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Thread: stall install problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    142

    stall install problem

    its a 4l60 with a brand new stall. when i put the trans back in and get all the bell housing bolts tight. i started on the converter bolts i can tighten the first one down then turn the motor over with a socket and get the second one but when i it comes to the third one it bindes up nd will not turn at all. it just dead stops not allowing me to install the third bolt, so i tryed taken the two i tightened back out and now it cant roll it over far enough to reach both that is tightened now, i can olny get one.

    any ideas on why it would lockup like that and can i take the trans out with the converter bolted to the flywheel still

    Hand p&p heads, 219-227 .607 .613, pacesetter, tbss intake, 92mm t-body, cai, e-fans, 14 bolt, 4.56, true trac, pi 2800, 33's, 4l80e built by me
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Crossett,Ar
    Posts
    2,382
    I've see a motor pulled while verter was still attached to flywheel. But not a tranny dropped with verter on flywheel still...
    As far as this issue goes on the bolts. I ran into same thing. U have to get all three started. Once they are good and snug u can tighten them

    06 Intimidator SS- Tuned, CAI -DD
    03 Silverado- Last incarnation 13.6... RIP
    Ls1, Pnp heads, Polluter camshaft, spray, 4k stall on the way
    "Seize the day like you seize your noodle" - Shin Chan

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Odessa, texas
    Posts
    916
    I wouldn't pull the transmission without pulling the converter too...if you left it on the motor it would be difficult to seat the converter into the transmission
    1983 Ford Ranger- 2.3 to 205k mile 6.0 swap

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    142
    ill take the converter off after i get the trans out. i just cant get to the third bolt on the verter to take it out with the trans

    Hand p&p heads, 219-227 .607 .613, pacesetter, tbss intake, 92mm t-body, cai, e-fans, 14 bolt, 4.56, true trac, pi 2800, 33's, 4l80e built by me
    In the makin
    Boost.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    754
    So you're saying something is binding up in the motor or trans not allowing it to rotate a full 360 degrees right?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    Sounds like the converter is not seated properly on the pump or you have a wrong style converter on the transmission. The old style had a pilot about half inch in diam. New style input shaft doesnt have the pilot. If you have the right converter check that the pilot going in the center of the crank isnt dinged. Test fit the converter to the flexplate without the trans.
    Last edited by RedHeartbeat; 03-28-2011 at 11:19 AM.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    142
    So you're saying something is binding up in the motor or trans not allowing it to rotate a full 360 degrees right?
    ya thats whats going on, i know it not the motor and the trans was good when i took it out, how many clicks does the converter have to click on before its on properly

    Hand p&p heads, 219-227 .607 .613, pacesetter, tbss intake, 92mm t-body, cai, e-fans, 14 bolt, 4.56, true trac, pi 2800, 33's, 4l80e built by me
    In the makin
    Boost.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Broken Bow, OK
    Posts
    1,434
    You should feel 2 pronounced engagements when you put it on.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    754
    Yeah some say two some say three. I just did mine again and it was a solid two.

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