Sean's (beingblueeyes) Garage

[beingblueeyes]

Well I think its a little past time to start my garage but timing has never been my strong point
Alls I want from my truck is a reliable and safe ride that is as good on the auto cross track as it is on the 1/8 winterport drag strip. I’m just going to list the mods I have done and what I need to "complete" that area


04 Silverado RCSB 5.3 4x4
Motor mods: Autolite XP iridium, 8.5mm wires, pace setter LT's, magnaflow 2-1, magnaflow cat, all 3 inch exh, magnaflow XL3 muf, 2x E-fan, 34" core rad, 180 thermostat, CAI, Un-screened maf, 02 ls6 cam, ls6 springs, ROLLMASTER double roller, ported&increased psi oil pump, tbss intake manifold, tb spacer, ported 87mm tb, truck dedicated zeitronix wb, tuned by me
Motor mods needed:adjustable roller rockers
Trans mods: Corvette Servo w/2 spacers, Hayden 678 cooler, Transgo HD-2, Transgo separator plate, Sonnax pinless forward accumulator piston, 1-2 aluminum accumulator piston, the "beast", raybestos stage 1, TB converter
Trans mods needed:NONE
Suspension mods: Denali rims 265/60/18, 3/4 drop, rear sway bar, djm 6 degree pinion shims, traction bars
Suspension mods needed:front sway bar, better shocks on front corners, maybe some bushing work
Brake mods:hydroboost, Drilled and slotted rotors, braided brake lines
Brake mods needed:NONE
Interior mods: new speakers, sony CDX-GT510
Interior mods needed:NONE
Exterior mods: HID 8k low beam, HID 3k fog lights, 4 beam, Tail gate lock, red alm lugs, battery relocated to the bed
Exterior mods needed:full size extra tire

parts that need to be installed:

parts for trans temp conversion

jonesing for:
lq4

[beingblueeyes]

Well after jinxing my trans by saying “I’m done with it until it blows” its time for a rebuild so after taking the transmission out today I fabed up a transmission rebuilding stand. This is the second one I have built; the first trans stand I built saw a 700r4 and a trans out of a 4L jeep (cant recall the # off the top of my head)
It was free to build with some oil tube from home depot I hade kicking around here from another project but if I hade to put a price on it maybe 10$ in parts and some time with the chop saw and welder (I’m a Hobart fan)



I also found what I wanted to tie the rims into my paint because buying new rims isn’t in the budget, I found some alm. red lug nuts. They are much lighter then stock @ 18 grams each (stock being 84 grams each) for a total weight per rim w/6 lugs of 108 grams (stock was 504 grams). This will translate into better stopping and faster acceleration, do I think I will notice a difference? NO but I like they way they look on the truck

[beingblueeyes]

Well after take apart the transmission/checking the specs on some peaces and laying everything out so I can work with out being in my own way. I then went in side and went to Oregon performance transmission, I have done biz with them in the past and I know I can relay on them for spot on orders and fast shipping. I ended up going with
4L60E Beast Sun Gear Shell
4L60E HIGH PERFORMANCE MASTER REBUILD
13 Vane Pump

[beingblueeyes]

After power washing it and painting it (I know only me and my inspection tech will see it but I like the idea of it painted.) I got my parts wed night, the rebuild was started. There were ups and downs but the part I hade the hardest time with (I always do) the input drum. I can never get it lined up right so I end up having to turning it for over an hr. and with the added clutches it makes it even harder. My wrist still hurts. Its done now and ready to be installed.

[beingblueeyes]

I’ve put over 200 miles on the trans and it always shocks me on how after a rebuild how much of a difference a fresh trans makes in shift speed/feel. Today I took the time to install a rear sway bar. The install is very straight forward. I also installed a set of drop keys, since I live in the sticks and no one around here rents a torsion key clamp and I didn’t want to destroy a big C clamp I fabed my own tool to be used on my floor jack. I used some ½ inch square tube and a ball bearing. Using the tool was easy, all that needed was to remove the bolt on the torsion key adjuster- rise the jack up so the ball bearing was on the key notch and jack the key up off the adjuster-remove the adjuster- lower the jack=BAM out with the old.

[beingblueeyes]

installed lt's and fabracated the rest of the exh.
a clip of lt's with cat and no muff
http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=MOV01341.mp4

[ls1ram]

What broke in the transmission? smoked 3-4? or any broken parts?

[beingblueeyes]

the oil pump is what killed it but after stripping it down all the clutches wouldn't have last to much longer

[beingblueeyes]

4 bolt truck intake swap log
I found this for 155 shipped, one on the studs is bent and it has a broken tube on top (anyone know what it gos too?) but is has all the sensors/fuel rail/injectors w/pig tails


I also found a 4 bolt truck throttle body for $22 shipped!
just picked up a 12574221 tac for 42.11 shipped
Caspers Electronics GM LS2 Throttle Body Wiring Harness Adapter $44.95

started porting the truck 87mm body, i have most of the alm. off that i want to remove. alls thats left is finish porting/polish/knife the butterfly valve/reassemble/grind down screw's



after looking at the tbss manifold and how oil covered the inside is im going to delete the pcv system on my truck, ive done a lot of reading on the pros and cons of it...the pros out way the cons. i have also done this on many of my past cars without any long term problems. only air and fuel should be in the combustion chamber. i was looking at the Caspers Electronics peace that replaces the oil fill cap but at $40+ its not worth it in my mind so im going to make my own spin of the Caspers Electronics peace for under $15....stay tuned

well that intake is gone...fell off the top shelf and smacked the concrete floor and cracked the top of it. to keep the ball rolling i found a real TBSS intake manifold, i then moded the fuel rails buy cutting the mounting tabs off and re-welding them in the correct places and since the weather is still kinda cold here i powder coated the rails/cross over/spacer and TB



here is the finished project (killing time until xlink comes in)

[beingblueeyes]

This is a basic how-to on making a oil cap breather, so before I begin just a word of warning
*I am not responsible for anything thing that happens to your motor as a result of building this or any injury’s acquired when building this

Now that that’s out of the way let’s begin. There are other company’s out there that make a oil cap breather but charge $40+ for them. You yes YOU can built one for sub 15$ if you have some tools at your disposal amf about 15 min of your time
Parts needed:
all parts from Summit racing
MRG-6375 VC BREATHER GROMMET CLOSED $2.25
SUM-G3417 BREATHER PUSHIN COTTON/GAUZE $10.95

Tools needed:
Drill press or drill
1” wood hole bit
Something to enlarge a plastic hole (1 ¼ drill bit would speed up making this by 10 min)

Tools is used:



1: take the oil cap you want to make a breather out of and using the 1 inch wood hole bit drill throw the oil cap using the inside to center the bit

2: from the top side of the oil cap start to enlarging the hole for the grommet until it is 1 1/4 inches across (this doesn’t need to be exact but the closer the better, take your time doing this and test fit the grommet and breather periodically

3: after you enlarge the hole in the top of the oil fill cap so you can insert the grommet and then the breather cut a hole in the bottom of the grommet.


4: clean the oil cap and make sure you have all the plastic shaving out of it
5: assemble and enjoy the money you just saved by putting it in your “next upgrade” fund


installed the hid fog light conversion today in good old maine 7 degree weather
stock

HID goodness