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Thread: Hrv- sierra 95 rcsb

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    160
    Tried cranking the engine over again. Watched to see if oil is coming out of rockers. Want to make sure on where I'm suppose to be looking. Got a picture below on where I think oil is to come out of. Where the pencil is pointing. One other thing, the 95 manual mentions that the oil pressure gets up to 6 lbs. when at 1000rpm. Would that be the reason that my gauge pressure doesn't come up? The gauge reads zero when cranking, but it comes up to the second white line when its off. What do you guys think? Got a picture of it too.


    Last edited by HRV-LS1; 10-15-2012 at 11:56 AM.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    warwick ny
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    247
    Do a continuity test from oil pressure sennsor body to ground to see if you have a good ground.You could also put a mechanical gauge in for know just to make sure you have oil pressure.My truck has 40 psi at idle 700 rpms.If i remember correctly oil pressure went up that high while cranking motor with computer disconnected when i first installed engine to make sure i had oil pressure.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southern California
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    160
    Quote Originally Posted by gagliano7 View Post
    Do a continuity test from oil pressure sennsor body to ground to see if you have a good ground.You could also put a mechanical gauge in for know just to make sure you have oil pressure.My truck has 40 psi at idle 700 rpms.If i remember correctly oil pressure went up that high while cranking motor with computer disconnected when i first installed engine to make sure i had oil pressure.
    Did a continuity test of ground on the sensor, its good. Got a mech. gauge yesterday but, doesn't have the right adaptor. Ordered one, got to wait for it. Gagliano, the 95 manual mentions oil pressure at 1000rpm to be 6 lbs. So I'm wondering if its at all supposed to get any pressure simply by cranking it over. Somebody mentioned to start it up. If I do start it, for how long should I wait until it builds up?

  4. #24
    Your not going to see much oil pressure if any oil pressure on the gauge cranking it over. The starter wont turn it over fast enough. Just pull your coil packs, and turn it over for 15-20 sec. Then plug your coil packs back in and fire it up. Your lifters may tap for just a sec until they prime up. You should see oil pressure in a sec or two on the gauge. If the motor was assembled correctly you should have enough assembly lube to no hurt any bearings.
    91 RCSB-- Forged LS7 bottom end, ported LS3 heads, ported LS3 intake, custom EPS cam and a 4l80e.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    160
    Quote Originally Posted by bow tie klr View Post
    Your not going to see much oil pressure if any oil pressure on the gauge cranking it over. The starter wont turn it over fast enough. Just pull your coil packs, and turn it over for 15-20 sec. Then plug your coil packs back in and fire it up. Your lifters may tap for just a sec until they prime up. You should see oil pressure in a sec or two on the gauge. If the motor was assembled correctly you should have enough assembly lube to no hurt any bearings.
    Thanks for the help bow tie klr! I'll try your suggestion. It also sounds right to me too.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    160
    Today got my adaptor. Hooked up the oil pressure gauge, and still nothing. I thought it would be like that. Engine doesn't turn enough to create enough pressure. Will continue putting the swap together. One question, I snugged my intake down. Scared that the threads might strip if I tighten them to spec. I tightened my rear oil pan screws to spec and stripped them both. Lesson learned with that. Do you think I might have vacuum problems later because I snugged the intake screws down?

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Medford, OR
    Posts
    142
    Are you reading inch lbs and torqueing to foot lbs? If I recall, the manifold is torqued to inch lbs....

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southern California
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    160
    Quote Originally Posted by ccreddell View Post
    Are you reading inch lbs and torqueing to foot lbs? If I recall, the manifold is torqued to inch lbs....

    I'm reading it in inch pounds. When I torqued the rear pan bolts, got to about 5 foot pounds, then they stripped. There suppose to be torqued to 109 inch pounds which is roughly 7.3 lbs. Thats why I'm concerened about the intake bolts, there at 89 inch pounds. Snugging those too. If theres a leak, I'll just tighten them a little more. By the way, the valve covers are also at 109 inch pounds. Will snug those down too. If they leak, snug down some more. I paid $65 for somebody to install threaded inserts when I stripped the pan bolts, so I'm kind of careful as to how much I'm going to tighten these bolts.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    160
    Got a question. Want to mount my ecu to the passenger side fender well, but don't want to use that plastic piece it sits in. Does anybody have something for sale or could make me something for the ecu to sit in? Got a picture of mine.


    It's roughly 9.5 by 7.
    Last edited by HRV-LS1; 10-22-2012 at 09:14 PM.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    160
    When I was hooking up the battery ( positive) noticed the extra red wire . Anyone know
    what its used for?

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