<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(kwkenuf @ Aug 8 2006, 09:37 AM) [snapback]60394[/snapback]</div>Whaddaya mean? What do ya call this?A couple of us have been down that road. I used the stock manifolds and clearanced the frame in the offending areas. Nothing major. I don't have a pic of that area on my photocket site (link in sig) but I'll try to put something up soon. I've been told that LS1 F-body manfolds hug the block closer and are not as much a problem as the truck manifolds. Haven't seen a set installed on a ROBS truck however.[/b]
I will say this... I used the truck manifold on the passenger side b/c the LS1 style manifold would force me to not be able to use stock trans lines. Since I already notched the frame prior to receiving the LS1 manifolds, I left it as is. Now the driver side (shown above) is an LS1 manifold. That fits PERFECTLY! Below is a pic of the passenger side w/ truck manifold:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(kwkenuf @ Aug 8 2006, 05:14 PM) [snapback]60439[/snapback]</div>Driveline shops are pretty low in cost. If you have a shop nearby, go with it. Like kwkenuf said, that's the easy part.Yup, the driveshaft is the easy part, as long as you have a good shop nearby..... I had my 2003 Silverado shaft cut to length, new u-joints installed front and rear, changed the rear yoke to match my 12 bolt and had it balanced for $100. And this was at a local shop that is known for it's quality work, not it's low prices.
The driveline that came out of my 65 was from a long tailshaft T-400 and was actually too short for my swap.
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