97 RCSB 6.0L + 4L80E + Procharger swap:)

well things are going to be going slow on this since i'm pretty much ordering as i go and right now work is slow lol. I've been researching for a few months to see what i'm up against and what all to expect and the more i read the better i feel about everything lol. anyways i bought a 2002 lq4 with its 4l80e counterpart for 2300 bucks, i plan to get a S/C cam(not sure which yet) upgrade springs/pushrods, upgrade fuel pump, get some 60# injectors, reinstall the P1SC procharger i have on my current engine, rebuild the 4l80e with a little stronger clutch kit and see where that puts me! should be a fun truck so far the fastest its gone is 13.1 @100 mph wheel hopping on street tires.

full truck load of go fast parts lol poor truck was riding low
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...1-14100139.jpg

what a freaking mess it was worth it though to see my fiance out there helping me label the connectors and wires haha
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...1-15185718.jpg

these exhaust manifold bolts were damn near impossible to get out thanks to the Irwin bolt extractor i got them all out, 4 of them looked like this a few came out and 3 were snapped off before i got the engine!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...1-15185730.jpg

damm going to be nice when done

got some questions too now that i have the engine in front of me. i want to delete the entire 97 computer and use the entire new harness and computer to run everything fyi

1. what do i do with the oil cooler lines, is it mandatory to have them or optional and i can use a plate or loop it back in?
2. on the power steering pump what do i do about the third line? hydroboost? cap it off?
3. what do i do with the third plastic fuel line or whatever that is, some sort of vent or evap line or something
4. what do i need to do about the temp sensor to make it work with my gauges, i saw a few people using adapters to use the 97 sensor i'd like to just keep them all the lq4 sensors if i can to keep it simple later.

guess thats all for now and i'll come across more as i go thanks!

Oil cooler is good but not necessary. If u want to delete u can get a block off plate of a 4.8 or 5.3 that didnt have a cooler. As for the third fuel line thing. If its the one one top of intake thats a evap line

Is it possible to delete the 97 computer and still retain cruise control and ABS? Would also like to know for my 97 swap.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mtcyclon

Is it possible to delete the 97 computer and still retain cruise control and ABS? Would also like to know for my 97 swap.

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i've heard you can keep ABS that all the abd box would need is a VSS signal but i'm not 100% sure on that.

the cruise i dont know maybe someone else will chime in

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mtcyclon

Is it possible to delete the 97 computer and still retain cruise control and ABS? Would also like to know for my 97 swap.

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Yes, very possible. I have done it many times.
It can be set up to run just the LSx computer and still take care of all the functions in the truck. Factory gauges, ABS, cruise, etc. with just the one computer.

03 blue connector:
#19 repin with 97 black conn. #18
#20 repin with 97 grey #21
#33 repin with 97 black #10
#58 repin with 97 black #11
#75 repin with 97 blue #4

03 green conn.
#9 repin with 97 black #1
#46 repin with 97 black #5
#49 repin with 97 blue #15
#50 repin with 97 black #4

On the 03 harenss I spliced the wires from C2 on the Park/ Neutral switch. Which is white, gray, yellow and black and white wires to were the 97 wires went to the fire wall under the evap. On C1 at the trans (looking at the connector veiw) A to G, B to B, C to C, D to D, E to E, F to F. G to the starter relay.

got this info from a member in here wayoung.. he did a 4.8 into a 97 burb. im doing something similar and im also at the wiring part of the swap. i already modified the facory harness just haven't had a chance to install it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by myzterray

03 blue connector:
#19 repin with 97 black conn. #18
#20 repin with 97 grey #21
#33 repin with 97 black #10
#58 repin with 97 black #11
#75 repin with 97 blue #4

03 green conn.
#9 repin with 97 black #1
#46 repin with 97 black #5
#49 repin with 97 blue #15
#50 repin with 97 black #4

On the 03 harenss I spliced the wires from C2 on the Park/ Neutral switch. Which is white, gray, yellow and black and white wires to were the 97 wires went to the fire wall under the evap. On C1 at the trans (looking at the connector veiw) A to G, B to B, C to C, D to D, E to E, F to F. G to the starter relay.

got this info from a member in here wayoung.. he did a 4.8 into a 97 burb. im doing something similar and im also at the wiring part of the swap. i already modified the facory harness just haven't had a chance to install it.

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sweet! yeah i read through your entire thread and was taking some notes lol

on this part though i dont really understand whats going on with that? is that for the old tranny or the 4.8 tranny i'm not sure if it would be the same since i'm swapping the 4l80e in with the engine?

Quote:

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On the 03 harenss I spliced the wires from C2 on the Park/ Neutral switch. Which is white, gray, yellow and black and white wires to were the 97 wires went to the fire wall under the evap. On C1 at the trans (looking at the connector veiw) A to G, B to B, C to C, D to D, E to E, F to F. G to the starter relay.

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added some to the ?s with no answers yet


2. on the power steering pump what do i do about the third line? hydroboost? cap it off?
3. what do i do with the third plastic fuel line or whatever that is, some sort of vent or evap line or something. do they make a plate to cap this off as well?
4. what do i need to do about the temp sensor to make it work with my gauges, i saw a few people using adapters to use the 97 sensor i'd like to just keep them all the lq4 sensors if i can to keep it simple later.
5. the factory oil dip stick was rusted to pieces and broke on me and the piece that slides into the block broke off flush with the block any tips on removing this, would it have a rubber grommet? or an o ring?
6. does anyone know of someone who notched the frame to use the LS style a/c compressor in its original location and might have some pictures?

found some part numbers for the oil cooler block off plate and a new dipstick.

12558346 – EGR Block off plate
12577903 – Oil cooler block off plate
12611384 – Oil block off gasket
11588714 – Oil block off bolts (x2)
12610053 – 02-07 dipstick
12570623 – Truck Oil fill tube

borrowed from here

http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewto...=9134&start=40

not sure about the 3rd line on yours. i'm swapping an LS1 from a camaro into my truck & if i remember right the third line i have goes to the radiator hose. i'm not to that part of my swap yet.

you can remove the evap but you'll have to have it removed from the ECU when you get it tuned.

i went a different route with my oil & temp sensor. i bought a single wire plug for the LS1 oil pressure sensor & a 3 pin coolant temp sensor with a a harness so i only have the one sensor.
you can check them out in my build thread. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...gondown-3.html

dip stick tube should have an o-ring. i'd try some needle nose & try to bend the tube so you can grab it & try to pull it out with the needle nose. or you should be able to drop the pan & push it out from the inside.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mattc

sweet! yeah i read through your entire thread and was taking some notes lol

on this part though i dont really understand whats going on with that? is that for the old tranny or the 4.8 tranny i'm not sure if it would be the same since i'm swapping the 4l80e in with the engine?






added some to the ?s with no answers yet


2. on the power steering pump what do i do about the third line? hydroboost? cap it off?
3. what do i do with the third plastic fuel line or whatever that is, some sort of vent or evap line or something. do they make a plate to cap this off as well?
4. what do i need to do about the temp sensor to make it work with my gauges, i saw a few people using adapters to use the 97 sensor i'd like to just keep them all the lq4 sensors if i can to keep it simple later.
5. the factory oil dip stick was rusted to pieces and broke on me and the piece that slides into the block broke off flush with the block any tips on removing this, would it have a rubber grommet? or an o ring?
6. does anyone know of someone who notched the frame to use the LS style a/c compressor in its original location and might have some pictures?

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awesome happy you were able to use my thread as a resource. i been really busy and havent had a chance to put in any work. sundays are my usual days but my giants are in the play offs so i been glued to the tv on sundays now lol.
thaat last part is for the original trans. i believe you will need to splice some wires from the original park/neutral safty switch in order for it to work.
i have the same power steering question i have the third line and im not sure what to do with it. ill just cap it off for now and if it gives me any issues ill just get a different pump.

you can use the original 97 sender and wire from the truck harness. there an adapter that goes in to the block then your original snder will then attach to that. i believe you can keep the ls sensor if you plan on running electric fans. the stock sender will connect to the front left hand side and if you decide to run both the 97 sender goes into the rear right hand side.

dipstick has an oring at the bottom. only thing i can think of is remove the oil pan and push it through with some pliers.

ive heard alot of people running into problems notching the fame. you are better off getting a relocation bracket that put the a/c compressor on the top right side of the engine. i just sold one by kwik performance. cost about 200 then you would have to buy and sanden compressor. or novak has a kit that uses the compressor from the pre 95 truck. i would use that one because the parts would be easier to interchange. the lines condensor etc.

finally got a little more free time to tinker with the engine a bit, i pulled the accessories off and valve covers and get the crank bolt broke loose, man what a bitch that was lol. i ended up sticking a 12" extension in the pulley and let it rest on the a/c bracket, got another 3/4 drive socket and a 12 in cheater bar + a 4 foot jack handle and lift up and broke it loose, when it moved it literally made a spark lol and i damn near had the front of the engine stand off the ground but its loose! the top of the heads look pretty clean and nice so i'm happy with that.

now i just gotta wait for one more paycheck so i can order a cam, pushrods, springs, and a timing chain from Bob @ Brutespeed!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...1-28132317.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...1-28132326.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...1-28132335.jpg

still haven't had much time to tinker with the engine buttttt i did get enough time to weld/redrill the holes in my axles back to a 5x5 pattern so i could install the new wheels and M&H tires and HOLY SHIT does this thing hook and go now. wheels are Weld RT-s 15x8.25 w 5.50 backspacing with 275/60s. i did manage to get some brackets cut out for the caltrac bars but i'm still waiting on my heim joints to get in before i put it all together.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...4-07135350.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...4-07133825.jpg

added some home made caltracs today cost me right at $100 bucks for everything! sure beats 400 for the premade ones!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...4-24185953.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...4-24190012.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...4-24190144.jpg

This is going to be an awesome build I can see it now, that was a really good price on the drivetrain too! Do the caltracs really do any good? I was thinking about buying a set for my colorado, but I have to buy the pre made ones because I don't have those skills///

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TRPLXL2

This is going to be an awesome build I can see it now, that was a really good price on the drivetrain too! Do the caltracs really do any good? I was thinking about buying a set for my colorado, but I have to buy the pre made ones because I don't have those skills///

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i'm not sure how good they do yet lol hopefully i dont get called out to work and can go to the track this weekend and find out, i know when i first put them on i used a setup from this site http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html


but it was WAYYYYY to stiff as in i think i dislodged a few vertebrae lol a lil while ago i went outside and loosened them up so well see this weekend how it does with the new M&H radials!

well now i'm just waiting on my ls2 lifter holders which will hopefully be here tomorrow and i can start putting her back together!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5-02172637.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5-02172702.jpg

got the short block put together now just waiting on all my gaskets to come in

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5-03150837.jpg

got a few more things in today all my gaskets to finish assembly, my Circle D converter and flexplate and a transgo shiftkit, also ordered hp tuners so i can get this thing running when i get it all wired in.


i have some questions about the fuel system though. this is how i was thinking it should go

walbro 255------>Filter------>intake inlet fuel line-----> injectors


is the regulator that came with the lq4 intake going to work? or do i need to add something to make this all work? i've tried searched a little but i havent really found a deffinate answer that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy and sure about the setup lol.

i have the dual fuel lines already if that matters.

my truck has threaded disconnects at the firewall right behind the intake manifold used to be (the 5.7 vortec) i just found out what fittings they were.. im sure they're threaded o ring fitted to -6an

This way you don't need 10+ feet of fuel line you know?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greenvortec

my truck has threaded disconnects at the firewall right behind the intake manifold used to be (the 5.7 vortec) i just found out what fittings they were.. im sure they're threaded o ring fitted to -6an

This way you don't need 10+ feet of fuel line you know?

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thanks for the help!

after some digging i found this picture and it shed some light on it for me, got all that ordered for my fuel lines i'm still unsure about the regulator issue though. did some more work last night on the motor

Circle D converter and flexplate
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-05161547.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-05161215.jpg

Pinned the crank, damn near flipped the engine and stand over trying to torque the harmonic balancer bolt lol.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-06202444.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mattc

thanks for the help!

after some digging i found this picture and it shed some light on it for me, got all that ordered for my fuel lines i'm still unsure about the regulator issue though. did some more work last night on the motor

Circle D converter and flexplate
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-05161547.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-05161215.jpg

Pinned the crank, damn near flipped the engine and stand over trying to torque the harmonic balancer bolt lol.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-06202444.jpg

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those are a bitch to put back on.. i'm pretty sure i stripped out the first few threads on my crank snout with the new bolt lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greenvortec

those are a bitch to put back on.. i'm pretty sure i stripped out the first few threads on my crank snout with the new bolt lol

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yeah i used a small tap handle to slide through the flywheel to keep the engine from spinning and used a 4 foot floor jack handle for leverage and it picked the entire engine up. but i got it and it damn sure wont spin now lol, it did put a hurting on that little handle!

headers are in, got my brackets from procharger in and got the intake mounted and fuel lines mounted just a few more odds and ends and i can start pulling the 5.7 out!!!!!!

still not sure about the fuel pressure regulator on the intake is that good enough to use for the walbro?

also does anyone have the part numbers for the starter bolts? i never got any when i bought the motor

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-08154128.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-08154137.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-08154157.jpg

Lookin good its gonna be a blast to drive when its all buttoned up!

what are the part numbers for the fuel rail fittings and how much did you pay for them?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tomandblue

what are the part numbers for the fuel rail fittings and how much did you pay for them?

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i used the exact numbers in this post except for the hoses i used the 18" section part number (SUM-G1001) it cost me 99 bucks for all 10 pieces plus S&H.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by silverado_lover

http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/a...elfittings.png

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mattc

i used the exact numbers in this post except for the hoses i used the 18" section part number (SUM-G1001) it cost me 99 bucks for all 10 pieces plus S&H.

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this is what i was trying to describe to you in our messages, it's a little hard without the drawing Mike made lol

well waiting to go pick up my tranny from the shop after being rebuilt so i figured i would put the harness back on and start figuring it out i got a lot of pictures of connectors so bear with me, i just want to see if anyone can help my identify them since i have no empty plugs and no idea where these really go to. thanks!

connector between engine and ECM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151715.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151710.jpg

another one
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151702.jpg

another one
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151648.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151643.jpgv

i'm guessing these are all the pink power wires i need to deal with but i'm not really sure where to look for it in all data.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151635.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151630.jpg



these plugs are all at the back of the harness on the same strain as the O2 sensor for the Pass side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13145603.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13145609.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13145614.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13145627.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13145526.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13145539.jpg

This has a bunch of crap that goes inside that you dont need.

another one
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151648.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151643.jpg

You can find the connector in AllData and start going through what each one is for. On most of mine I started back at the connector that I knew I wasnt using and came towards the pcm or fuse block with the wire until I got to where I needed to just depin it.

i'm guessing these are all the pink power wires i need to deal with but i'm not really sure where to look for it in all data.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151635.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151630.jpg


Right is MAF and left is coolant level I believe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13145603.jpg

Those are A/C
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13145627.jpg

O2 sensor
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13145526.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13145539.jpg

whats the block called in all data so i can search it? you were right about the rest of them thanks alot! i completely forgot about the MAF and other AC sensors

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 1989k1500

You can find the connector in AllData and start going through what each one is for. On most of mine I started back at the connector that I knew I wasnt using and came towards the pcm or fuse block with the wire until I got to where I needed to just depin it.

i'm guessing these are all the pink power wires i need to deal with but i'm not really sure where to look for it in all data.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151635.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6-13151630.jpg

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Info you're looking for here:

http://www.lt1swap.com/underhoodfuseblock.htm

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wagonbacker9

Info you're looking for here:

http://www.lt1swap.com/underhoodfuseblock.htm

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oh man your awesome! thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mattc

oh man your awesome! thanks!

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With as many hours.. make that days.. that I've spent researching the swap, I'd better be able to be helpful to someone. lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wagonbacker9

With as many hours.. make that days.. that I've spent researching the swap, I'd better be able to be helpful to someone. lol

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yeah i've looked all over that site and still cant find the stuff i need sometimes, its a little confusing still not as bad as the S&P website though lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mattc

yeah i've looked all over that site and still cant find the stuff i need sometimes, its a little confusing still not as bad as the S&P website though lol

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I know how you feel. I work in IT, so these guys who don't know how to organize a website to any info can be found bothers me... a LOT.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by myzterray

03 blue connector:
#19 repin with 97 black conn. #18
#20 repin with 97 grey #21
#33 repin with 97 black #10
#58 repin with 97 black #11
#75 repin with 97 blue #4

03 green conn.
#9 repin with 97 black #1
#46 repin with 97 black #5
#49 repin with 97 blue #15
#50 repin with 97 black #4

On the 03 harenss I spliced the wires from C2 on the Park/ Neutral switch. Which is white, gray, yellow and black and white wires to were the 97 wires went to the fire wall under the evap. On C1 at the trans (looking at the connector veiw) A to G, B to B, C to C, D to D, E to E, F to F. G to the starter relay.

got this info from a member in here wayoung.. he did a 4.8 into a 97 burb. im doing something similar and im also at the wiring part of the swap. i already modified the facory harness just haven't had a chance to install it.

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i went through and relabled this for my own benefit later lol the colors are the wires from my 97 that i need to chase down and pin to the 02 ECM

02 blue connector:
#19 repin with 97 black conn. #18 PINK Ignition Feed
#20 repin with 97 grey #21 ORNANGE Battery Feed
#33 repin with 97 black #10 PURPLE Brake Signal
#58 repin with 97 black #11 PURPLE Serial Data
#75 repin with 97 blue #4 PINK Ignition Feed

02 red conn.
#9 repin with 97 black #1 DK GREEN/WHITE Fuel Pump Relay Control
#46 repin with 97 black #5 BROWN/WHITE MIL Control
#49 repin with 97 blue #15 WHTVSS Output Signal (Antilock)
#50 repin with 97 black #4 DK GREEN VSS Output Signal (speedo)

ok so i ordered a IAT sensor to put in the intake pipe since i'm removing the MAF. which wires do i need to use from this plug? obviously B is one of the wires i need but i need to know the 2nd wire to use



Attachment 7311

Intake Air Temperature (IAT)/Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor



Pin


A BLK Low Reference

B TAN IAT Sensor Signal

C BLK/WHT Ground

D PNK Ignition 1 Voltage

E YEL MAF Sensor Signal


here is the IAT sensor i got

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tail-p-62.html

^^ anyone?