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The 1" setback plates are the way to go. This eliminates driveshaft/crossmember problems. Had I known there were differences between manufacturers of the plates and how they were made, I would have suggested the ones from Trans Dapt. right off the bat. Since all the top holes are in a straight line, this would have moved the clamshell up enough to clear the casting.
As for a course of action, just notch the clamshell. They are plenty thick and strong enough even with a notch or two in them.
The A/C bracket definitely works too. It took some tweaking due to some belt chafing but it all worked out.
http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...sion/016-1.jpg
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So its safe to say I'm I'm this predicament because of you mickey!! Last time I buy some parts you suggest! Haha. Jk man! Well maybe somebody else will come accross this so they won't have an issue. I think ill just notch them rather than space them. I feel more comfortable that way. Ill part pics of that.
im about to buy all the parts for the oil cooler lines. Does anybody know what size for sure the fittings are that go into the radiator and are they npt or flare? I need to get AN---- >whatever size that is to change from the braided hose. I think I read somewhere that rhett are 18mm x 1.5 but that wasn't concrete info. Can anyone confirm? Thanks
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Point taken!!! I have a couple pics of what mine look like. One pic is fuzzy. It's a little tight getting a camera in there for a good shot.
http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...ersion/001.jpg
http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...sion/003-1.jpg
http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...sion/002-1.jpg
Driver's side pics shows oil cooler lines. It's tight but they did work for these plates.
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well not much has happened lately and wont until monday due to me working alot lately. but now that ive got most of the recent issues figured out, i SHOULD be able to drop the motor in on monday. either that or start tackling the rear end i.e. replacing the fuel pump assembly with the newer style, mounting the evap stuff and getting all those wiring connections all finished up... havnt decided yet. im leaning towards the motor cuz i really wanna see it in there!
but i just went through all my recipts for things i have ordered since my last post about the total cost. figured id give you all an update on that in case anyone cares. i think i have purchased everything needed to complete the swap with the exception of air filter/ rad hoses n other small things like that. so far im at a fairly accurate total of $3,125 bucks!
and that includes all the emmisions crap i need which adds about 5 or 600 bucks. i was hoping not to pass the 3k mark but the oil cooler stuff that i just purchased which really isnt neccesary put me over the top but i feel better having it. so for roughly double the cost of rebuilding the POS 350, i am more than satisfied justifying the cost difference for all the benefits of the new motor. plus all the knowledge ive learned is priceless.
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so i stopped by the local chevy dealer the other day to order the brake booster nipple that goes on the back of the intake for regular vacume type boosters. they didnt have it so i had to wait a day to get it. called me the next morn to come pick it up. went over, low and behold they accidentally sent two! the parts guy said i could keep the second! wow.... didnt expect that from a dealer!!! so now i got two. either i give it to someone locally or i will be forced to do another ls swap in order to use it.... what should i do guys?
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...3-01-59_75.jpg
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Lookin' good. Now the fun part: wiring it all up!!!!!!
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ok so i was looking over some things today and found a lot of stuff that need attention that will cost me some bucks.... and i screwed myself on a couple things i did wrong. one of them being that i thought the oil pan was gonna be ok since its a truck motor going into a truck even though i have a 4/6 drop... well i was wrong!!! the pan hangs about an inch lower than the skid plate which leaves it nice and open to hit something and only about 4 inches off the ground.... not a good thing. sssooooooooooooo...... what pans can i get that will fit? obviously has to be a rear sump. and i assume ill need to change the pickup to match. will i need to change the dipstick as well? can i get anything that was in a car like a fbody, vette, gto etc??? and i just bought all of the stuff for the oil cooler so the new pan better have provisions for it.
anybody know where i can get one cheap, have one willing to sell/trade for a truck pan??? because of this damn issue, im pretty well held up at the moment so i gotta get a pan asap.. please help!!
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I have read with a drop your best bet Is a H3 pan
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I ran into the oil pan problem. I used the f body pan, you also have to get the pick up ,windage tray, and dipstick and tube. It also has the place for the oil cooler.
