For some reason, my motor seems to be about an inch too far forward. It won't meet the trans unless I unbolt the trans from the crossmember and move it forward to meet the motor. I'm using a 2004 6.0 with a TH350 trans. What can I do to get the motor back that 1/2 to 1 inch I need to get them to meet. Thanks.
What truck? My first thought is to move the tranny forward, this is the simplist. you may need to redrill some holes for the tranny cross member. I think the engine would be tougher to move.
1968 Chevy SWB Fleet. 2002 5.3 all stock (for now) Nelson Tune 4l60e w/TB converter.
ok not stock anymore...13.3 at 101
Now with front mount turbo... new times soon
Custom motor mount plates are required if you want to keep the stock transmission location. Street and Performance has some that the mount holes are further back.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
What adapters are you currently using?
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
I'm using the carshopinc adapters on a 1982 c10. If I just move the crossmember forward, will I need a new driveshaft? It only moved forward 1"(give or take a little).
All I can Tell you is what I had to do to fit a 2004 5.3 4l60e in a 88 k-5 4x4. Seemed that every time i turned around I needed an inch of movement.Originally Posted by team39763
I'm going to assume that the motor is in the mounts. Those mounts have been bolted up , and every thing is were you decided to put it. And that the OEM front motor mount cross member has been removed. And that you have fabed up a new front crossmember to tie the motormounts together.
With The tranny sitting on its crossmember in the original location and the motor bolted to the tranny... ( I used the Tranny mount as a refference point bc of the 4x4 tcase BTW a 208 will bolt right up and sit at the corect angle all spines match everything fit with the 2004 oem 4x4 trans tail addapter....This sets the other points, and gives them a center. I had to fab up a perch to go between the motor mount and the frame mount , this perch corrected my driveline angle and gave me the clearance i needed for the front axle. this was a good thing two birds. The addapter plates I had needed to be modified slightly. I had to drill one hole out and drill and tap three others to dodge the ac compressor and bring the motormount closer to the frame mount althogh I moved it quite abit about 1 inch off still.
Ok well theres nothing left to get out of the addapter plate the ac compressor needs a home and the only thing left to do was move the frame mount back to match the motor mount. Mine had the mount rivited to the frame. I removed the rivits positioned the frame mounts where I needed it.
The frame had holes from the rivits and so did the mount. The rear hole, of the 2 in the frame. lined up with the front hole of the two of the mount.
I had to weld a tab on the back of the frame mont to make a place to put a bolt drill a few holes and done.
I redesigned the perch to acctually be the bottom half of the motor mount. I redesighed and re positioned the front motormount crossmember to hold the mounts and provide oilpan protection incase the front axle moved beyond its limits.
I did all this in my garage but I have years of fabricating skills so it was really not bad. Torch, harbor freight drill press, vice and a small Lincon fluxcore machine 4" grinder stack of cut off wheels.
This process involed one step at a time measure prop shim fab refab remeasure double check. I lost track of how many times that motor trans transfercase came in and out. It also was very helpfull to remove the radiatior core support. I didnt want to remove the fenders but I wish that I would have. (do it) It would have saved me so much time. I was thinking It would cost me because "this was the last time the motors coming back out." I'll try to get some pics but I don't know that they will show everthing. Hope this helps.good luck.
The second one will be a snap.
goto Welcome to Street and Performance and look in their catalog page 98. There is a mount that is 1 inch further back for your application.
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/08%20catalog/08onlinecatalogMAIN.html
Last edited by RedHeartbeat; 08-13-2007 at 03:45 PM.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
Yep thats them. There looks like there is an additionall hole pattern on the lower ones. That looks just like the mod that I did to mine. They got a lot of cool things I had to make 2 years ago.
Looking back I think I would spend the money for the bracketry and ran my 88 ac compressor. My drop out/conversion package came with all of the 04 ac components condenser, lines, compressor, coil, evap, so I was bound and determined to make it work and not spend the $$$. Made it up with pain in the a$$ to fit all that stuff and R-134
Well, I decided that I'm going to slot the holes that are on the crossmember for the motor. That should give me that last little bit that I need. But now I have another problem. Did I put my crank spacer in wrong? Does it go between the crank and the flexplate or between the flexplate and converter? I put it between the flexplate and converter and now there's a 1/4" gap between the mounting points. Should I add spacers/shims? I did it the way I did because someone said the other way would make the starter not engage. Thanks.
You did it correctly, it should be between the flex plate and convertor. There's supposed to be a big gap when the convertor is shoved back, can't remember how much though. 1/4" sounds about right. You pull the convertor forward to bolt it to the flex plate.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
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