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Thread: Step Notch/Super Notch.....whataever its called...

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Long Beach California
    Posts
    637
    thats exactly what i was talking about. my concern is why they left that area. im guessing because its a "bolt in" and any extra verticle strength is neccessary. i agreee with you tho, if i weld it all up, bolts arent needed and will make it worse. just wanted confirmation.

    i think im gonna do the notch reguardless. my axle hits any time my bed is loaded up so the extra clearance is a benefit.

    i guess now my problem is deciding on which tires/size to run.... jeast just threw a major wrench in the mix!! lol damit!!!

    btw, why is the bottom part circled in blue? seems that overhang is unneccssarry...
    Last edited by kewljay223; 03-18-2014 at 02:16 AM.
    Like Tumbler in "Gone in 60" I'll drive anything with wheels or without

    My 95 ECSB LQ9 build thread - http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...to-95-obs.html
    CALI LEGAL ENGINE SWAP!
    Stock 03 LQ9, DBW, 95' 4l80e w/ Transgo shift kit, 2010 50# GM injectors, 2800 Circle D stall, Spectre CAI, Upgraded trans cooler, Home-made E-fans/shroud, Dual EP-381 fuel pumps w/Home-made hotwire kit
    NEXT ON LIST: Dual Battery setup, CAM/Valvetrain upgrade, Build my own rear mount turbo, TRU-TRAC, HIT THE STRIP!!!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    121
    I was never able to get very competitive pricing on Yokahoma tires. Those both seem like good prices but the 285 50 is a cheaper tire from all manufactures (more common). There r lots of choices for tires in the proper size.Just do a search on tire rack and take ur pick. Falken is just an example i looked up. If u want to fill the wheel arch more with the tires, u could step up to a 28" tire. Just remember, when u use a larger diameter tire ur speedometer needs corrected and u loose power to the ground. U have a great looking truck, i don't think it would look right with a 31.5" tire in the back and a 26.5" in the front. I wouldn't bother building a bigger frame notch until u plan to bag the truck (im assuming u already have a frame notch like the ones from belltech or djm). If u just need a simple c notch, do that for sure, that should have been done with the 4/6 drop. The best option is to weld it in for sure. Good luck with ur project man.
    Last edited by jeast; 03-18-2014 at 05:38 AM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    81
    Quote Originally Posted by kewljay223 View Post
    thats exactly what i was talking about. my concern is why they left that area. im guessing because its a "bolt in" and any extra verticle strength is neccessary. i agreee with you tho, if i weld it all up, bolts arent needed and will make it worse. just wanted confirmation.

    btw, why is the bottom part circled in blue? seems that overhang is unneccssarry...
    The AVS notch is not meant to be bolted in. It's a weld in notch, but Marcos (that's his picture) wanted to bolt it in to check if he could still tow with the KP 6-link. He didn't want to notch his frame 8" and lay the truck out then find out he couldn't tow. When he successfully towed, he got rid of the AVS notch and put a big notch on there to lay out.

    The piece of the notch that is hanging below the frame is because there is more than one way to weld it together. If they had welded it higher then that overhang wouldn't be there and the notch would be that much bigger. So instead of welding the small section with a hole on it in the picture below under the plate that wraps around the frame they welded it inside the plate that wraps around they could get a bigger notch. That is how I plan on doing it. I want my notch as big as possible.


    Link to AVS notch and where I got the above pic:
    http://www.avsontheweb.com/product.p...cat=482&page=1

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Long Beach California
    Posts
    637
    thanks man. you helped out alot. i know how im going to do it. i want as big a notch as possible too. the only downside is that i will have to cut a section in the bed for the pumpkin. no way around it. i didnt want to but oh well. its not really all that big a deal. just gotta make sure i dont have some big ass heavy thing sitting over the hole when the pumpkin decides to come poking up through... lol
    Like Tumbler in "Gone in 60" I'll drive anything with wheels or without

    My 95 ECSB LQ9 build thread - http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...to-95-obs.html
    CALI LEGAL ENGINE SWAP!
    Stock 03 LQ9, DBW, 95' 4l80e w/ Transgo shift kit, 2010 50# GM injectors, 2800 Circle D stall, Spectre CAI, Upgraded trans cooler, Home-made E-fans/shroud, Dual EP-381 fuel pumps w/Home-made hotwire kit
    NEXT ON LIST: Dual Battery setup, CAM/Valvetrain upgrade, Build my own rear mount turbo, TRU-TRAC, HIT THE STRIP!!!

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