4l60E kill stories

A closer tlook at what racing in 3 does to the sprag

notice two sets of clutch splines, the bigger one is the outer sprag race, the smaller splines directly into the sun gear....both can be applied for 1, 2 ,and 3rd gear...during 4th gear the inner clutch splines spin in the opposite direction allowing 4th gear so you get overdrive.

So in normal driving(D) mode just the bigger splines have the clutch pack applied, this transmits all power through the 29 element dual cage sprag....Now when in (3) you get the smaller(overrun clutches) applied as well to help support and take some load off the sprag...if this smaller clutch pack were to be applied during a 4th gear shift the transmission would bind up, thats why its only on in the (3) position.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...rebuild028.jpg
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...rebuild029.jpg
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...rebuild030.jpg

Here is the sprag inside the input drum

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...build014-2.jpg
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...build016-1.jpg
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...build017-1.jpg
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...build018-1.jpg
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...build020-1.jpg

Some neat information on the 3-4 clutch setup for high performance apps. this guy uses the 7 clutch setup with the release springs, I like the Z-pack (pics above installed)

http://reviews.ebay.com/HIGH-PERFORM...00000009059029

PROCARE PERFORMANCE TRANSMISSIONS
THE 3-4 CLUTCH FAILURE IS A COMMON PROBLEM IN THE 700R4 AND 4L60E TRANSMISSIONS. THE 3RD ACCUMULATOR CHECK VALVE IS THE FIRST AREA I CHECK FOR LEAKS IF I HAVE 3-4 FAILURE. THIS IS THE CHECK VALVE YOU SEE WHEN YOU REMOVE THE 2-4 SERVO. AFTER I HAVE CHECKED IT TO DETERMINE IF IT WAS THE CAUSE OF MY CLUTCH FAILURE I REPLACE IT WHETHER IT WAS LEAKING OR NOT. THIS LITTLE VALVE IS A PAIN TO REMOVE. I HAVE FOUND IF I REMOVE THE TIP AND THE SELF TAPPING SCREW FROM A BONDO BRAND DENT PULLER AND THREAD THE DENT PULLER INTO THE VALVE A COUPLE OF WHACKS WITH THE SLIDE HAMMER WILL USUALLY DO THE TRICK. TO INSTALL USE A 3/8" DIAMETER STEEL ROD AND INSTALL THE VALVE ASSEMBLY 1 5/8" BELOW THE WORM TRACK SURFACE. THE OIL FEED SLOTS IN THE CAPSULE MUST LINE UP WITH THE OIL PASSAGE IN THE SERVO BORE. I SUGGEST THE FIRST TIME YOU ATTEMPT THIS BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE CASE AND PURCHASE AN EXTRA CHECK VALVE JUST IN CASE YOU MAKE A MISTAKE.

THE SONNAX SERVO RELEASE CHECK VALVE IS AN EXCELLENT PART TO USE WITH YOUR NEWLY INSTALLED 3RD ACCUMULATOR CHECK VALVE. THE SONNAX VALVE WILL ALLOW YOU TO INCREASE THE 3-4 APPLY OIL AND MAINTAIN SHIFT TIMING. THIS VALVE COMES WITH COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS AND IS A MUST FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS.

THE 3-4 EXHAUST CHECK VALVE IS LOCATED IN THE INPUT DRUM. IT IS THE VALVE YOU SEE NEXT TO THE INPUT SHAFT IF THE DRUM IS ON THE TABLE WITH THE SHAFT POINTED UPWARD AND YOU ARE LOOKING AT THE TOP OF THE DRUM. IF THIS VALVE LEAKS THE APPLY OIL WILL EXHAUST CAUSING THE 3-4 CLUTCHES TO SLIP. IF THIS VALVE IS SLOW TO RELEASE IT WILL CAUSE THE CLUTCHES TO DRAG ON THE 3-2 DOWNSHIFT. IN EITHER CASE YOU WILL EXPERIENCE 3-4 CLUTCH FAILURE. I RECOMMEND THE SUPERIOR RAPID RELEASE CHECK VALVE. IT IS SPRING LOADED AND WILL EXHAUST FLUID QUICKLY. ALSO BECAUSE IT IS SPRING LOADED IT WILL HELP PREVENT CENTRIFUGAL APPLY OF 3-4 ON THE 3-2 DOWNSHIFT DURING HIGH RPM OPERATION.

THE 1-2 ACCUMULATOR IS ANOTHER AREA TO CHECK FOR WEAR . THE FACTORY ACCUMULATOR PISTON NORMALLY WEARS IN THE PIN HOLE AREA OF THE PISTON. THE HOLE IN THE PISTON WILL BECOME EGG SHAPED CAUSING FLUID TO LEAK PAST THE PIN. ANOTHER PROBLEM THAT OCCURS WHEN THIS HAPPENS IS THE PISTON COCKS AND SCORES THE PISTON BORE IN THE CASE. IF YOU CAUGHT THE PROBLEMS BEFORE THE CASE BECOMES DAMAGED I STRONGLY RECOMMEND USING THE SONNAX PINLESS ACCUMULATOR PISTON. THE WIDE PISTON DESIGN PREVENTS COCKING IN THE BORE AND THE PINLESS DESIGN ELIMINATES THE PIN HOLE. IF THE CASE IS DAMAGED I WOULD USE THE SONNAX PISTON AND SLEEVE KIT.

THE 3-4 CLUTCH PISTON IS ANOTHER PART YOU SHOULD NOT TAKE LIGHTLY. THE EARLY ALUMINUM STYLE PISTONS REQUIRE LIP SEALS TO BE INSTALLED. THE LATE STYLE STEEL PISTON HAS THE SEALS MOLDED TO THE PISTON. IT SEEMS TO ME, THE LATE STYLE PISTON WOULD GIVE A BETTER SEAL. A BETTER SEAL WILL PREVENT A HYDRAULIC LEAK. THIS STEEL PISTON CAN BE RETRO FITTED TO ALL 700R4 AND 4L60E TRANSMISSIONS WITHOUT ANY OTHER CHANGES. IF YOU ARE DOING A STOCK OVERHAUL I RECOMMEND REPLACING ALL THREE PISTONS IN THE INPUT DRUM WITH THE NEW STEEL TYPE. IF YOU DO YOU WILL ALSO NEED THE NEW STYLE OVERRUN PISTON SPRING. IF YOU ARE USING A REINFORCED INPUT DRUM YOU WILL HAVE TO USE THE EARLY STYLE ALUMINUM OVERRUN AND FORWARD PISTONS.

WE ARE NOW READY TO CHOOSE A CLUTCH SETUP. OVER THE YEARS GM HAS CHANGED THIS SETUP SEVERAL TIMES AND HAS SETTLED ON A SEVEN FRICTION SIX STEEL STACKUP. NUMEROUS AFTERMARKET COMPANIES HAVE COME OUT WITH A VARIETY OF HIGH PERFORMANCE COMBINATIONS. THE TREND IS EXTRA FRICTIONS AND STEELS. THE PROBLEM IS TO INCREASE THE NUMBER OF FRICTIONS YOU MUST MAKE THE STEELS THINNER. THINNER STEELS CANNOT DISSIPATE HEAT AND EVENTUALLY FAIL. I LIKE USING A SEVEN FRICTION SETUP SIMILIAR TO THE FACTORY SETUP. THE DIFFERENCE IS I USE THE .106" KOLENE STEELS AS COMPARED TO THE FACTORY .097" STEELS. I PREFER THE ALTO RED EAGLE FRICTIONS WHICH ARE APPROXIMATELY THE SAME THICKNESS AS THE FACTORY FRICTIONS. USING THIS SETUP I CAN USE THE HEAVY DUTY .218" FACTORY APPLY PLATE AND A FACTORY BACKING PLATE . THE .144" BACKING PLATE ( MARKED "HD" ) IS NORMALLY THE PLATE YOU WILL NEED AND SOMETIMES YOU WILL NEED THE .065" SNAP RING. I HAVE FOUND THE FACTORY APPLY PLATE AND BACKING PLATES ARE STRONGER THAN THE PLATES SUPPLIED WITH THE AFTERMARKET KITS. TO MAKE IT ALL FIT YOU MUST USE THE 3-4 APPLY RING WITH THE SHORTER LEGS MARKED "7" AND THE INPUT RING GEAR WITH THE 1 5/8" CLUTCH SPLINES. USE THE 5 FACTORY LOAD RELEASE SPRINGS UNLESS YOU ARE USING THE TRANSGO HIGH REV SPRING KIT , IN WHICH CASE YOU WOULD LEAVE THE LOAD RELEASE SPRINGS OUT. I SELL ALL THE PARTS DISCUSSED IN THIS GUIDE IN MY EBAY STORE.

PLEASE VISIT MY EBAY STORE BY CLICKING THE LINK AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS GUIDE. I OFFER INFORMATION AND TECH TIPS ON ALL PARTS I SELL. I CARRY A FULL LINE OF PARTS FOR THE 700R4 AND 4L60E TRANSMISSIONS AT VERY COMPETITIVE PRICES.

good info!!!

good post, i didnt know about putting it in 3rd when getting on it. its been beat on with 400 hp and 500 tq for like 3 years leaving it in drive all the time. i guess im luck it lasted as long as it did. but damn it it finally bit the dirt. the tranny had a bs rebuild on it by the owner before the owner i bought it from so who knows what was done to it.

busted the servo housing clean off the side of the stock (other than a vette servo) trans at a WOT 1-2 shift somehow, got a built 4l60e (z-pak clutches, beast sunshell, shift kit, billet servo, etc..) and grenaded a stock 4 pinion planatery in the second trans..guy at the trans shop couldnt give me any explanation on how it happened of course..had him put a 5 pinion planetarty in it and havent had any trouble since (knock on wood)

Jesus Christ I actually said something that people believe.

Its all Lies PLay Boy :lol:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pl4yboy

Jesus Christ I actually said something that people believe.

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yea i didnt believe it myself either i wish i would have taken pictures for those non believers...i was told i put the vette servowas put in wrong is why the aluminum piece that holds the servo in busted off the trans. but who knows lol. and for the planentary grenading- the guy at the shop showed me what was left of my trans.. he could only get the pump, and reverse and forward drum out. the rest was seized into the trans and he couldnt get it out from where the planetary gear set had come apart at about 6 grand. i have the shop reports and recipts if any one else wants to hate on my 4l60 horror stories :bash:

FLT 4L65E Drum Melted !!!!!