Can anyone tell me a pretty good step by step of how to install one. I know to heat it up and slide it on, but I wanna make sure I dont f*ck nothing up in doing that. Any suggestions would help out.
Thanks,
david
Can anyone tell me a pretty good step by step of how to install one. I know to heat it up and slide it on, but I wanna make sure I dont f*ck nothing up in doing that. Any suggestions would help out.
Thanks,
david
1951 3100
1984 C10
Honestly, I haven't found a GM manual yet that says to heat or warm one up. I use a piece of all thread that is cut off longer than a factory bolt and draw it on with a ratchet. That's just me. I run a piece of small chain through the balancer to hold it still since I don't have a fancy tool to do that. Then again, I have found a GM manual yet that says to use a piece of chain or holder to keep the crank from turning.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
Allen taps them on with a hammer far enough to be able to use the old bolt, then use an impact and pull it in.
Im just worried if i try and tap it on with a hammer I will fracture the edging of it. This last pulley I had on there had a small fracture on the edge thats why im gonna replace it. Should I put a small piece of wood in between and then tap or use a rubber mallet?
1951 3100
1984 C10
take a socket or pipe and tap on the center, not on the pulley edges. BTW, the pulley has a rubber isolator and hitting on the outside of it could fracture the bond.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
I never thought of hitting the middle of it. I think ill try that. Jeff Smallen was the one that was telling me to heat up the snout of the pulley and he said it just slides right on, after its butted up all the way. Then once it cools its set on their..
1951 3100
1984 C10
Yeah, warm it up a little but dont cook it. I know it works, I've tried it. It is so easy with heat. I'm just saying that the GM books never suggested the easiest install method. Use propane, not oxy/acetylene.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
I just lubed my crank snout w/ some 30W, got it on as far as it'd go... then used some threaded rod to get it down.
37ft-lbs, then 140° CW.
The superior man is modest in his speech, but exceeds in his actions. - Confucius
"He who asks of life nothing but the improvement of his own nature, is less liable than anyone else to miss and waste life."- Henri Frederic Amiel
'01 Chev Z71 LT - '85 BMW 745i TURBO - '88 BMW 750iL - '88 Ford F150 XLT Lariat - '79 MB 240D - '79 MB 280S Euro
'80 MB 380SE-5.0 Euro - '85 MB 300SD - '87 MB 300SDL - 1990 MB 300SEL - '91 MB 300SE - '91 MB 560SEL
Let's face it, the red hair... makes 'em wet.
I was amazed at how little heat it took to make it fit. Smear a little grease on the hub, when it just starts to melt install it.
2006 Superior Blue Trailblazer SS AWD, Stock as a rock
Sold: 2002 GMC Sportside Denali front end with a 2002 LS1, FLT level 5, Yank 2600, Trick Turbo, T76, Nelson intercooler, 60LB injectors, Warbro fuel pump, Eaton locker, Magnaflow, 3.42, Nelson Performance Tuning (speed density).
Sold: 1981 GMC LB RC 1500 2002 4.8L 4L60E 12 bolt 3.73 Richmond Lock Right AC PS Nelson Performance tuning
I put it in the oven. Not sure that was the best method either, but it worked.
Gone, but not forgotten!
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