First time swap. LQ9 into 95 OBS

[kewljay223]

what are the part numbers for the adapters going to the engine oil cooler on theradiator? Thanks

oh man, you dont even know how long it took me to figure out what the threads were!!! i searched sooooo much and this question was asked ALL OVER the net but nobody had any answers. i planned on posting it once i figured it out just for that reason but i guess i forgot!!!

anyway the thread pitch is a 20MM x 1.5 thread pitch http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-9919fflerl

there ya go bud. all i used was some teflon and it works great. no leaks. good luck

[kewljay223]

so i finally got the truck back from the trans shop the other day. IT RUNS AWESOME!!! all that ls power is finally getting to the wheels. the 80e is a beast!! it holds so good in every gear! aparantly i got all the wiring hooked up for it properly since it shifts just like it should so that was a relief! ive done multiple 50' burnouts.... haha so bad ass. they guys at the shop who test drove it were giving the truck all kinds of compliments!

the worm clamps on the rubber hose in the tank is what i think did the trick. fuel pressure is still at 30psi after 3 days of just sitting. so be warned, DO NOT USE THE PLASTIC CLAMPS THAT COME WITH THE PUMP. THEY DO NOT WORK!!

there are ZERO leaks on anything. the only codes i have is the o2 sensor out of range wich i still believe to be caused by the exhaust leak so all i need now is to get the exhaust system fabbed up and i should be ready for referee testing.

i also have something up my sleeve for mounting the AC compressor up high using the stock bracket from the old motor which everyone seems to think is impossible. once i get it all layed out, ill post how i did it. cant believe nobody has come up with my idea yet.

anyway here is a video clip of the truck going from a 20 roll to 80 on a freeway onramp. this thing can move. sorry its taken so long to get a video up. the dual bullet mufflers dumped sounds sooooo good. kind of hard to tell in the video tho.

[Mickeymotormount]

Glad to see you finally got her where you want it to be. Lots of effort and cost but she finally made it. Congrats!!!!!

[kewljay223]

thanks mikey. u helped out a lot. i sent you a pm with another question. haha. talk to you later

[chevy_addicted]

oh man, you dont even know how long it took me to figure out what the threads were!!! i searched sooooo much and this question was asked ALL OVER the net but nobody had any answers. i planned on posting it once i figured it out just for that reason but i guess i forgot!!!

anyway the thread pitch is a 20MM x 1.5 thread pitch http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-9919fflerl

there ya go bud. all i used was some teflon and it works great. no leaks. good luck

Thanks man!

[kewljay223]

ok so like i mentioned before i figured out a way to use the original bracket from the TBI motor to keep my R4 compressor. i didnt want to go searching for the s-10 or spend hundreds of dollars on a kit. although i did just come across a holley kit that looked great and i think it was only 130 bucks or so. but i wanted to see if i could make this work for a few reasons. to save some money, just to see if i could actually do it, and possibly give a simple solution to others on here wanting A/C using the r4 compressor form their old motor. which this doesnt cost a thing with the exception of buying a few bolts and a new longer belt because everything is from one or the other motors. that being said here we go...

first we have to trim some fat off the bracket. first take off the tensioner and idler pullies and set them aside. then cut the lower and side portions of the bracket off and discard. i have a portable band saw which makes this really simple but a hack saw or sawzawl will work too, just takes more time im sure.


next you will need to notch the bracket. this will give clearance for the LS tensioner which is what will be used. this is where some of you may need to get creative. i used a hole saw (i think it was 2-1/2"). this was the most difficult part of the modifiction. i wish i could give an exact spot where to start the drill but just make sure outside of the notch ends up close to what you see in the pic. some touch up grinding may be necessary for clearance. i cut all the way to the back wall of the bracket. and no this dis not take away the structural integrity of it. it is still very sturdy.


Next you will need to remove the tensioner from the LS motor and take the pully off. this will need a trim also. first is the extra chunk on the front which normally sits behind the grooved pully. but we will be putting on a smooth pully from the old motor which will hit this unless cut off. again, portaband made this easy.

you can see where i cut above the pully

see how the front is all flat now?

pulley now has the clearance it needs

next will be to grind the back support down to about this angle. it clears fine with this little bit left. i left it because i wanted to keep as much support at possible


thats all the trimming needed, they are ready to go but we need to make a support brace first. it will be going from the pump bracket to the head. at the moment i am only using one brace and it seems to be very strong. but i may end up adding another going rearward if i start to see problems. i have all kinds of scrap metal laying around so i dug through and found a piece of 3/16-1/4" flat stock. i cut it around 6" long, drilled a hole in each end for the bolts and put about a 7/8" offset in it.


the third hole in the middle there was already in the steel but it doesnt affect anything.

now your ready to install all your parts. only other things you may need to buy if you dont have a pile of bolts by now is......
1- M10 x 1.5 x 90mm bolt (3 washers are required otherwise bolt will bottom out or you can cut tip off bolt)
1- M10 x 1.5 x 20mm bolt (i had this from some part off the LS)
1- 995k6 serpintine belt

you can now reinstall LS tensioner on water pump. you can leave the pulley off for now. next install 20mm-ish bolt trough brace into far right bolt hole in head and do not tighten yet. next put 90mm bolt (and washers) through bracket and install into top left bolt hole in head as shown. leave it loose also.


this is the reason for the big notch. fits nicely around the tensioner housing.

next put pump in bracket and push the three retaining bolts through. slip other end of brace over right hand side retaining bolt and install all three nuts. you may now crank everything down. this is what the brace looks like on the back of bracket.


now for the pullies. take the smaller idler pulley from the old motor, not the larger tensioner pulley, remove the bolt and spacer from it and set them aside. place the pulley where the grooved LS tensioner pulley went on the water pump. you will see why in a minute. the bearing diameters are the same so it will slip right over the boss and you will re use the LS bolt. but i had to put a washer on the back to space the pulley forward a bit because it was slightly touching. now take the grooved LS pulley, the bolt/spacer that you just set aside, and install it right where the old idler went. basically your just swapping the two pullies. tighten them down.

now your almost there. the last piece of the puzzle which took me two days of trial and error of different pulley configurations, and going in and out of two different autozones countless times trying to find the right size belt... ALL the work has been done for you! install the 995k6 belt with the following routing....



it does get really close to the coolant hose. so a support will need to be made.


now turn it on and enjoy your A/C!!!

[Mickeymotormount]

Nice write up 'Jay. You definitely were creative when it came to clearancing the old bracket. Looks great though. I'm sure others will be looking at this closely so they can use the original compressor if their systems were still in working order.

[bstill]

You should make a thread for this so that it can be stickied in the conversion section. Good job. It's nice to see someone think outside the box and save hundreds in the process.

[kewljay223]

thanks for the compliments guys. i thought about doing it before but wasnt sure if a starting a new thread was neccesary. but if you think it will be stickied, ill go ahead and do it. ill definately make some changes to it also with more detail and clean some confusion up.

[kewljay223]

so its been a while since i posted. just wanted to update a bit. havnt done much to the truck since getting the a/c working. my main concern after that was getting my exhaust completed and getting the CEL cleared so i can make an appointement with the REFEREE. i have had so many issues with getting the exhaust finsihed it was a nightmare. i wasnt sure what i was exactly allowed to do and so i finally went to the local ref station and walked right up to him and asked what i was supposed to do. he basically said i needed the stock exhaust and if it doesnt fit (like most jeeps dont he said) then im S-O-L. some miracle happened and i was able to find and snatch up the correct cats. i took them to the shop on firday and had the rest of the system finished up. looks really good and fits great, with a little tweaking of course.

that fixed one of my codes for o2 sensor out of range. funny how a super short exhaust can mess with the o2 sensor. but i still had two more.... the dreaded p0171 AND p0174.... i checked every vacuum hose possible and sprayed half a can of carb cleaner trying to find the damn leak(s). only thing i found were two small leaks on the #1 & 2 injectors. they are used #50ers that i installed and i didnt know at the time that the orings were supposed to be replaced when injectors were changed and that your supposed to lube them with a little bit of oil before installing.... well i had to force them in which stressed a few of them and casued the small leak. so i pulled the fuel rails and replaced all the orings and installed them the correct way this time. that fixed those leaks but i was still getting codes...

so i sacked up and bought the REDICULOUSLY OVERPRICED intake manifold gaskets. 80 bucks for the pair.... i figured i might have some leaks under the intake that i couldnt get my cleaner to. so thats what i did today. not hard and i could probably to it in half the time but i went real slow making sure i dont screw something up. well i just got back from a nice little cruise trying to get the readiness codes set and wouldnt you know it says im ready for testing!!!!!

so this week i will be cleaning up some things so it looks good and legit, and i will be making an appointment for this week or next. im super stoked but also nervous. i know everything on the truck works like it should and is what is required. but i just know that he will find some small thing to make me change just to show authority. so im not expecting to pass first time. but i know i can make this happen. i will def keep you all updated on the procedure.

here is what i did today. man it was super dirty under the intake.... cleaned up real nice though.


yes i know this isnt the ac-delco one from the dealer with the green gaskets. they are closed on sundays and ive never had a problem with FEL-PRO on any of my other vehicles. they seem to work great so far though!