Engine swap in a 2001 SilveradoThis is a step-by-step removal and replacement of the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0L trucks. This is intended to be a guide and you should double check your manual when you do this (I sure did). One of the things that I did was write down every thing that I unbolted on a pad of paper, that way, when I went back to install everything, I had a 2nd list to double check (in addition to this).
'01 4.8L to '07(classic) 6.0L
Step 0. Take a lot of pictures of your engine, this will come in handy with the little things like routing that you seem to overlook when you are looking at the engine everyday.
Step 1. Unbolt the exhaust, preferably all the way past the trans cross member. the exhaust collector has 3-15mm bolts holding it. Long extension needed or recommended. When you do this remember to unbolt the EGR and any O2 sensors.
Step 2. Remove the crossbars. This gives you some free space.
Step 3. Next is the engine cover, 10mm nuts hold this on. Then the radiator shroud comes out when you take the 2 10mm bolts from the top of the shroud and the four pull-pins where the upper and lower part of the shroud connects.
Step 4. Now put nuts/bolt in a tray/ziplock bag/muffin pan whatever you prefer but mark then accordingly.
Step 5. Remove the intake tube
Step 6. Now the fan belt, use a 36mm wrench to twist the nut against the cranking rotation of the belt. Do not remove the belt before doing this. The belt will hold the water pump shaft in place while you loosen the fan nut. The fan but may be stuck so I pipe wrench on the nut and whacking it with a rubber mallet has always worked for me. If you have electric fans, it may be easier to pull them after #11.
Step 7. Now drain the coolant.
Step 8. Loosen the hose clamps on both ends of the air tube assy and the hose clip on the passenger side of the radiator.
Step 9. Pull the upper radiator hose on the engine off. The clamps will not slide on the hoses, just so you know.
Step 10. Lower radiator hose and 2 heater hoses, Radiator hook may be needed here.
Step 11. Throttle body heater line at the TB.
Step 12. After this I would put a piece of wood between the engine and radiator, because it makes removal that much easier because you don't have to worry about any of the pulleys dinging the radiator. Saved me more than once.
Step 13. Remove the throttle cable, hold at WOT & unhook the cable. Remove the anchor as well, push the 2 tangs on the anchor and pull it out.
Step 14. Now starting on the Harness, TPS plug and alternator plug and a second alternator wire go next. You can also remove the two bolts holding the bracket that secures red battery junction.
Step 15. Now take the EVAP solenoid wire connectors and air temp senders. These are located right behind the TB.
Step 16. Upper cover bracket for the intake man, 3 10mm bolts hold it on. This is the bracket that holds the two throttle cable and provides the back mounting points for the intake cover. You can see it in the top of the picture in step 15.
Step 17. Pull brake booster hose from the housing. It's a good idea to pump the brakes until the "power" wears out to make sure you don't have any pressure when you take that air hose off.
Step 18. The main wire harness clip needs to be unhooked. Screwdriver works to pop those clips open.
Step 19. Disconnect the clip that plugs into the coil pack, there is one on each side of the engine.
Step 20. Remove the coil plugs on both sides of the engines, you will have 8 total. (I didn't do this, but you can if you feel like it)
Step 21. Remove the Intake Manifold to get to the Knock sensor jumper wires unless you have it tagged or know it. (I didn't do this, but it may make those top two trans bolts easier. I just disconnected the knock sensor harness on the top back of the intake.)
Step 22. Fuel injector wiring harness. Just take your time and play with it a minute. You have to pull the blue outside piece up (and preferably off the plug portion) and then depress the tab to release the plug.
Step 23. Fuel lines, disconnect the to and from or feed and return lines. You should release the pressure first, open the gas cap and open the pressure relief valve on the passenger side of the crossover tube. Do not lose the clips. You'll need the special fuel line tool for this. be sure you have it. Have a rag to catch the extra gas that comes out when you release the pressure.
Step 24. Now pull the water temp sensor wire on the driver's side of the block. Towards the front BTW. You can see it just to the left of the first exhaust port below.
Step 25. Remove the MAP connector. It's on top of the intake towards the back.
Step 26. You can now remove the oil sending unit sensor, and cam position sensor as well, they are behind the intake on the top of the block. You can see these in the step 25 picture, on the drivers side of the block, one looks similar to the MAP connector(cam pos) and the other has a piece of tape on it and it is a little further outboard. Check to make sure your new and old engine had the same oil sending connector. Mine didn't and I had to swap out the sensor.
Step 27. Now we can take off the belt. Use the tensioner with a 15mm wrench.
Step 28. Power steering pump and alternator. You don't need to take the pulley off, you can just take the bracket that hold the PS pump and alternator and lay it off to the side. Take the 4 15mm Hex headed bolts out, 3 on the pump and 1 on the bracket. Keep up with bolts again.
Step 29. Now zip-tie the PS pump & alt to the inner fender well out of the way. It will stay there until we reinstall the engine.
Step 30. AC, do the same with the AC compressor. 2 15mm Hex bolts on the side of the pump, and 2 on the bottom. Zip-tie it out of the way on the pass side.
Step 31. Starter, 2 -13mm bolts and a 10mm bolt holding the flex plate access cover. You may have to play with it to get the starter out, time and patience my friend. There are also 2 wires bolted to the motor, remove those and place the nuts back on the starter.
Step 32. Now, while you're still under there, take the oil level connector off the oil pan and remove the 10mm bolt holding the harness in the middle of the passenger side. You can also remove the crank sensor at this time. There are also a harness on the front of the oil pan and a bracket on the passenger side you can detach.
Keywords: 4.8 5.3 6.0 Swap Engine Ground Straps Oil Sending Unit Accessory Plugs Won't Start Fuel Pressure Regulator Tranny Transmission Bolts
Full Size Pictures: 4.8 to 6.0 Engine Swap
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