Thanks

[RedHeartbeat]

All the aluminum blocks have a max overbore of about .010". The 97 and 98 LS1 don&#39;t even allow that much according to what I&#39;ve read. 402 is typically a 4" bore with a 4" stroke. 408 would be with a 4.030 overbore.

[gmcguy11111]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Dec 31 2006, 11&#58;17 AM) [snapback]77884[/snapback]</div>

All the aluminum blocks have a max overbore of about .010". The 97 and 98 LS1 don&#39;t even allow that much according to what I&#39;ve read. 402 is typically a 4" bore with a 4" stroke. 408 would be with a 4.030 overbore.
[/b]

Interesting i didnt know that. How hard would it to be to rebuild a stock ls1 into like 10 psi forced induction capable? The stock ls1 is 350 horse right, and i believe the turbo can give up to 15 psi so wouldnt a rebuilt LS1 with a turbo kick out somewhere in the 500 horse range. Thanks.

[RedHeartbeat]

Take a stock LS1, bore it plus .010", add ARP bolts/studs to the stock rods, mains and heads, put forged pistons in it with increased pocket sizes in the pistons to drop compression or add 317 casting 6.0L heads to drop the compression. Run 10+ lbs of boost and you&#39;ll be easily 500+ hp at the rears. Talk to Billy or Allen and they can put you together a game plan.

[gmcguy11111]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Dec 31 2006, 11&#58;40 AM) [snapback]77886[/snapback]</div>

Take a stock LS1, bore it plus .010", add ARP bolts/studs to the stock rods, mains and heads, put forged pistons in it with increased pocket sizes in the pistons to drop compression or add 317 casting 6.0L heads to drop the compression. Run 10+ lbs of boost and you&#39;ll be easily 500+ hp at the rears. Talk to Billy or Allen and they can put you together a game plan.
[/b]

That sounds good, not too overly complicated. What are good forged piston brands and such in your opinion, i really dont know because I did a internet search and get thousands of possibilities from a ton of different places. Will this engine run ok on the lower compression without the turbo for a while, or should i wait till i have it all to install it? Also, with this setup and proper maintenance how many miles do you think the engine would last, if possible i would like this setup to last 100k miles if possible and have it get me through college, but if not i guess thats ok. Its going to be my daily driver so im not going to be racing it everyday, but occasionally i may take it to the track. Thank you for all your help, its greatly appreciated.

[RedHeartbeat]

You&#39;ll want to buy a boost controller so that you can run 5-7 lbs every day and boost it up at the track. It should last a good long time. There are quite a few good forged pistons out there. Wiseco, Probe, Mahle, Ross....only to name a few. Be sure to do your research and call the manufacturer and talk to their customer service rep about your application before dropping the coins on a set. You&#39;ll also need good quality rings, most are around &#036;200 a set unless you go extreme with a very nice set of total seal gapless rings. Be sure when you buy bearings for the engine that you buy nothing that isn&#39;t coated. An extreme use engine needs everything it can get towards lubrication. Calico makes nice coated bearings and they aren&#39;t that much more expensive than stock units. They start with popular brands of bearings and then apply their proprietary coating to the bearing surfaces. Go check out their website and read up on the benefits. You might even consider getting the piston skirts coated to reduce friction.

[gmcguy11111]

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