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Cool looking dash. My truck doesn't deserve anything that nice. Anyway, here's a diagram and description that may clear this up for you. This diagram is for a "99 LS engine from a Silverado. The description below it is also informative.
http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/scan0259.jpg
exactly!! thanks man! thats one of the ways i thought it may be. SO it IS the pcm that is now controlling the "fuel cutoff" rather than the oil pressure switch. thats good info man!! that could be valuable info for someone troubleshooting a fuel pump problem. maybe a bad wire form ignition-pcm or something... just happy to learn something new.
now my next question is..... that means my old pressure switch AND the pcm will both be supplying power to the relay. should i cut out the fuel part of the switch or is it ok to run with them both? i assume everyone else is running with both?
got a lil more done today. got the pcm mounted on a super cutom bracket! haha put some foam in there to help reduce vibrations. and on top of it will sit the new fuse block in its awesome sheet metal enclosure.... tomorrow ill make the top for it and drill whatever holes for the wires are needed and paint it. it should BARELY clear the hood.... well see. and lastly got the stupid pedal installed and plugged in. truck is now officially DBW!! wahoo!!
oh and tomorrow is the day the motor goes in.... im stoked!! there will def be pics up tomorrow of that so stay tuned!
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...-46-00_490.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...-01-30_628.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...-59-26_147.jpg
Use your existing fuel pump relay but use the dark green/white wire from the new PCM to activate the relay. Just undo the activation wire from the old PCM and use the new one. That's it. Simple as ABC.Quote:
Originally Posted by kewljay223
yeah man, thats how i plan on runing it. im just wondering if having both of them controlling the relay can cause problems in the future...
i must be doing something wrong because nobody has mentioned that the clamshell bracket hits the a/c bolt boss on the passenger side and hits the oild looer lines on the driver side... i got the clamshells all ground down smooth, got the adapters on the block WITH THE TRIANGLE PORTION TOWARDS THE FRONT AND THE TWO HOLES ARE ON TOP WITH THE SINGLE HOLE ON BOTTOM. then when i try to put the clamshell on, it hits the block and cooler lines. am i missing something? do i have to grind one or the other and move my oil lines? ive looked around and cant find anyone else with this issue. im tyring to put this thing in but i cant get the damn brackets on! anybody?
Im not aware of any way to use the LS compressor in the stock location without notching the frame. Normally you have to relocate it up top.
i dont mean the mount is hitting the bracket. its hitting the the bolt hole "boss" that the a/c bracket goes on. do i grind this down or notch the bracket? and i did some looking at the oil cooler lines and im not going to be able to use them anyway. so they are not a problem anymore. but the bracket will block off the bolt hole for a couple grounds on the harness which i guess ill have to find a diff location to put that...
i just wanna make sure ive got it mounted right as i havnt seen anybody mention this problem.
Most of these swaps that I have seen use an aftermarket bracket to hang the stock compressor on-and it comes nowhere near the mount.
here is what im talking about.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...6152708295.jpg
as you can see, its hitting the bolt boss part of the block.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...-58-26_254.jpg