Just wondering if anyone has any experience with these and the in's and out's... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hN-2yxM7RqM
Just wondering if anyone has any experience with these and the in's and out's... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hN-2yxM7RqM
RUN WAT U BRUNG!!!!
they're pretty big on imports....not sure if they are necessary/ really do much.
A larger capacitor would be more useful if you're really worried about voltage spikes. i was half tempted to mount a big one in the 2nd battery location, just because it annoys me when I turn on my lights/efans and the voltage drops down to like 13 for a second in the truck. I've never noticed a drop at WOT though.
blown transmissions are about as useful as 97% of the guys on this forum
I have a 1.5 farad capacitor for sale brand new in the package still. Its just takign up space.
1951 3100
1984 C10
Then I guess some added grounding cables would be the best so far then.
RUN WAT U BRUNG!!!!
I ran a cable from - on battery to alternator bracket. One from + on battery straight to alternator, and one from frame to engine to ground it. Helped a little. I'd say about .2-.3 volts.
blown transmissions are about as useful as 97% of the guys on this forum
hade one on one of the Camry’s I own (95 camry ITB’s 10.5.1 cr).the only change worth noting was it made it so when I was braking the high beams didn’t dim.....as much....after taking it apart it was just 3 capacitors on a board with a resistor.
Looks like a gimmick to me. The on the newer trucks when the voltage regulator kicks off the whole alternator freewheels until it gets down to 12 volts again, that might free up some power. I can't see something that's not inline in the circuit doing anything but preventing voltage spikes.
On my truck I ran grounds from my - battery terminal to the alt bracket, the frame, and the firewall, all in 2 gauge. Good mod, my own take on the Big-3 mod. She started much easier at -60F, but if I go back to UAF this year I'm dumping the red top and switching to two solenoid isolated blue tops.