My 5.3L into an 85 GMC swb 2wd swap

I thought I would throw up some pics of my 5.3L/4L60E swap into my 85 GMC swb 2wd pickup. My build log is over at Glock's new project: "Fred" - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network with the engine swap starting on page 18 (LOTS of great discussion and ideas in this thread!).

8-29-09: Pulled the 350 TBI engine. Only has about 30,000 miles on it, but it gets about 14 mpg and has a slight surge at cruise. The PO built this engine (a 91 vintage) and installed the TBI from an 87 donor truck.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010111.jpg

9-7-09: Set the 5.3 in for the first time!

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010163.jpg

9-7-09: Later that day, I had the engine compartment cleaned up and put on a little semi-gloss black paint. Set the engine and tranny in for the final time.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010182.jpg

9-7-09:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...P1010183-1.jpg

9-7-09:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010184.jpg

9-8-09: Modified the drivers side head pipe by cutting it off and turning it until it cleared the frame and made it real easy to hook up to the existing dual exhaust.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010181.jpg

9-8-09: I was able to use the 5.3's chromed power steering pump by by swapping the large fitting on the back of the pump that the pressure hose screws in to. The return line on the pump needed a little tweaking, and the truck's line needed a little tweaking too. This let me use the truck's stock hoses, no need to buy or have special hoses made!

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010180.jpg

9-8-09: I turned all the injectors 180° so the wire harness would be out of sight.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010174.jpg

9-11-09: Got the fuel system done, with the exception of the new 87 gas tanks, which will be here tomorrow. Installed a new high pressure switching valve too. If this setup (vavle) doesn't work out, I'll swap things around by adding another filter/regulator to the system and putting both of them BEFORE the switching valve. Then I can cap off the return connections on the valve. But S&P has done many swaps like this, and they say they haven't had problems with the high psi valves plumbed like this.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010208.jpg

9-12-09: Exhaust is hooked up now.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010214.jpg

9-12-09: Installed the radiator support out of my 91 Suburban parts truck. I will get a GMC grill for it later.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010217.jpg

9-13-09: I modified the electronic gas pedal by cutting off the pedal and welding the OEM pedal to it. Now it look factory, and you can't tell it's the electronic pedal when the door is open and looking inside. It looks stock.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010233.jpg

9-13-09: The PCM will sit in behind the rad support on the drivers side. The wiring is all finished now, including the cruise, fuel pump relay, and e-fan relays. I still need to make a mounting bracket and cover for the PCM.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...P1010221-1.jpg

9-13-09: Got the cluster connector re-pinned and the cluster installed. It's out of a 90 Blazer, and has the electric speedometer. One wire runs from the PCM to the speedo.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010235.jpg

9-13-09: I had an old OEM air intake from a truck I had that got a CAI setup, so for now I will run this until I can get the parts to make a nice intake setup that runs to the drivers side. I cut the big goiter looking thing off and formed a piece of sheet metal to cover the hole. Sealed it with some RTV.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010238.jpg

9-13-09: This is where it is at right now. I did get a conical air filter for it and installed it last night and made a bracket to cradle the MAF and keep it snug. I also took a 1/2" threaded brass pipe plug and drilled & tapped it for a 90° 1/4" barbed fitting and installed it into the heater hose outlet in the radiator, then ran the steam hose from the heads to that. Also cleaned up some of the wiring with split loom.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010242.jpg

I used the plates that are of these dimensions:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...ount_plate.jpg

This put everything in the perfect position! I have plenty of room for e-fans, and plenty of room between the firewall and the engine. The shifter linkage lined up perfectly and only needed a tiny bit of tweaking on the rod that runs from the frame to the trans. The drive shaft went right in, the 4L60E yoke is the same as the TH350. The tranny cross member was slid back, and only two new holes had to be drilled on each side.

All that is left is to get the tranny cooler hooked up (will have the AN fittings from Summit tomorrow), install the new pumps into the new fuel tanks (tanks will be here tomorrow), install the new O2 sensors (should have them Friday), hook up the temp sending unit (waiting on the adapter from S&P), and hit a bone yard on Saturday to find either a stock fan or e-fans that fit the 85's radiator. Then it's ready to fire up!

I was going to run the AC compressor in the stock location, and might still. I would need to notch the top frame rail and build it back up higher for the hose fittings to clear. I'm debating on whether to do that or using a Kwik Performance top mount. I'll figure that out next month. Also need to get the 3.42's installed. Later I'll swap out the turbo mufflers that's on there now for either Magnaflows of Flowmasters, and have the tail pipes run straight out the back.

That's all for now, I'll post up some more pics when it's finished. I'm hoping to start it this Saturday or Sunday!!

nice build up.

Nice I saw the update on 67-72chevytrucks.com. Looks awesome. I need directions to your place so you can do mine next lol

Hmmm, I may come to you! I would like to go visit Mark Rippetoe at the Wichita Falls Athletic Club. lol

Bring your truck brother. I don't know that name. I know where the Athletic Club is. I wanna a 6.0 and 4l80. I only have one gas tank though so it'll be a little easier!

I need to reread your threads on both sites. It may have been said but what headers are those and what modifications did you have to do. I'm strongly against cutting my frame but if there's no way around it, i guess i can stomach it.

real clean nice set up

I'm hoping i can get by with running my '85 fan shroud and radiator. and hoping it all fits nice and neat.

Thanks Stunna.

I just picked up a stock clutch fan about 5 minutes ago, and it looks like it will fit the 85 shroud, and I an running the 85's radiator too.

The manifolds are the stock truck manifolds, just without the heat shields on. I am going to have them ceramic coated. I did have to notch the frame on the passenger side to clear one ear. I did it in a nice flowing cut so there wouldn't be any place for a crack to form. It looks like a huge notch in pictures, but it really isn't that big. The smaller notch you see behind the bigger one is a factory notch that is already there.

I could have actually taken out less material, but I wanted to account for any movement in the motor mounts and torque too. And it would have been a pain to get back there to remove more after everything was installed if I had needed to.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010168.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010170.jpg

I've shortened many 67-72 lwb frame to swb specs, so I have no problems cutting into a frame. :D You could always reinforce that area around the cut to give your mind a little more reassurance.

do you have the 2 piece fan shroud or the one piece? i have the bigger radiator with the thick plastic one- piece shroud. Looks like you have the two piece looking at the shroud/radiator mounts you have. It looks as if it's all coming together really nice. I'm going to read through your threads and and take some notes. Did you change the oil pan to a F-Body? I heard there may be a need to but key word is 'heard' lol

I have a two piece shroud.

I left the truck pan on and it clears everything just fine. It does hang down about 1.5" - 2" below the bottom of the crossmember, but I won't be lowering this truck very much, so it shouldn't be a problem for me. An f-body pan would probably be ideal if you can get one for a reasonable price, but unless you plan on lowering a lot, I would stick with the truck pan.

You can kind of get an idea from this pic:

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010214.jpg

Here is the way my truck sits right now, and that's with the 5.3 and trans in the crate on the trailer. I'll probably lower the front 2.5" with spindles, and lower the rear 4" - 5", but that all. I'm not worried about the pan at that ride height.

Even if I just bring the rear down some, I'll be happy. It's waaaay to high for my taste right now!

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P5170051.jpg

Yeah I have the 5/5 drop kit from djm coils,spindles, shackles and flip kit. Mine sits way high in the back. I believe the leaf springs have either been rearched or they're off a 4wd. I'm on the hunt for used leaf springs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Thanks Stunna.

I just picked up a stock clutch fan about 5 minutes ago, and it looks like it will fit the 85 shroud, and I an running the 85's radiator too.

The manifolds are the stock truck manifolds, just without the heat shields on. I am going to have them ceramic coated. I did have to notch the frame on the passenger side to clear one ear. I did it in a nice flowing cut so there wouldn't be any place for a crack to form. It looks like a huge notch in pictures, but it really isn't that big. The smaller notch you see behind the bigger one is a factory notch that is already there.

I could have actually taken out less material, but I wanted to account for any movement in the motor mounts and torque too. And it would have been a pain to get back there to remove more after everything was installed if I had needed to.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010168.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010170.jpg

I've shortened many 67-72 lwb frame to swb specs, so I have no problems cutting into a frame. :D You could always reinforce that area around the cut to give your mind a little more reassurance.

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MY headers are for a factory 99-04 truck but it has a strange flange bolt up its not like the PASS side my is in a 78 did you make your pipe extentions yourslef for the manifolds

Hmm, I'm glad I went with the manifolds. Yes, I did the head pipes. I have several long "U" bends and "J" bends of 2.25" and 2.5"pipe, so it was easy to cut and fit them.

my notch seams very similar to youRs on the PASS im going to order 2.5" reducers today and the o2 bungs and make my own extensions to clear ther driver frame rail!!!

very nice build! it makes me happy to see an 85 being built as i'm picking one up the first week of october! but i dig yours... it looks very nice!

I noticed you went dbw, if you had to do it over would you go dbw or dbc and why?
Also, is the '85 factory cruise vacuum or electric? mine came with the turbo 350 tranny

My next 5.3L will be in my 1970 K10 pickup, and the only reason for going cable on that is the 700R4. No air, no cruise, just an alternator and power steering.

If I were to do another truck like my 85 that had factory cruise, I would do another dbw in a heartbeat. 4 wires is all it takes to hook up the cruise. And if I were to smooth the firewall, that makes life easy too. The 85's cruise is vacuum and electric. The brake switch for the cruise has a large vacuum hose running from it up to the diaphragm on the manifold. There is also a module under the dash that the wires from the column switch go to. To hook up the dbw cruise, you just need to run the three wires from the column switch to the TAC module, and one wire to the original disconnect cruise switch at the brake pedal (12v when the brake is NOT pressed, open when it is).

After I do a swap in my 70, I have been eye balling a couple mid-80's XJ6 Jags here in town. If I get one of those, it will be wire as well. They are just too simple.

Thanks for the answer i had kinda thought it was electric and vacuum but wasn't 100 percent sure. I guess when i do my swap I'll do dbw and change the pedal I didnt know if that was easier or not. Thanks again the truck looks sharp. it'd take me hours to read all 28+ pages on 67-72chevytrucks.com lol

LOL, yeah, it's getting long! But there is a ton of good info in that thread.

The pedal was cake! I used one of the bottom holes from the original pedal, and only had to add one hole up top, then I re-used the bolts that held the factory pedal on. I then cut both pedals off and welded the 85's pedal on to the 06's pedal. Looks factory, and feels just right on my foot.

I'll post pics here too for those that didn't see it on 67-72chevytrucks.com.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010226.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010227.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010228.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010233.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/P1010234.jpg

Thanks... Looks awesome, and doesnt look as bad as I had pictured in my mind. It looks like it came that way from the factory. Very nice. I know the guys on the other site are loving this build too. Have you ran in on E85 yet. I wont be running mine on E85 i've never seen a gas station here with it.

I'm reading the build thread. I'm trying to decide what to do for a/c, headers and wire harness still. I think I'll just notch the frame a little bit and run fbody headers. Your engine bay looks amazing you should do this for a living.

Haven't started it yet. Thought I was going to last night, but I think the injectors are stuck. I'm relaxing with my kiddos tonight, and will give it another go in the morning.

I'm going to drive it for a while before I try the E85, but I'll definitely be doing that. Right now E85 is $1.88 and 85 octane is $2.45. I know two people that use E85 regularly and they both have experienced only 1-2 mpg loss versus 85 octane. If nothing else, I think it will be worth the looks I get when an old 1985 pickup pulls up to an E85 pump! :D

Haha yeah no doubt. probably the same looks that'd you would get at a diesel pump lol. I'm thinking I'll either run a air intake to the driver side or pull a battery tray out of a diesel thats on the driver side to allow a bit more room. but it looks like you had just enough for both.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lowchevytrucks8503

I'm reading the build thread. I'm trying to decide what to do for a/c, headers and wire harness still. I think I'll just notch the frame a little bit and run fbody headers. Your engine bay looks amazing you should do this for a living.

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Using the 5.3's own AC compressor is possible, but you will need to notch the frame and do a little boxing work. We determined also that a 99-02 truck compressor with a flat manifold will work too with no frame notching.

I used the truck manifolds with only a little notching on the passenger side. I opted not to use f-body manifolds because, well.... they are ugly compared to the truck manifolds. At least the truck manifolds are a mirror image from side to side. Plus I plan on having the coated at JetHot, that should look sweet.

After doing this, I realize that I could have done the harness myself, it's really straight forward. On the other hand, I am glad I had someone else do the first one so I could see first hand what is done. The next ones will be done by me. I had Hannah and Jesse at Wait4Me Performance rework the harness and do the initial "canned tune", that was $360 including return shipping.

Thanks for the good words! But I don't think I have the patience to do these for a living. But if time wasn't an issue, I wouldn't mind doing a couple of these on the side. :beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lowchevytrucks8503

Haha yeah no doubt. probably the same looks that'd you would get at a diesel pump lol. I'm thinking I'll either run a air intake to the driver side or pull a battery tray out of a diesel thats on the driver side to allow a bit more room. but it looks like you had just enough for both.

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I only used the OEM tube because I had it. It saves me money for now. But I do plan on running it to the drivers side too. In the spring, I will:

* Ditch the OEM intake setup and building one to the drivers side,
* Ditch the mechanical fan/shroud and install e-fans
* I forgot to mention that i will use AC brackets from KWiK Performance, Inc. - Home to mount the AC high on the passenger side, and a Sanderson compressor.

I want to do the swap for all the same reasons you did. But my goal is to pick on some vettes...I'm hoping I will eventually be able to do just that. I want to see the looks on some of my buddies faces after my $1200 truck kills there $40+ C6 vettes

For now I want to squeeze out the best possible mileage I can. It'll still be fun to drive though! And in the mean time, I will be looking for an LQ9 for the "future". :D

I wish my truck was as clean as yours from the get go. I have alot of work to do. I wanted to do all original chrome and everything but its way overpriced for aftermarket stuff imo. Alot of it is no where close to original. I believe I'll end up shaving everything except door handles and locks. then 20/22 coys. with black paint thats the plan anyway

I had to go to Louisiana to get one this clean! I traded a 68 C10 project for this one, and met the guy half way which was the Kansas/Oklahoma border just south of Wichita.

hey glock35ipsc what radiator hoses ae you running ???? oh im using a diesel battery tray my truck was a diesel to start so im running the air filter on the Pass side

They are off the 2006 Silverado 2wd ECSB donor truck.

i'm stalking ya buddy! this thread is an easy read... right to the point. i wont clog this one up with brain storming ideas and thoughts. lol!

To anyone reading this: the 28 page thread is definitely worth the read if your serious about this swap lots of detail and ideas. Bob's the man!! looking good buddy!!

lol dang menace were on all the same sites lol. I'm going to be doing almost everything that bob did, except I only have one tank so maybe I can save a little more money on the fuel setup lol. If you have any ideas post some here too. More info the better.

I have another question, I'm wanting to get rid of the glass fuses. Did your wiring harness come with a new fuse panel or have you changed it?

The 85 has glass fuses? My entire wiring is out of an an 87 because the PO swapped from the carb to TBI, so I have an 87 harness and fuse panel which uses the 1st gen blade fuses.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by menace121978

i'm stalking ya buddy! this thread is an easy read... right to the point. i wont clog this one up with brain storming ideas and thoughts. lol!

To anyone reading this: the 28 page thread is definitely worth the read if your serious about this swap lots of detail and ideas. Bob's the man!! looking good buddy!!

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Stalker! LOL

Lol yeah it has some of both.

lowchevytrucks, i'm going w/ a painless kit to get rid of my glass fuses and so i can hide ALL the wiring. its like $575 from summit and i have heard nothing but great stuff on the kit FOR OUR TRUCKS. comes with plenty of length to hide everything. i'm not sure how everything is going to come together w/ the ls harness and i'm a LONG ways away from this step but i have confidence that it will work out nicely (with Bob's help of course lol) with a shaved fire wall also.