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Thread: 1990 C1500 4L80E Gear Selector Linkage

  1. #1

    1990 C1500 4L80E Gear Selector Linkage

    I'm looking at the install as it sits and I've got to install the gear selector linkage but noticed it was too long to work with the trucks original link arm. Are you guys shortening the selector arm, using a arm from a different truck? I'll be uploading a photo later today.

  2. #2
    Well guys, I forgot to take a photo of the linkage... Anyone out there have a similar build? I'm wondering if the shift selector linkage is different lengths based on the year of the truck.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    111
    What parts too long, the arm fron the frame that crosses over to the tranny? If so, shouldn't be too hard to cut a bit out and weld it back together. I got lucky with my 6L80; the linkage from my '92 works just fine.
    1992 K1500 Blazer.
    L94 & 6L80
    14 Bolt SF axle w/11" brakes & appropriate Combination brake valve, Eaton Trutrac rear posi.
    8000# hidden winch, Rocket Box, KYB Monomax shocks
    285/75R16 Duratracks
    Flat Panel Display Gauge cluster in progress.
    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...00-blazer.html
    New interior & exterior paint planned.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Nak View Post
    What parts too long, the arm fron the frame that crosses over to the tranny? If so, shouldn't be too hard to cut a bit out and weld it back together. I got lucky with my 6L80; the linkage from my '92 works just fine.
    That's correct, the linkage that goes from the frame to the transmission is about a inch too long. I was thinking about shortening the rod, and seeing how that goes.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    111
    Before you shorten the rod, check and see if it is clear of the front driveshaft. If the 4L80 shifting shaft is at all lower than what you had you may get interference between the shift rod and the driveshaft. At least on mine, "Park" is where it's closest to the driveshaft. If that's the case you may need to make bigger modifications to the rod than just shortening it. Might as well do it all at once if you need to... Mine actually taps the driveshaft when I go into park. If the 6L80 shifting shaft was at all lower--even an 1/8"-- I'd have to mod the rod.
    1992 K1500 Blazer.
    L94 & 6L80
    14 Bolt SF axle w/11" brakes & appropriate Combination brake valve, Eaton Trutrac rear posi.
    8000# hidden winch, Rocket Box, KYB Monomax shocks
    285/75R16 Duratracks
    Flat Panel Display Gauge cluster in progress.
    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...00-blazer.html
    New interior & exterior paint planned.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Nak View Post
    Before you shorten the rod, check and see if it is clear of the front driveshaft. If the 4L80 shifting shaft is at all lower than what you had you may get interference between the shift rod and the driveshaft. At least on mine, "Park" is where it's closest to the driveshaft. If that's the case you may need to make bigger modifications to the rod than just shortening it. Might as well do it all at once if you need to... Mine actually taps the driveshaft when I go into park. If the 6L80 shifting shaft was at all lower--even an 1/8"-- I'd have to mod the rod.
    No worries about a front shaft, its going into a 2wd C1500.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Douglasville Ga
    Posts
    224
    Unfortunately I don't have any pics but I did an 80e into a 92 C1500 and I remember cutting, bending and welding the rod back together. Worked perfect and looked completely factory after I ground the weld down smooth.

  8. #8
    That's exactly what I'm going to do. The dimensions on the rod is almost 1" longer than necessary, and the shift selector rod from the 80e extends out that far as well, due to the NSS being in the way.

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