First time swap. LQ9 into 95 OBS

[kewljay223]

once again you are the man. that last diagram is what i was hoping for. cant wait to do the swap..

lil update. i completely flushed the system today. i disconected the rad hoses and dumped the garden hose into the water neck and let the motor run. yes i did this in the morn after the truck sat overnight so the block wasnt hot. waited until it was pouring clear water out. then flushed the radiator also. then filled it up with garden hose water and some flush/cleaner crap from autozone thats supposed to run for 3 days to "supposedly" clean the system. so in a few days ill dump it all out again, and fill her up with some green antifreeze as suggested and the rest with distilled water along with putting the thermo back on. i really hope it will work correctly after that. if not, you know ill be back to ask where the hell i go from there.

also, mikey, you once again provided a suggestion that seems to be working. i took the PS cap off and ran the motor and looked inside. as you stated like yours was doing, i was seeing bubbles (airation) while my "T" was connected. i then disconnected the Tee, capped the top port, and ran the return straight to the center. the "whine" almost went away and there were no bubbles to be seen. the whine is basically gone. only time i hear it is when the motor is at a higher RPM. but as soon as it drops back down, all i can hear is the purdy purr of the 6-O. im not sure if thats normal tho. hows yours sound at higher RPM? i also still have the hood off so i can hear things a lot clearer if that makes a diff. you think i killed the bearings?

[Mickeymotormount]

Glad you got the diagram you needed. Hope GM didn't change anything from '99 to your year trans.

Concerning your pump bearings, I don't think you damaged them. They were still bathed in fluid even though it was aerated. The pump vanes could be a whole other issue. I would drive it for awhile to see if it clears up. Mine whines once in a great while at lower RPMs for a second or two. Nothing I'm concerned with.

I don't rev mine that much. Like to keep the engine speed down so I'm not dropping tranny parts out of the bottom onto the roadway. Not looking for a hot rod. Just like to drive it regularly.

[TexasEdition]

Great thread, and I'm appreciative you took the time to do this because it's helped me a ton. I've almost got my harness (for my 5.3) re-worked and made stand alone. My question is, how exactly do you get the fuel guage, speedo, tach, etc.. to work? My truck is a manual by the way. Not sure what this changes as far as making the speedo work. Do you have to tie in any of the the wires coming from the 5.3 PCM into the existing somehow?

[kewljay223]

Great thread, and I'm appreciative you took the time to do this because it's helped me a ton. I've almost got my harness (for my 5.3) re-worked and made stand alone. My question is, how exactly do you get the fuel guage, speedo, tach, etc.. to work? My truck is a manual by the way. Not sure what this changes as far as making the speedo work. Do you have to tie in any of the the wires coming from the 5.3 PCM into the existing somehow?

glad it helped. since you have a stick, im not familiar with how they are hooked up so you will just have to look through your wiring diagrams. it also depends what year truck your is. I THINK if its a 96 and later, then your new pcm will controll them. if its pre 96 then your everything stays same except tach which is hooked up to the new pcm. my speedo works but for some reason it is off now... i think i read somwhere that you can make adjustments in the drac box but i have to find that site again...

[kewljay223]

well my warrantee is officially up on the motor so it is what it is now. seems like i got a good one though. anyway, not much has happened lately. still havnt fixed the PRND light yet. still not sure how exactly but ill figure it when i get in there. but i did finally get my speedo calibrated. it was irritating the hell out of me that it was 10mph higher than i was actually going. i thought id share how in case anyone else has this issue.

i came acrross a site a while back and saved it thinking it might be usefull after the swap which im glad i did. but i guess i never knew that it wasnt correct since i never compared it to gps anything. the wheels were not stock when i got the truck and the 20's i put on im sure are not even close to stock either. anyway, my speedo is only off by 1mph now no matter what speed and that is good enought for me. its a very simple fix if you know how to solder.

heres the site that has an in depth explanation http://www.tbichips.com/drac/ all you need to do is relocate a few jumpers around which will change the calibration. but its better to install DIP switches in place of the jumpers that way if your calcs are wrong, all you have to do is flip a few switches to adjust (which i had to do a few times to get it right) instead of having to re-solder a bunch of times.

my pics are basically the same as his. just wanted to show a bit more detail here tho.

this is just after i removed all but one of the jumpers. #1 on right bank always stays. a solder vacume makes it SUPER easy to clean the holes out.


DIP switches that will replace the jumpers


DIP switches installed and set to the position my calculations told me. they were changed a few times after some test driving.


i was skeptical at first about this because i havnt seen anybody else mention it but i figured what the hell. and i can confirm this is a legit solution if you are still using your DRAC/VSSB box and your speedo is not reading correct. im good at soldering so the jumper removal/dip install only took me about 15 min. it takes longer to remove/install that sucker from behind the glove box! hope this helps somone.

[Mickeymotormount]

That's a great fix. Not real big into electronics, but that's definitely cool. I'm sure that will help out alot of guys.

[kewljay223]

had a few codes pop up. one being MAF sensor out of range. didnt even know "MAF cleaner" existed and that only it or electronic cleaner is the only thing that can be used. glad i read up on that first before busting out the acetone!! haha but the cleaner fixed that right up. had a knock sensor code pop up then disapear then again and now its been gone for about a week... idk what the deal with that is... the last one i have is o2 sensor out of range but since everything is new, im assuming its casued by the massive exhaust leaks i have in my temporary setup. im betting that will go away when i get the full exhaust installed. wanted to know if anybody could explain why an exhaust leak would freak the sensor out like that? the exhaust leak btw is BEHIND the sensor.... everything before them i sealed all the way around.

[kewljay223]

just a lil cool thing to show. especially to you mickey since you were interested in the digital dash but this is just my scanner, not the actual dash display software. just driving home from work tonight keeping an eye on things and thought i take a pic for you guys. but i like to watch the gauges. mpg is pretty good for being a 6.0!! way better than the TBI. loving this motor more and more every time i drive.

[Mickeymotormount]

Nice. That's one heck of a scanner. Neat...

[Mickeymotormount]

Nice. That's one heck of a scanner. Neat...