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Thread: The Science of Slicks

  1. #1
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    The Science of Slicks

    Well I should be getting some slicks here in a few weeks and I want to understand the science behind selecting the right ones.

    The question pertains to selecting the right size and width so that you have just the right tire to not lose MPH in the track and not have to small (in diameter) of a slick.

    Also whats better and why for someone with my setup:

    Drag Radial
    ET Streets
    Slicks

    I just want to buy the right tire for my setup and knowing that its going to help me and not hurt me. I have some stock 16'' wheels that I can mount them to if that helps with anything.

    Thanks,
    david
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  2. #2
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    Autos without a trans brake shock the tires less than side stepping the clutch on a manual shift. The heavier the vehicle and the more shock on initial launch, the stiffer the sidewall needs to be. Most trucks are heavy enough to benefit from stiffer sidewalls....not just for the launch but for top end stability.

    Since I have only run street tires and full bias slicks in my days, I'll defer to others on direct contrasts and comparisons on the selections in the middle ground on actual feel.

    Besides weight, gear ratio plays a part in sizing...especially the diameter. Most people choose the widest tire that fits the vehicle AND the wheel and adjust the height to match gear ratio and weight. My proven theory is that the more power and/or weight yoy have, the more diameter you need. It's important to remember that the intent is to move forward. That being said, most tires don't get wider under power.....but they do get "longer" as the rear of the tread resists pulling away from the surface all the while engine power is pushing the front of the tread into the ground. Tires grow "forward" more the taller they are.

    No, don't kill gear ratio for this help if you have higher (numerically lower) gears.

    On a truck, I would not run anything less than 28" tall unless I didn't have much power AND I had 3.23 or worse gears.

    I'd probably go with a 28 X 10.5W ET Steet or an equivalent sized Drag Radial....all while remembering you're looking for something to only run at the track.

  3. #3
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    What if my suspension is going to stay as is for a while. I understand the concept I guess of the larger tire with more gears. So I guess a 27 or 28 inch tall DR would be my best bet? I dont think im going to mess with my gears at all because I really do enjoy runs on the freeway
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quik View Post
    not suspension as in height bud. as in Pinion angle, snubbers, bars or etc.
    Oh well yeah. Maybe next weekend ill get jon to help me measure it to check out my pinion angle. If slicks dont help my traction problems with 10lbs, then ill have to look into cal tracs
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  5. #5
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    lol thats why I posted this thread. to find out more. Ill check it this next weekend and go from there I guess. If I can do minor things like adjust my pinion angle, change my POS shocks I have, and hook well on the street and strip i think ill be in good shape
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  6. #6
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    quik, gassguzzler, man thats some damn good info, as i just purchased my slicks the other day, went with hoosiers 28 c07 rubber, sorry ducky dont mean to high jack your thread but this is a damn good topic.. anyway knowing ducky is more turbo then his gearing would be lower, which is needed for the turbo? correct? if this is, is it cause of the torque, and his power band up in the higher RPMS? guess i trying to figure if my tire choice was correct, as i really was thinking of a tall tire like 30 to 33 and width being wider, i know my gears are to low as 3.73s but i am changing to 4.10s soon, wonder if i should have went or stepped up to 4.52 or something, taking weight of truck into concideration also.. ducky being a rcsb vs. ecsb!!! dunno i been trying to find some info about what has been posted, ducky you must be reading my mind lol as i was gonna post something about this earlier
    Simple: 408 on steroids!
    single digits coming soon!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeet View Post
    quik, gassguzzler, man thats some damn good info, as i just purchased my slicks the other day, went with hoosiers 28 c07 rubber, sorry ducky dont mean to high jack your thread but this is a damn good topic.. anyway knowing ducky is more turbo then his gearing would be lower, which is needed for the turbo? correct? if this is, is it cause of the torque, and his power band up in the higher RPMS? guess i trying to figure if my tire choice was correct, as i really was thinking of a tall tire like 30 to 33 and width being wider, i know my gears are to low as 3.73s but i am changing to 4.10s soon, wonder if i should have went or stepped up to 4.52 or something, taking weight of truck into concideration also.. ducky being a rcsb vs. ecsb!!! dunno i been trying to find some info about what has been posted, ducky you must be reading my mind lol as i was gonna post something about this earlier
    lol no worries man. Its been on my mind for quite some time and I just didnt want to make the wrong decision when I go to buy some times, and I wanted to understand why i was buying the size I was going to decide on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Quik View Post
    turbo gearing is different hten NA or supercharger or N20.

    those 3 want to be thru rpms as fast as possible. but with a turbo you want to load the turbo. more resistance more heat. more heat better spool. better spool faster vehicle. there is a point where you can go to high or too low of a gear with a turbo.

    at 9psi my 4.88s were a nice gear. thy allowed me to go thru rpms nicely. i cranked it up to 13 and 4.88s are too much. at 18psi its just stupid. i know i need 410s. [im 6peed with 30"tall tires. most turbo M6 cars run 3.50 gears with 26" tall tire so it equals out. this means i can trap 148 if i need that and it might happen with the 408]
    yeah I understand that loading the turbo is better and the whole heat thing. lol thats why I get a little frowny face when i think about spool time and my rear mount. its not BAD but its not as quick as id like
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  8. #8
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    you boost addit lol was hoping to get on topic about a NA truck lol no biggy though i understand what youre saying though, i'll do some research and see what i can come up with, like most people on the net that just pic and choose cause of what they see or read can also falter what one may try to accomplish.. on a side note FI isnt in my plans but nitruos just might


    ok ducky you can have your thread back !!!!
    Last edited by skeet; 10-25-2008 at 07:48 PM.
    Simple: 408 on steroids!
    single digits coming soon!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quik View Post
    well what question was yours then?

    not really a question quik, just thoughts and know hows on to accomplish what ducky started, per tire or slick to choose vs gear pinion angle so forth, i'm fortunate after putting my 2 piece back in and lowering the truck 3x4 i still have no vibration, drives and rides really good.. basically i was just looking for input as to what slicks to get for a NA setup pushing 400+ to the pavement. basically just trying to comphrend the choice of gears. you know why this gear why that gear. but in the same thought as to what tire ?


    hmmm did that make sense lol
    Simple: 408 on steroids!
    single digits coming soon!

  10. #10
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    see ducky i told you you just needed more boost.With slicks on now you wont have any excuses at the track.

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