How Hard Is This Guys?rating It 1-10 10 Being Hard...ive Changed Trannys/clutches Etc But Have Never Swapped A Stall Converter.i Know I Can Do It,just Wanted Some Tips And Info.
How Hard Is This Guys?rating It 1-10 10 Being Hard...ive Changed Trannys/clutches Etc But Have Never Swapped A Stall Converter.i Know I Can Do It,just Wanted Some Tips And Info.
If you have changed a tranny you can do this. Pretty much the same thing.
2wd? easy
01 ecsb 5.3 4x4 z71
Avalanche 17s and a pant load of miles
61 Corvette
350, 4 speed, 4.56's
32 Ford 4 door sedan
keeping it "stockish"
yea ive changed trannys but manuals only.yea on my 08'2wd
its pretty easy but takes a handful of tools to do it.
Anyone have access to a manual with the exact specifics on exactly how to do it in a stock vehicle? I've done it so many times I don't think about it while I'm under there.
prep new convertor by pouring 1/2 to 1 quart of trans fluid inside it and let it set for 1/2 hour minimum.
I remove...
battery ground
starter
3 torque converter bolts
exhaust xover pipe from manifolds and remove from rear half
driveshaft
heat shield on pass side of trans
electical connectors, main and speedo
trans cooler hoses
shifter cable
support trans with jack and remove trans xover
remove all trans bolts, I use a 4' long extension to get the ratchet near the tailshaft where there's room.
remove dipstick tube
grab a buddy and slide trans out
put an oil catch tray under front of trans and pull stock convertor
inspect the front o-ring on the input shaft and replace if damaged any at all(good to replace it just for safety's sake. put lube on it bofore installing.)
replace front seal if it looks like it was leaking
Slide new convertor onto trans, rotate and push at the same time, you'll feel it thunk as it finds its way home. Make sure its all the way in, measure from the bell housing to the bolt lugs and compare the distance to that of the flywheel to where the bellhousing bolts to the block.
reverse instructions to reinstall
start engine and cycle the trans through all gears. Let idle and check fluid level before attempting to drive.
Last edited by RedHeartbeat; 02-13-2010 at 09:58 PM.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
thanks red
From Vince at FLT (finish line transmissions)
This topic of discussion seems to be one that I constantly get asked. With the help of Terry of Precision Industries aka Vig converters I wanted to post this. This text is what comes with all converters that they have built in the past few weeks. I feel that it is good stuff and wanted to share with all of you. Here it is.
Torque Converter Installation
1. Using a lift or jack stands raise car off the ground far enough to be able to slide transmission out from under the vehicle.
2. After the vehicle is raised, drain the transmission fluid into a drain pan by removing the pan bolts from the rear half of the pan then slowly loosen the remaining bolts to allow pan to tilt down towards the ground allowing the fluid to drain into the drain pan.
3. Remove the battery cable, starter (if necessary), driveshaft, torque converter bolts, exhaust (if
necessary), cross member and all of the transmission bolts except for one near the dowel pin.
4. Raise the transmission up slightly by placing a suitable transmission jack under the transmission.
5. Remove the last bellhousing bolt and remove the transmission.
6. Check the flexplate for cracks and chipped teeth on the ring gear. Take the new torque converter and hold it against the flexplate to see if the application is correct by checking that the pilot size and bolt circle are correct.
7. Add a quart of new transmission fluid to the torque converter. Using the aid of a helper, stand the transmission on the tail shaft and carefully install the torque converter onto the transmission. Spin the torque converter and listen for 3 distinct clicks as it drops into the transmission. The following are measurements you can make to insure the torque converter is all the way in the transmission:
GM-TH350, Powerglide=1.125" from bellhousing to the converter pads.
GM TH400 = 1.187" from bellhousing to converter pads.
GM 700 R4, 4L60E, 200-4R = 1.125" from bellhousing to converter pads.
GM 4L80E = 1.030" from bellhousing to converter pads.
Distance may vary +/- .050".
8. Remove any debris in the crankshaft pilot hole and lubricate. Clean and lubricate the dowel pins. Check to see that dowel pins will be in the transmission bellhousing by more than .250".
9. Mount transmission to the back of the engine block making sure the bellhousing fits squarely against the block. If it does not, find out why! Is there something between the bellhousing and block or has the torque converter slipped out of the transmission? DO NOT PULL UP THE
BELLHOUSING TO THE BLOCK USING THE BELLHOUSING BOLTS!!!!
10.After the transmission bellhousing bolts are tightened, check to see if the torque converter will turn by hand. Push the torque converter back into the transmission as far as it will go. Using feeler gauges or calipers measure the gap between the flexplate converter mounting pad and the torque converter mounting pad. If gap distance is between .060" and .187" it is OK to bolt up the torque converter. If the gap is greater than .187" install a .060" flat washer between the torque converter and flexplate.
11. Finish installing the cross member, exhaust, driveshaft, etc. Add 5 quarts of good quality transmission fluid. Start the engine and immediately add 2 more quarts. Check the fluid and finish filling the transmission to proper level.[/QUOTE]