where do i start? i have a block out of a 2005 or so. what do i do about motor mounts? im gonna use a 700r4 tranny. ls6 heads and intake, possibly blower, nitrous maybe, just some ideas and how to do the motor mounts.
Printable View
where do i start? i have a block out of a 2005 or so. what do i do about motor mounts? im gonna use a 700r4 tranny. ls6 heads and intake, possibly blower, nitrous maybe, just some ideas and how to do the motor mounts.
i got mine from carshopinc on ebay.
There are several companies making the ls1 plates.
Thanks!! now i just gotta find someone who will weld it for me.
I used Transdapt plates for mine. No welding, strictly bolt on.
It looks like i'm going to search for a 6.0 for the '85 to keep up with you boys. I've done alot of searching theres tons of kits out there including headers and motormounts and tons of other goodies.
I'm going to wait until winter to tear into this project. If you wanna help i'll provide the beer!
where do i go for these transdapt plates?
I found some on jegs. let me see if I can be of some help and find them again.
I believe the part number is #969-4592.... anyone please correct me if i'm wrong. it says their $53.99.
i bought the trasdapt plates for my 82 c10 and they didnt work for me.
Trans Dapt Performance Products - Engine Swap Motor Mount KitsQuote:
Originally Posted by Venom
I used the factory location mounts part #4572
Which ones did you use because I didnt have a problem with mine?Quote:
Originally Posted by lechez71
What did you use for a fuel pump?
Keep in mind that to use the TH700R4, you will need to use a cable actuated throttle body to be able to connect the TV cable from the trans. You won't be able to do that with a drive by wire TB. It would get even trickier if relocating the TB for a supercharger, although it could be done with a custom TV cable and brackets though, just a little trickier.Quote:
Originally Posted by Venom
You can make your own engine mount plates fairly easy:
http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/imag...ount_plate.jpg
A ton of good info and part numbers here:
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...-ls1-swap.html
thanks alot!! anyone have help info on what to do with the fuel tank and pump?
As in what? Do you want to keep it? You can use the existing tank(s), or get baffled tanks from an 87. Use an ACDelco EP381 in-tank pump, and if you use a single fuel line/returnless system, use a 99 Vette filter/regulator. Use a good quality fuel injection hose and smooth stainless clamps to make connections at the sending unit and filter/regulator.
I have a list of part numbers and places to get the best prices for a complete dual tank fuel system on my computer at work. I can PM it to you if you would like.
Can you just post the information here? It would be great for other people who are doing this type of swap. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by glock35ipsc
Ask and you shall receive!
* AC Delco EP381 in-tank pumps. $69 each at FE0114 - Electric Fuel Pump
* Pollak high psi tank selector valve, this is a direct OEM replacement (JC Whitney p/n ZX812705U) $83
* Fuel selector switch from an 87, replaces existing dash switch (AC Delco p/n D7089C) $11.50 at rockauto.com
* Corvette filter/regulator if running a returnless/1 line system (WIX p/n 33737) $34 at rockauto.com
If you don't already have in-tank pumps, you'll need sending units:
* Dorman p/n 692027 for the driver side, $94 at rockauto.com
* Dorman p/n 692044 for the passenger side, $101 at rockauto.com
To make the connections at the filter/regulator:
The inexpensive way:
* 3/8" female connector (Dorman p/n 800121) $6.30 at rockauto.com
* 5/16" female connector (Dorman p/n 800120) $6.30 at rockauto.com
* 3/8" x 12" double ended male connector (Dorman p/n 800155) $8.20 at rockauto.com
The "nicer looking" way:
* 3/8" to -6AN straight fitting, Russell #640850
* 5/16" to -6 AN straight fitting, Russell #640860
* -6AN to -6AN union, Russell #660350
* -6AN tube sleeve, Russell #660650
* -6AN tube nut, Russell #660571
And be sure to use a good quality high psi fuel pressure hose for connections, not regular fuel line. And use smooth stainless fuel hose clamps that look like these:
http://www.partssystems.com/images/T/fuel-01.JPG
If anyone see's something I forgot let me know, and I'll edit the post.
Sweet thanks for that. So which motor is going to be the easiest to put in. a drive by wire or a drive by cable?
Cable!
Cable is easiest. Use the donor vehicles cable, you only need to file the firewall hole open a touch qnd everything should fall in place.
Wire is pretty easy too, just some minor fab to mount the pedal on the inside.
I am going with drive by wire because I like the cleaner look under the hood (no throttle or cruise cables), and I can keep the OEM cruise control by only connecting a few wires.
Thanks buddy!:thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by glock35ipsc
i used #4572Quote:
Originally Posted by ls182
I'm really pumped about this project. My favorite body style pickup matched with a very reliable, powerful motor. I'm a little curious on how the cruise control will work. I know the th350 I have now runs on vacuum. and I assume if I go with a 4l60 or 80 it will be a little bit of work.
Your welcome! I'm trying to do as much research as I can before I do mine so there are as few surprises as possible! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by ls182
If you use a drive by wire TB, it's pretty straight forward:Quote:
Originally Posted by lowchevytrucks8503
Drive By Wire Infomration Vortec Engines
and
Drive by wire
and
http://chevythunder.com/2004%20Corve...20page%201.gif
Well I know i want to use a newer 5.3 or 6.0 so it will be wire. I'm sure I can figure it out.
Grab you a stock Harness, send it to Nelson so the can play with it, get the dbw harness from pedal to module on firewall from the donor vehicle, cut the pedal bout half way up and weld it where you need it. As for a fuel pump, if you are gonna make power go with a walbro 255. Edelbrock has a variation that should mount in your sending unit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by glock35ipsc
did you use the original tank or did you use a '87 baffled tank?
what about headers, speedometer?
can we get someone to get this info together and stickie it?
Using the original 85 tanks. The truck had once been converted to TBI, and most everything but the tanks was swapped over. I haven't had any trouble except one time I let a tank get below 1/4, and it tried to die on a hard brake situation. Otherwise, no problems.
Stock manifolds, and a 90-91 Suburban electronic speedo.
Crap, this:
* 3/8" x 12" double ended male connector (Dorman p/n 800120) $8.20 at rockauto.com
should be part number 800155, NOT 800120.
Thanks for the info. I've read your thread on 67-72chevytrucks.com
Can I use the '85 fuel lines? I'm sorry for all the questions.
No problem. As far as the lines from the tanks to the switching valve, yes. And you should be able to use the feed line too. If you are running an older engine that uses a return line, you will need to run a return from the fuel rail to the valve. But if you are using a returnless system you wont need it then, just from the filter/regulator to the valve.
I changed my original idea a little, and I will be running 2 filter/regulators. They will both be between the tanks and the valve.
Wish I would've started with a pickup as clean as yours. Mine is perrty ruff. I only have one tank on mine.
I'm thinking of using a newer 6.0/4l80. I've decided that much. I really want to run headers so I'll see what's available and fits.
did you go with 6.0/4l80 or what's your setup?
lol never mind. Found project "Fred" I'm going to thoroughly read it thanks again
I only have one tank so my setup should be easier then the two tank setup.