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I forgot to add this. The codes are coming back immediately when you clear them. With the engine off, switch on, clear them and they come right back. It has only ran for a few minutes so could the temp problem be no coolant on the sensor? Or could having the steam tube blocked off cause a problem here?Quote:
Originally Posted by 86 Silverado LS1
what do you mean "steam tube blocked off"? You need the steam crossover tube and return hose IMO. You can verify that you got the air out of the head by removing the steam port block offs until pure coolant runs out the holes with no air. It still sounds like a bad sensor, short or broken wire.
I put a cap on the steam port to crank it. I will tap the water pump this week. Could this have anything to do with the code? Right now it seems to be running rich.
Rich is limp mode. Until the PCM understands what engine temp is current, you get a rich fuel feed to keep from burning the engine up and the extra fuel helps to cool the engine. When it gets really high readings it will shut the ignition off to 1/2 the cylinders and use the fuel to cool the engine.
Thanks for the information. Definitely a nice looking truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by 86 Silverado LS1
daaaamn, i think I just jizzed in my pants.. haha!
the P0118 code would mean a faulty circuit loop (electrical issue). I'd check continuity b/t the PCM connector & the sensor connector for the temp return wire (grey). Something's not right. That code gives me the impression there's a "floating/faulty ground".
The EVAP pressure DTC... dunno why that DTC wasn't disabled (No SES & 3-No Error Reported). It's disabled for me.
P1637... The last time I saw that, I had a bum alternator. I will say that if you purchased a replacement GenIII alternator from a parts store that's NOT an OEM distributor, you're wasting time. The one on my old '02 Yukon failed. I went through THREE alternators from THREE different parts stores, and none of them worked. I went to the dealership, and they mentioned that something internal (diode) isn't designed correctly in aftermarket alternators. The tech told me to run to their supplier (discounted parts placed - wholesale), and pick up a new one. Hadn't had an issue since. I even bought a 135amp alt from them to upgrade the 105 I had in my pickup. Just a thought. The other parts stores swore that I was the dumb one b/c their test bench said their alternators were perfect.
Again... your truck is SWEETNESS! I just noticed that you've got it for sale. WTF?!?!?!?!!! PM me, and let's chat. I just got my truck's exhaust redone with 24" Mags and tailpipes @ 45 degrees out rear-sides. SO MUCH QUIETER!
update. I have been working on factory wiring and lights stuff for the last few days. Remember we took it all apart, down to just the cab when we painted it. no doors, no glass...nothing. As far as the LS1 swap there are only a few problems. I have not taken it to the trans shop yet but it looks like I will have to. Still only have first and second. The trans guy showed me how to get it in third. He says third is there and could be a wire issue. The only other problems are running rich and the temp sensor problem. PO118. I replaced it with a GM unit. That makes two of those. No difference. I will start tracing wires now. The grounds seem fine. I don't know if this stuff is tied together or not. Also, the running rich thing doesn't seem to be consistent. The power is definitely not consistent. I have been playing in the driveway (its long) and sometimes it feels lazy then sometimes it lights the tires up. The times when its right its great. Love the power. Just gotta work some bugs out. This should be a fun truck.
The wires to the temp sensor tested fine and the sensor tested at 1.40 ohms. Any ideas on the running rich problem? As far as the ground...Allen says there is 2 on the harness and they are both good. It is also grounded motor to frame and body to frame. Allen says it isnt a ground problem
Do you have the specs. for the temp. sensor? I ask because I am trying to figure out whether mine is bad or not.