My swap (again) is from a 2002 F-body.
There is a vacuum line wrapped into the stock harness. It was not hooked to anything at either end.
Does anyone know where this is supposed to go? Tranny, does the 4L60E need any vacuum?
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My swap (again) is from a 2002 F-body.
There is a vacuum line wrapped into the stock harness. It was not hooked to anything at either end.
Does anyone know where this is supposed to go? Tranny, does the 4L60E need any vacuum?
not unless you have a vac modulator on it. 4L60Es (stock) do not. FLT can build you a top notch trans with one for a price.
"Modulator"
I thought maybe that is what it was for. Not to savy on all this electronic stuff.
Checked a Motors manual at the Library, but I couldn't track it down. I will look at it again.
Just trying to figure out what it's for (where it goes)
Getting closer to turning the key. Still some things to pick up (damn thieves).
I believe that vac line goes to the duct controls. The line starts at the back of the intake manifold and I know if you remove it, the air ducts won't work.
You don't need it, I'm pretty sure of it.
You can just cap the rear of the intake manifold where it was hooked up.
good luck and let me know how it turns out.
thanks,
allen
The 4L60E trans, "E" standing for electronic. Has no vacuum driven componets.
So,,,,,,, the small tube (metal) that comes off the upper surface. It is about the same dia as a typical vacuum line. Is it just a vent tube?
The dash has vacuum operated components so the dash needs vacuum. It gets the vacuum from the fitting on the back of the intake manifold, next to the MAP sensor on LS1s. BTW, they make a vacuum modulator kit for the 4L60E to control the fluid pressure inside the trans. It's still shifted electronically but the fluid pressure would then be vacuum regulated. I believe that is what they were speaking of. :thumb:
Your talking the F-body dash, correct?
Allen stated we do not need vacuum (except obviously the power brake can) and his harness has deleted the plug for the vacuum sensor mounted on the top rear of the left bank (valve cover).
I am fine with all that. BUT, what is the metal tube comming out of the transmission housing, above where the cooling lines exit (about top dead center where the casting seam is) ???
And another question:::::::::::::::::::::
The harness has deleted another plug that would go into another gas line (the return line?). Its location is on the left front corner of the intake and a brass nipple that comes out the left side behind the throttle body.
If it is, do I just run it back into the return line into the tank? or cap it off?
This is not nearly as easy as working on my '66 vette. Will be nice when it is complete though.
Thanks,
Jon
The line on top of the transmission is a vent to bleed off air pressure that builds up as the fluids warm up. it goes nowhere. The sensor/module that hooks to the driver side of the throttle body is the fuel vapor recovery from the fuel tank. Most guys remove that totally from the system.
Thank you "Red"
Actually that is what I thought it was (a vent tube for pressure build up).
Vacuum -
***will cap all off, except the brake booster***
Fuel feed (lines)-
If I cap off the brass nipple and remove the sensor (Delphi 1997278)
It only leaves me (1) line (the feed line)
*** I am not finding the return line. Is there one? If so, where?
* If not, then I will get the Corvette filter and plumb it in.
I feel like I am 16 again (but feeling I know less now).
I have searched and read, searched and read and searched and read, so much I think
my eyes are bleeding.
All this just from laying Allen's harness next to the stock one. Wait 'til I start hooking it up.
Depending on what year vehicle, 97-98 Corvette had a return on the fuel rails, none of the other LS1s did. Return style Corvette fuel rail is needed unless you change to billet fuel rails with a regulator to return the excess pressure to the tank after the fuel passes through the rails.
Out of an '02 F-body (WS6 Trans-Am).
I read,
this means I will only need (1) line from my tank.
*** I will cap off the line to the charcoal can ***
*** I will cap off the return line ***
and all will be good (fuel wise) Right?
Thanks again for leading me by the hand.
You will need the return line to the fuel tank. In the conversion section there is a write-up on how to convert the OBS trucks to an LS1. Within the writing is a description on how to handle the fuel filter and supply lines. I don't do anything with the fuel tank vent hose except hook it directly to the brass fitting on the driver side of the throttle body when I go for vehicle inspections. Afterwards I disconnect it and cap the TB fitting and vent the fumes to the atmosphere.
Thanks again "Red"
Did more reading and searching. Found nothing that I hadn't already read.
It did refresh my memory. My conclusion is there will only be (1) fuel line going to the engine.
The return line will only run between the tank and the proper (vette) filter.
Curiosity has me asking,,, why don't you just leave the vapor line hooked up?
I live in an emission test community, wonder if this thing will pass.
I think I am going to eliminate the charcoal canister. As I am going to run an air duct from each
side or the radiator. I did find a 28" rad (local, all metal). Thanks again "Red" for the offer, some time back.
The removal of the that "can" will also clean up the engine bay a bit.
Yes, use the vette filter/regulator and the retune from it goes back to the tank and the feed to your one line on the fuel rail.
I went to Napa for the quick disconnect lines on the vette filter.
good luck and let me know if you have any questions on the harness.
allen
Yeah, I remove the line to clean the engine bay up. I removed the charcoal canister because it fugglies up the under hood area and I need the space for my air cleaner. They sniffer and visual test us once a year around here.
Emissions here (PNW) every other year.
The harness,,, I need to find a nice tight fitting grommet and fab a plate to cover the rectangular hole in the firewall where the old wires went thru. My PCM will be tucked in the same place as the stock one, since the stock one is no longer around. Yep, theives took it too.
Can someone please tell me what the sensor is that is located on the right side of the oil pan (just below the starter)?
Is it needed? ('02 F-body)
The harness has no plug for this.
The harness also has male plugs for the O2 sensors (so do my sensors), frustrating to say the least. Yes, I have read the pinned posts and found the part no's for the ones that I need (great, more stuff to buy). Now I'll have (4) O2's I can't use.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(project92 @ Feb 27 2007, 07:49 PM) [snapback]84715[/snapback]</div>That is the oil level warning sensor, not needed. That sensor won't be incorporated in the harness.Quote:
Can someone please tell me what the sensor is that is located on the right side of the oil pan (just below the starter)?
Is it needed? ('02 F-body)
The harness has no plug for this.
The harness also has male plugs for the O2 sensors (so do my sensors), frustrating to say the least. Yes, I have read the pinned posts and found the part no's for the ones that I need (great, more stuff to buy). Now I'll have (4) O2's I can't use.
[/b]
I can send you some conversion harnesses to convert your existing o2's, or you can get 2002 v6 camaro o2's which will have the female plug on it. Either way will work.
Thanks Allen.
I will buy the v6 sensors.
I am sure there will be more questions to follow. :eek:
Edit--- Actually one right now. My MAF is a 3-plug. Which one (4-plug) do I need?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(project92 @ Feb 27 2007, 08:40 PM) [snapback]84720[/snapback]</div>the harness uses a truck maf, 5 pin, 99-05 truck maf will work.Quote:
Thanks Allen.
I will buy the v6 sensors.
I am sure there will be more questions to follow. :eek:
Edit--- Actually one right now. My MAF is a 3-plug. Which one (4-plug) do I need?
[/b]
good luck and let me know if there's anything else,
allen
Thanks again Allen.
The V6 O2's are $62 a shot. So for that I will cut my stock LS1 harness apart for the female plugs.
I'll call you on the conversion harness first. Hate to cut the stock one up.
One step forward and,,,,,,,,,,,,, yep, two steps back.
i bought my last pair on Ebay for $20 each. They were ACDelco.
Thanks "Red"
Oddly, all the stuff I buy off ebay and never thought of that.
"Red",
I placed my order today for the wheel adapters from MotorSport-Technology.Thanks for the lead. Very reasonable cost and very nice (at least per email and on the phone). Asked me where I heard of them from (don't know your name so I said "a guy from the LS1Truck forum" and that they made him a set.
I also went with the wider ones thought they helped fill out the wheel well better. Still kind of doubting the 17" fronts. But the price is right on the wheel set-up.
Wider? 2" wider instead of 1.75" or are you talking 18"s on all four corners? Lost me on that one.
Sometimes I babble on.
Yes the wider adapters. I went with the 2". They push the 18x10.5 out and fill the wheel well nicely. At least with the axles blocked to the right height and a 2" offset measurement on my tape measure.
The front Z06's are a 17x9.5 and that is what I am not sure about.
The front end is back off the truck (for ease of working) making it harder to visualize. I need to get the front end back on and back it out of the shop to get a distance view with the 17/18 fitment.
I admit all this monkey'ing around when I should be hooking up wires.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(project92 @ Mar 2 2007, 09:42 PM) [snapback]85049[/snapback]</div>:laugh:Quote:
I admit all this monkey'ing around when I should be hooking up wires.
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The 17s fit. I had 17s and 18s on my old truck, the red one that was stolen. The offset difference from the 18s vs. the 17s was towards the fenderwell. Watch the inner clearance of the inner wheel lip to the lower a-arm when you turn left to right.
Not real excited about modding the lower A-arm. It'll be an easy hack with the cutoff wheel. I knew I had to do it though.
Should I have staggered the adapters and went with the 1.75 thickness up front? I don't think they are machining them 'til Monday.
Ordered the vette filter on-line from RockAuto.com ($31.xx) plus some other items. Turned a local cost of $160 into $95. Made the shipping wait time worth it.
Good job on the shopping. The 1.75" adapters up front will help to tuck the tires under the fender wells. Be sure you roll the inner fender lip up with a ball bat or a professional tool designed to do that function. If you're nervous about cutting the a-arms get the plates that you weld under the arms to reinforce them. Any shop that does drops sells the plates. I think I got mine from Godfather Customs.
Is it necessary to use/keep the fusable link wires coming off the junction block?