5.3 LM7 powered '97 BMW M3 sedan!

Not sure how fitting this porject is here, but being powered an 5.3 LM7, maybe some relevance? http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/please.gif

Any how, current project is '97 BMW M3 sedan, receiving an '01 LM7 and T-56.

Started an LSx powered Nissan 300-ZX project a while back, detailed here;

LSx powered late model Nissan 300-ZX, aka Z-32 - LS1TECH

...moth balled that project, sold the car, kept the LM7 and T-56 with plans to use the powertrain in another car more worthy of the conversion. Stumbled across a 190,000 mile ’97 BMW M3 sedan, 5 speed car, Black on Black. Car runs GREAT, no smoke, doesn’t miss beat, runs every bit its mid 14 second ¼ mile. Everything works, couldn’t more happy. The paint isn’t perfect, but being as this is daily driver, part time auto-crosser, I prefer a few blemishes vs a show car. Previous owner installed a Brembo Big Brake kit and Bilstein struts.
I think the S52 engine and 5 speed already have a home, probably installed in a 260-Z, and then possibly boosted!

Any how, I’ve had the car for approx 3-4 weeks now, LOVE the car. It is so much more capable in the corners and down the straights than my 300-ZX could ever think of being! LSx power will only enhance that! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/wink.gif Weighed it with ¾ tank of fuel, no driver or passengers, a bit portly for and E-36 at 3340 lbs. Front 1620, rear 1720! I didn’t believe the rear weight bias myself so I rechecked it and YEUP! Front to rear weight distribution, 48.5% front, 51.5% rear, AND it seats 4 comfortably, 5 if the rear passengers don’t mind being a little cozy.


These pics were taken by my best friend the day I Picked up the car. The pics really hide the paint flaws very well.

Picking up the car at the Previous Owners house;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...a/DSC_3878.jpg

Sitting in MY driveway!;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...a/DSC_3903.jpg

EMMM PAW-WAW… soon to be LSx paw-waw...
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...a/DSC_3889.jpg

Installed an Alpine head unit and some speakers as soon as I picked up the car, nothing special, just need tunes that sounded little better than OE. Replaced the front corner lights with smoked and have HID Euro Ellipsoids on the way, (should be here Tuesday or Wednesday, pics to follow). Today made a couple other interior changes as well. Mostly getting tired of my iPhone charge cord always being tangled up around the shifter. I keep my iPhone in the cubby behind the shifter next to the parking brake, sometimes under the parking brake handle itself. I don’t like it in the sunglasses cubby ahead of the shifter as it is bit small and the cord was still obnoxious and in the way there as well. Being that is the only use I have for the 12v power port, (Valentine 1 is to be hardwired just as I had it in my 280-Z, Q-45 and 300-ZX) the most logical location to me is just under the arm rest next to the cubby where I keep the iPhone. After disassembling the arm rest and center console, I committed myself modifying the arm rest structure to get the power port in that location, (owning a specialty 240-260-280-Z car shop helps). In the end, I am VERY pleased with out come.

Now with the power port relocated, that left this awkward hole just ahead of the shifter. A few days ago I mentioned to my good friend that I was thinking about installing my S-2000 “Engine Start” button in that location that I had in my 240-Z race car! He just laughed and walked away… I’m convinced we all have some “ricer” in us, mine turned up as this start button, (i.e. the current starting system functions fine, but still have the desire to change it to something different, even though “different” does not enhance the functionality, only the visual presentation.. ) So I installed it as well. I connected the illumination portion to the old cig light lighting wires. Just need to connect the button to the starter wire and it’ll be functional.

Tried to get some pics of the illumination, pics didn’t come out so good, but you’ll get the idea. The OBC lighting is the normal dark orange, but for some reason shows up pink in the pics?!?!

First pic is the original power port with the charge cord tangled around shifter…
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...ld-pwr-prt.jpg


This picture is of the new power port location;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...ew-pwr-prt.jpg


The Honda S-2000 start button, (looks OE);
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...dna/Start1.jpg

Illumintaed;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...tart-illum.jpg

Overall interior shot, iPhone is charging under the arm rest, out of sight, no obnoxious cords in the way. ;-)
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8.../Edna/Int1.jpg

Just a small update, nothing big, yet…

The project is moving forward, sold the M3 power train to a local HBZ member that will be installing it in an S-30 chassis. (He drove the M3 a few times and feels that the BMW M3 power train would be SAH-WEET in a Z car…) ;-)

My approach to the LSx powered E36 is one of simple functionality while retaining the quality BMW ride and driving experience, i.e. no harsh vibrations, loud exhaust etc. A no nonsense LSx conversion. Nothing radical, not blingy, just a simple, “affordable” LSx powered E-36 daily driver that gets comparable MPG as the original power-plant, when not mashing the loud pedal. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/wink.gif

I am sitting on a 2001 5.3 out of my wifes '01 Suburban. At 160,xxx this 5.3 it ate the cam. Bought her a used 5.3 engine and swapped it in her Burb, she his tickled pink. So am I as I now have a "starter motor" for my E36. Removed the heads and removed the bungled camshaft and lifters, (detailed write up regarding the camshaft elsewhere on this forum). Purchased a 2001 Vette LS1 camshaft, new roller lifters, several other parts and goodies including oil pans, exhaust manifolds for mock ups, etc. Picked up a WS6 T-56 and LS6 clutch/flywheel package that is currently sitting under the bench right now awaiting installation! Long term plan is to stuff a pert-neer stock 6.0 under the hood,

I do have some help with this particular project, updates with details and pics will be sparse during the beginning, though when the “helper” is satisfied and deems all systems are go, there will be plenty of details, pics, etc. From my conversations with my helper, Once we start posting the specifics with details, etc, anyone else interested in doing this conversion with this approach will be very interested in… http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/wink.gif

No turning back now, game on!

A couple hours, (and same amount of beers later), including watching the latest Ken Block video tearing it up at an Airport, http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/ave.gif here we are!

All goes well tomorrow, the 3.2L BMW M-3 S52 engine and trans will be out of the car and weighed on my crane scale. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/wink.gif

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/start1.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/start2.jpg

The last few days progress has been snails pace at best, with company, and family to-do’s, etc, though the M3 Engine and trans is finally out! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/clap.gif

Ron and I immediately removed the A/C compressor bracket, hooked up the scale , zeroed the scale with the lifting chain and weighed the engine trans combo. Engine with the Alternator, intake mani, exhaust mani’s, starter, trans w/flywheel-clutch, oil and coolant, both radiator hoses, 512.2 lbs! Removed the trans, clutch and starter, engine alone weighs 406.4 lbs! Lightweight for a twin cam engine with a cast oil pan! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/perplexed.gif In weighing an LM7 long block at 490 lbs, T-56 is 125-130 lbs, I fully expect the car to gain 150 lbs, give or take 50 lbs… The increase in torque will be worth the penalty. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/cool.gif

More pics…

BMW built the hood hinge to hyperextend to pert-neer vertical, i.e. “service” position, no need to remove the hood!
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/hood.jpg

Engine and trans free from the car;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/out1.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/out2.jpg


Ron found a tag indicating this engine is not the original engine for this car. Might explain why the back side of the valves are “spotless!”
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...dna/valves.jpg

Now the head scratching and reorganization of the engine bay to accept the LSx begins;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/bay1.jpg

Tools, Fluke DMM, Jack pad, Bentley service manual, LSx swap book, and my 3-ring log book;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/Tools.jpg

My log book where I am keeping a detailed account of the progress made, notes and tips from others that have graciously shared their knowledge/experience, etc;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/Logg.jpg

The S52 M3 engine is currently being installed in a friends Datsun 260-Z! He is even talking about possibly boosting it in the future?!

For those interested, here is the build thread of the M3 powered Datsun Z car, pics, and even weighed the complete S52 power-train...

rt260, M Powered - HybridZ

July 18th update!


Finally got around to spending a little time on the car.
Grabbed another stack of my handy dandy manilla wire tags and proceeded to finish tagging each and every engine related connector, hose, plug, wire, etc for the BMW engines new owner while removing the engine harness from the car itself. The original M3 engine is currently being installed in a Datsun 260-Z! I don’t know which is cooler, a Datsun Z car with an M3 engine, (possibly boosted!) or an M3 with an LSx? Race is on! Who'll be up and running first, the M powered Z, or LS powered M? http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/wink.gif
For those interested, Ron started a build thread for the M3 powered Z car… Beauty of that conversion is it is taking place in my shop next to my M3, so I get to drive the Z car once its up and running! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/zomp.gif

rt260, M Powered - HybridZ


Back on topic, LSx powered M car..

After removing the engine harness, cleaning up a few other straggler wires, I removed the X-member, rack-&-pinion, then 3 cans of GUNK brand Foamy-Engine-Degreaser later, the engine bay, X-member, rack, etc is ... well... at least not grimy any more! Loosely bolted in the X-member and rack, ready for initial mock up of the Lsx. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/victory.gif Tossed around the idea of painting the engine bay a smoke gray as I have done in a few other V-8 conversions, (V-8 powered Datsun Z cars), the thought of completely gutting the engine bay including disconnecting the A/C system was not too appealing, and being as this is a daily driver and the car has 192,xxx miles on it, decided against that and to press on with the conversion. OE black is just fine!

Next on the agenda is trace out the umbilical wires between the engine and car. Need to know which ones I will use with the LSx so the BMW electrics will be happy and also for the S-52’s new owner being as he has the other end of that 3 plug umbilical and I’m sure the Factory BMW ECM will want a few bits of that information to keep from running in "limp home" mode. I heard a rumor that BMW made the car electrical wiring a bit more invasive/integrated in with the EFI wiring… http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/puzzled.gif Soon to find out by how much…


The S52 engine harness… It’s not really as menacing as it looks…
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...S52harness.jpg

Engine-to-car Umbilical;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8.../Umbilical.jpg

Engine bay, de-grimed;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/clnbay.jpg

Update with teaser shots…


Bolted the T-56 up to the Vette LS1 mock up block, (T-56 is out of an ’01 WS6, I have been calling it an ’02, sorry), fitted my 5.3 heads and Vette LS1 intake with truck TB, then stabbed the whole she-bang into the M3! WOO HOO!!!! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/victory.gifhttp://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/zomp.gif
LSx and T-56 fits WAY nicer, cleaner, better in the BMW than it does the Nissan Z-32 chassis, (Z-32, aka ‘90-‘96 300-ZX)! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/cool.gif

The common two clearance issues stood out immediately,

1) ABS unit.
2) Steering shaft.

ABS unit is a relocation project. More labor in actually doing it than there will be in head scratching figuring out what is the easiest most logical location.

What makes the steering shaft such a hassle is that it is in the way of the primary exhaust runner of the number 7 exhaust port. My helper on this project, (currently undercover in stealth mode), has mentioned a couple ideas that could help clearance wise. I will be evaluating when I can revisit this project.

For now, I have to pull away from this project till late next week. Our annual family/friends camp-in/cruise-in/Fly-in is this weekend, I have a HUGE list of to-do’s to get the property ready. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/workinprogress.gif

I’ll leave you with these shots for now. Keep in mind, I merely stabbed the LSx in the car, I did NOT position it in any particular location, did not center it, did not adjust its height, nuttin. Literally just set it in the car and took pics. I’m sure its final mounted position will be shifted fore/aft, left/right, up/down from this initial mock up. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/wink.gif


C-5 LS1 mock up block and intake, truck TB, WS-6 T-56! Aka the mocker!
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/Mocker.jpg

Stabbed in the car!
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/Frtl.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/DrvrTp.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/PssTp.jpg

Hood clearance;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/UndrHd.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/HdClr.jpg

Lowest realistic engine position;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/MiHt.jpg

Shifter!
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...up/Shifter.jpg


Trans tunnel shots;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...p/Trnstail.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/TrnsDr.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/TrnsPs.jpg

The infamous steering shaft;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...up/StrShft.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...p/StrShft1.jpg

This update is not real big, just taking care of a few incidentals, getting ready for mounts. ;-)

After taking a peek around the trans while stuffed in the car, made note of all the little bosses and protrusions that pose clearance issues or could pose clearance issues.

Removed the engine and trans from the car, carved off those nubs, bosses, protrusions, blended them in.

Removed the CAGS, (Skip Shift solenoid) from the trans, tapped as deep as my ½” x14 NPT tap would go, then with a metric 13mm plug from a Datsun Z car cylinder head, (thread pitch is perfect match, just slightly smaller diameter), plugged the CAGS hole.

The reverse switch could be a clearance issue depending on how far offset the engine is set. +1" to the passenger side, leave approx. 1" between the switch and the tunnel! I may relocate it to the reverse lock out location, will have to play with that a-bit first. Read on…

Removed the reverse lock out solenoid only to find it had been gutted by a previous owner! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/shrug.gif My guess is they either thought it was the CAGS solenoid or was having troubles with it. At any rate, I either need to get another reverse lock out actuator or using the reverse light switch, add some spring tension to it, fab/machine a mount for it to to fit in the T-56 Reverse lock out pocket. The added spring tension the reverse switch would add should reduce the tendency to hit Reverse when aggressively grabbing 5th. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/cool.gif That' the theory any how... Like the ZF BMW 5 speed, to engage reverse require a LOT of effort to overcome the added spring tension, (keeps from inadvertently grabbing reverse), using that same concept for the T-56. If I am able to make that happen, I wont need skip shift actuator and that will allow the trans to sit closer to the passenger side of the car without interfering with the trans tunnel. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/victory.gif


Today spent a couple hours porting my 5.3 cylinder heads, 706 castings. Being as this is my interim LSx and just a 5.3, I didn’t go crazy just a little valve unshrouding, removed the roof of the exhaust port making them “D” ports, and blended the seats into the ports for a smoother transition in that region, (removed the sharp edge/ridge). In the next couple days, time permitting, I will cut the valve seats with 4 or 5 angles, surface the heads and assemble them. Valves have already been faced, added a 30 degree back cut to the exhaust, (intakes already have a 30 degree back-cut from GM).

Once the heads are done, will install them back on the short block along with the 2000 Vette cam, (dur @ .050” 198/209 Vlv Lft.500”/.500”, 115.5 deg LSA) LS6 yellow springs, LS6 take out roller lifters, all new gaskets, ported oil pump, new water pump etc. Engine will be ready for mounts in approx 3-4 weeks.

Pics of this weeks progress.

Some of the bosses removed;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/bsss1.jpg


CAGS plug;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...d%20up/tap.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/plug.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/plug1.jpg

Head porting;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...nshrouding.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/ExPts.jpg

Had big plans today to get the heads finished, assembled and possibly installed on the short block! Between running my wife’s daily driver into town for new tires and changing the oil in it, then goofing off online, ordering a pilot bearing, etc, I didn’t quite meet my goal though did get a little done. All the treaded holes are now chamfered and chased the threads, removed the broken exhaust bolt and heli-coiled that hole. Tomorrow, I hope to get the machine work done, (cut the seats, deck the heads), as well as final cleaning and assembly. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/please.gif

For those interested, here are all the thread sizes for the various threaded holes in the LSx cylinder heads.

Spark plug 14x1.25mm
Coolant temp port 12x1.5mm
Ancillary/accy holes 10x1.5mm
Exhaust manifold 8x1.25
Rocker arm mounting bosses 8x1.25mm
Intake manifold 6x1.0mm
Valve cover hold down 6x1.0mm
Steam tube hold down 6x1.0mm

Till the next update…

Got around to cutting the valve seats and surfacing the heads today. Machine work is now done. 4 angles on the seats, (technically 5, but the chamber cutter only left its radius, not the flat, so I’m not counting it), performed just a tad more hand blending after using the chamber cutter. Intake seats are .040” wide, exhaust seats are .060” wide. Both intake and exhaust valve also have a 30 degree back cut.

During surfacing, I only took .004” off each head, they both cleaned up 100% in .003”. (A huge thank you to my wife for not overheating the engine over the past 160,xxx miles).http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/smooch.gif

Next step is to CC the chambers, setup the valve train, final clean, assembly, then attach the heads to the short block. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/victory.gif


Intake and exhaust seats just after the first cut, 3 angles, (30, 45 and 60 degrees). The final 2 angles are added with separate cutters.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/3angl.jpg

Ready to be removed from the mill after being surfaced;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/mach2.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/mach3.jpg

Machine work done, awaiting final clean;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/mach4.jpg

Happiness is;
Torqueing the last bolt on your LSx long block!

I dub this mild 5.3 the LS-7/8ths. (just shy of an LS1). http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/wink.gif

Found a good spot for the 16 valve emblem, though probably will end up putting it under the hood somewhere.
Valve covers will be wrinkle black! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/victory.gif


http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/cvrls.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...d%20up/cvr.jpg


http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8.../Edna/16vM.jpg

Ohhh.. Ahhh..
Wrinkle black valve covers…
Sorry there isn’t much more than that right now… I’ve been asked to “slow down”! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/caffeine.gif Problem with that is if I go any slower I’ll stall! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/wink.gif I’ve got approx 2-3 more weeks of head scratching, gives my help a little more time. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/workinprogress.gif


http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/blkvlv.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...up/blkvlv1.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...up/blkvlv2.jpg

Not much to update. Just stabbing, restabbing, and stabbing the power train in and out of the car, looking for that elusive sweet spot mounting location. After some component modification and then finessing the power-train in a few locations in the car, I did find a spot I like with few compromises. Keeps the crank C/L “angle” (up and down) in line with the OE BMW, decent “compromise” in clearance around the typical tight areas. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/wink.gif

Gahts a bits mah hed itch-en bed-fah I’s commits to dis spot…

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...p/DSC_2990.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...p/DSC_2992.jpg

What a project! Dig the valvecovers, how did you do that?

You work fast and it looks good. I want to see how you get the headers to fit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by r6z4o6

What a project! Dig the valvecovers, how did you do that?

---

VHT brand wrinkle spray paint. These valve covers actually came out not as good as they could have, too thin in some places, shiny areas... http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/shy.gif

Been using this wrinkle paint since the early '90's on valve covers, and other engine bay related parts. looks quality OE, Very tough, resistant to oils, gas, engine bay heat, cleans well, etc.

Key to the wrinkle paints is HEAT! You want to get the part to 110-180 degrees for a good quick wrinkle. PReheat the part, paint and continue to apply heat until the wrinkle sets up. It will work at 100 degres as well, jut not as fast. Below 80 degrees, its hit and miss if it will even wrinkle and if it does, its spotty at best. My good freind uses his gas grill, lid partly open heat low. I have used the oven, wifes HATES it as the paint fumes fill the house for few hours, but it works so well at controlling the heat! For parts the size of the LSx valve covers on mild days in the 6-70 degree temp range, I have used heat gun with success, just takes a while to preheat the part. On cooler days, the heat gun might not be enough.

thats gonna be a mean beemer

I’ve been lazy the past week and a half, not much physical progress. Went out to the shop and looked over the car a bit, looked over the pan/x-member a bit, glanced at the cruise control, pretty sure I found a cool new location for the ABS module, found a neat little reverse switch mod, (reverse switch on the trans is REAL close to the trans tunnel), drank more than few FOSTERS’s over that period… This whacked out work schedule I’m sure has had some influence on the lack of motivation as well. Positive motivation is this the BMW is my daily driver, so in the mean time I have been driving Plan “B” and Plan “C”, (Plan “B” is an ’85 Scooby-Doo GL wagon that was given to me for free, 200,295 miles on it now, engine starting ticking pretty loudly this week, plan “C” is my ’90 Chev full size Ext cab 2wd parts/shop/farm truck!) With Plan B looking like it needs a new engine, (engine swap of course, EJ22), the LS 7/8 powered M3 must move forward…

The big news is that I finally committed to my Engine Management system. In “talking” to my dealer for the WOLF V-500, he did some scrounging and found that WOLF has been using the V-500 on GM Gen II engine with the 24 tooth crank and rear cam trigger. Universal harness ordered in the next week and WOLF will provide the LSx config and maps! Wolf being speed density that means no MAF to deal with when plumbing the intake! For those interested in aftermarket EMS, take a look at the WOLF V-500.
Advanced Engine Management - Wolf EFI Electronic Fuel Injection and Performance Ignition Control Systems
Bang for the buck, it compares nicely to the uber-exotic offerings with 8 channel sequential ignition output, tons of user definable inputs and outputs, VVT control, GM idle air control, Staged injectors or blending of for those running exotic fuels such as Meth blends, race gas in separate tanks, etc. It will even support MAF for those who like the their MAF, most just delete the MAF and go speed density! Tons of boost support for those of you addicted to boost with built turbo timer, etc. I ran this on my ’93 300-ZX before I sold the car, LOVED the user interface, controllability, and mostly the consistency in how the engine ran vs the OE Nissan EFI! Ran smoother, crisper throttle response, seamless, no sacrifice in MPG! For those like myself that are hyper sensitive to noticing when the ECU is making adjustments while driving, the nissan eCU was no exception, the WOLDF I never noticed! it was consistent no matter the temps, the driving style, etc! I understand the GM PCM is very stable and seamless when properly tuned, I have no qualms in using it, but I already have this and now knowing that configuration settings and base maps are available, not too mention I am already somewhat familiar with it, V-500 it is! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/XD.gif

Couple screen shots I took of the WOLF V-500 when I had it on the ZX.

Config settings;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...00/Config1.jpg

Check out ALL the user definable outputs! You set what is controlled by what parameters it is controlled to and from! Shift lights to cooling fans, waste gates to stepper motors. VERY powerful. This EMS is only limited by the installers/tuners imagination!
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...V-500/GPO1.jpg

Spark map for the VG30DE
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8.../ignn-az32.jpg

Data logging;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0/DSC_9160.jpg

very cool project!

Small update, (pun intended...)
Haven’t done much of anything with the car this week. Today my youngest of 3 daughters wanted to help daddy in the shop, so while I was cleaning up after a quick and dirty engine tear down from last week, I handed my 4 year old a Datsun Z car valve spring, intake valve, rocker arm anti rattle spring, air cleaner, hose clamp, and 2 wrenches, pointed to the creeper and she kept herself busy under the M3 for over an hour while I cleaned up the shop! She popped out once in while to drink her apple juice from her sippy cup and to let me know the project was coming along just fine! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/shy.gif http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/love.gif

One of those daddy-daughter moments that you never want to forget! Hope she doesn’t either.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...y/BellHlpr.jpg

Oct 4th update;

Played with engine placement, nothing worthwhile to report on that front, “yet”. ;-)

Did receive my F-body trap door baffle, left my opinion on that here;

100% Bolt-on Trap-Door Baffling for F-Body LSX Oil Pan - HybridZ

Oct 25th update;

Customer projects taking priority. Finished and shipped one of our custom L-6 cylinder heads, on its way to France, received another complete road race engine for a head freshen up with a new valve train, maybe a little valve unshrouding and 5 angle seat work that needs to ship back by the end of the year, and my fathers Turbo Charged SBC 350 short block I need to assemble in the next couple of weeks! http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/witch.gif

As for the M3 LSx project, been doing some research and actual fitment of alternative brake options to free up more engine bay space, details of which I am not at liberty to give out at this time, suffice to say, results thus far are quite promising. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/cool.gif

This conversion will incorporate a few changes that will help improve space constraints within the engine bay as well as lower the cost of the typical LSx E36 conversions. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/spaccio.gif

Stay tuned, updates are still coming, but may take few more months for specifics to be released. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/wink.gif

Built another custom LSx specific tool as well;
Specialty LSx tools, DIY! - HybridZ

Oct 27th update;


Drilled and tapped one hole in the 5.3L block for the F-body alternator mount.

After receiving this F-body alt mount from one of our HybridZ members, (Thank you benitoz) it became immediately clear the truck blocks were not manufactured for the car accy drives. 2 of the 4 F-body/Vette mounting bosses missing on the passenger side of the block. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/scratch.gif

A quick search revealed that most just drill and tap the one boss that GM graciously cast in the iron truck blocks and just delete the 4th bolt that GM completely ignored on the truck blocks.

After setting up mine, using a machinists transfer punch then drilling and tapping that boss for 10mm x 1.5 mm, that missing 4th bolt boss looks like it is good idea, but with three 10mm x 1.5mm bolts mounting the alternator already, Ron and I both agree that 4th bolt is probably more for the NVH requirements, making the entire engine and accy package as one mass vs 10-15 individual masses all ringing and vibrating at their own frequency. The Datsun Z car Alternator is mounted with far less attachment and works fine, as such I’m not going to lose any sleep over this. http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/sleep.gif

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...IV/newhole.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...-IV/bolts2.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8.../trnfrpnch.jpg

Nov 13th update;


Nothing to update on the build itself, yet, other than I wanted to share an LSx swappers gold mine with you all. Nook & Tranny has wonderful page set up with some great tech and specs info on the various LSx engines an accessories for those of us swapping the LSx into non GM vehicles. Specs page lists the differences in intake’s heads, throttle bodies, oil pans, water pumps, accy drives, balancers, etc. They sell LSx specific parts such as accy drives, water pumps etc. Ordered more than few parts from them, including water pump, lots of gaskets, hardware, etc, customer service is first rate. ;-)

Here is the LSx specs page;
LSx Information

Todays update;

Did a little 4th century style massaging in the tunnel of 20th century German engineering. Turned out Ok, not pretty but ok. "Massaging" was performed in an area not seen and it will get painted for protection.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...up/Midevil.jpg


Overall the LSx powertrain is a nice fit and as most have found out, if you are not modifying the oil pan, cross member, or cutting sections out of the firewall, with the F-body oil pan there really is only a very small window this power train package will fit within.

My latest mock up, I have established adequate clearances, trans output shaft is aimed directly at the diff input and is within .2 degrees, (2 tenths of a dregree) angularity up and down.

Here are some shot of the latest mock up;

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8.../TnlEntPs2.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/RevSw1.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...d%20up/PnX.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/PnDrDn.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/TlUD.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/Shft.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/Diff.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/AnglTl.jpg

:drool: :drool: and :drool:

Just saw this, and it totally blows my hair back! Sweet project, how's it coming along?

DOH! Sorry about that guys. I let this build thread slip by. Here are some more updates;


Power Steering update.
Received an F-body P/S pump and now have the high pressure side of the power steering finished. Took the F-bod PS hose and M3 PS hose down to my favorite fluid line guys, (Oil Filter Service in Portland OR), showed them what I needed and let them build it the way they felt it should be built, and wa-la. F-bod hard line coming out of the P/S pump, Aeroquip hose in between with Aeroquip fittings beautifully soldered onto the GM and BMW hard lines, and the BMW Banjo fitting for the rack attachment. This new custom hose fits perfectly as it coils nicely around the alternator without touching anything.

I do have an idea for another custom built high pressure and low pressure line, would end up nicer than this and probably not much more in cost. Here are the pics;

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...x-M3PShose.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...Shoseinst1.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...PShoseinst.jpg

We are to the point I can divulge a little more about this conversion that I wasn’t at liberty to before.
I am collaborating with Mike Knell of Jags That Run prototyping an over the counter LSx conversion for the ’92-’99 BMW 3 series, (chassis code of E36). Should be completed by late summer if all goes well. Some items and tech info is posted on his web site here;

Stealth Conversions BMW V8 Parts

We found that Mercedes used a smaller diameter brake booster in some of its cars, and it just so happens those booster fit the BMW, (with a little help), allowing adequate valve cover to booster clearance.

Here is one such booster, M3 master cylinder and the JTR adapter;

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/Adpt2.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...20up/Ftmnt.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...up/Fitmnt2.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...%20up/Clr2.jpg[/QUOTE]

Engine mount brackets by JTR;

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...up/Brackt1.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8.../DrvBrckt1.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8.../DrvBrckt2.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...0up/AltClr.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...p/PsBrckt1.jpg

Got enough exhaust manifolds? Geez dude! :lol:

That is sweet project,looking forward to seeing it run

Quote:

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Originally Posted by truckinL33

Got enough exhaust manifolds? Geez dude! :lol:

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:LOL: Well... yes, and no... It's nice to have them for mocking up the LSx in various chassis in hopes a stock manifold just might fit. LS1/6 C5 Vette, LS2/3 C-6 Vette, Caddy CTS-V, LS1/2 GTO, F-body, and truck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jake_03

That is sweet project,looking forward to seeing it run

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Thank you. I am also looking forward to seeing this run, hopefully soon...:luv:

BREAK THROUGH on the clutch line!


Short version;
OE GM LSx clutch line fits the BMW master cylinder with a small massage, no need to buy fittings, cut the GM clutch line, etc...
Only thing needed to buy other than your slave cylinder is a remote bleeder line/kit like the one from TICKshift.com.
I did hammer the tunnel about 3/4" deep trough where the clutch line comes out of the bell-housing to relax the bend on the clutch line, fits nice in the tunnel.

Long version;
Yesterday in finishing up the clutch lines, I was going to go the typical route and cut the GM clutch line, install the -4 fitting, use the -4 to 10mmx1.0mm ISO bubble flare fitting, yadda yadda yadda, but with the GM clutch hose hooked up the trans I noticed its length is absolutely perfect in that it reaches the BMW master cylinder. I got to looking at the BMW master cylinder connection a little closer, removed the hard line retaining clip and wiggled the hard line out of the M/C and thought about what it might take to get the GM clutch line to plug into the BMW Master Cylinder. Spent some time measuring up both the GM and BMW master cylinder connection bores, then the GM and BMW clutch line fittings, sketched them out in AutoCAD and came to the conclusion it can be done. The BMW M/C bore is smooth at the O-ring diameter for what looks like all the way to the piston so the GM fitting could sit at any depth past the minimum. So I chucked the GM clutch line in the lathe and machined .020" off the diameter of the GM fitting as shown below and added a .040" tall chamfer to allow it to sit deep enough into the M/C to accept the BMW retaining clip and that's it, fits PERFECT! Using the GM O-ring, (BMW O-ring will not fit the GM fitting), it ends up compressing a total of .021” more than it does in the GM M/C, (tighter fit), not so much it causes any issues wit sealing, over squishing, etc. Surprising part is with a little brake fluid on the O-ring it doesn’t feel any tighter when installing it. Installed and removed several times to verify fitment. Best part is the GM clutch line is already the perfect length!


Here are the drawings and pics, enjoy…


BMW Master Cylinder connection detail;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...MCfittings.jpg


GM LSx Master Cylinder connection detail;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...chfittings.jpg


Hybrid LSx line-BMW Master Cylinder;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...chfittings.jpg


3D render of the Hybrid connection.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...p/Hybrid3d.jpg


Retaining clip fits perfectly behind the crimped fitting;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...p/Clipfits.jpg


Prior to installation;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...nsertdepth.jpg


INSTALLED! Retaining clip holds it firmly, wont go in any deeper or come out and it is already the PERFECT length! SAH-WEEET…

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8.../Installed.jpg

Wow! I have to say that I am more impressed than I have been in a long time. I have seen a lot of swaps, strange ones at that, and that it sounds like you can easily get this done with all of the details worked out. Not just throwing it in there and it just hanging by a string.. Cant wait to see this done!

Let's hope nothing breaks on the car for a long time, looks very custom. Any kind of machine work on just one piece is always alot of money, unless you have some kind of connection in the industry.

Overall, this project is actually supposed to be quite easy to replicate, not only for myself if the car gets damaged, but this conversion is a prototype conversion kit that will be available from Jags That Run this summer;

Stealth Conversions BMW V8 Parts

... for others to be able to “bolt-in” an LSx into their BMW E36 car, (’92-’99 3 series), including the brake booster spacer, mounts, driveline adaptor, radiator hose connectors, etc. Of course the conversion will require the installer to utilize readily available local resources that any garage tinker would normally utilize for his/her small projects, such as adapting the P/S lines from GM pump to BMW rack or just order the fittings and assemble his/her self, etc. The clutch line fitting is a used Camaro/Firebird clutch line with simple massage to the outside diameter of the fitting that inserts to the Clutch master cylinder, not a “one-off" custom part.

And example of a custom one-off car project that would suck if the car was ever damaged is my best friends Datsun 510 project that he recently sold. He installed an SR20DET engine which was that bad, even with the custom X-member for the engine, (could be built again if needed and bolts to the car). He also converted the complete front suspension and recirc-ball steering over to BMW E30 with power rack and pinion and much more aggressive suspension geometery;

510 (Bart), SR20DET powered w/BMW suspension - HybridZ

That meant cutting out the strut towers, building from scratch brand new strut towers, custom modified body frame rails for the different lower control arm mounting, connecting the BMW rack to the Datsun steering shaft, etc. Lots of custom one off parts that if he wrecked the car would not be easy to replicate, nor would he want too.

Having done more than few engine conversions over the years, one thing that I am focusing on is being able to replicate the parts and labor whether I build another for myself, wife, friend, or need to replace this one for any reason and do so with as little compromise as possible. Being a machinist and having a mill and lathe in my shop helps, at that there really aren’t many custom machined one-off components that would be hard to replicate even if I didn’t have access to a machine shop. The specific conversion components are available from JTR.

With the engine and trans just sitting in the car, using a remote reservoir, filled the clutch line, bled the clutch and wa-la, got clutch action and NO leaks! Clutch pedal “feels” pretty good, though wont for sure until the engine is running. Pedal pressure starts right off the top, has a slight ramp up in pressure till approx 2/3 pedal down then has a very distinct over-center feel as the pedal effort gets considerably lighter closer to the floor. Overall pedal effort feels about the same as I recall the stock M-3 clutch effort and next to Rons ’98 M-3, is the same but with a more pronounced over-center feel.

Spent a bit of the day upgrading my DIY brake pressure bleeder and setting up a BMW M/C reservoir cap for it. Hoping to have the ABS relocated and with new lines brakes done by the end of next week, or sooner. ;-)



Pic from engine bay;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...p/DSC_5199.jpg



Pic from under the car;
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...p/DSC_5200.jpg

the build looks awesome!! how are u gonna get the exhaust around the steering shaft?