That should be a H2 CAI
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That should be a H2 CAI
I used a CAI for a h2 hummer and kept my battery in stock location. It fits like it was a factory piece i just had to cut a few inches off the tube.Quote:
Originally Posted by 400ss_la paloma
To answer the CAI question....I seriously just went to Ebay and typed in 99-06 Silverado CAI, organized it from least to most expensive, then picked out the one I liked. I didn't have to do a single bit of modiying to make mine fit either.
Well after some issues with the truck these past two weekends, I finally got it all figured out! I was having a rough time with the truck not wanting to idle smoothly or drive without "2footing" it. Once I figured out that I had pinned the ALDL connector wrong, I was able to pull up these codes; P0342, P0122, P0102.
After some figurin out, I found out that I had pinned the Camshaft Posistion Senser wrong, and I also had a bad TPS. I grabbed a TPS from another intake I had laying around, and fixed the CPC connector. Everything went away but the P0102. Which can be attributed to the CAI.
The truck ran really well for not having any tuning done to it! It seems that I set the Bowtie overdrives TV Cable right the first time, the 700R4 shifted really well on my test drive. I'm not going to really get on it until I get my road tune done though.
This is what I have to do though to consider my swap done;
-Get new "Muscle Car" oilpan dipstick from dealer
-Replace radiator (The has a small crack under the upper radiator hose outlet) I've already got a bigger, better one I'm replacing it with today
-Swap out intakes once I finish smoothing out and porting my other intake
-Move ALDL connector inside vehicle, and splice for 2 connectors total
-Check and top off any fluids
-Wash, wash, and wash the engine bay some more
Project looks good. I like how u painted the block copper.
A lot of people have been asking me why I didn't paint more under the hood copper.....Reason being is because the outside of the truck only has a little bit of copper, and I wanted to resemble that in the engine bay. I really like the way it has turned out!
I'm doing a write up on the Holley LS A/C bracket because there was little to no information about someone using truck accessories with their install.
I have done 3 swaps for guys with A/C utilizing the LsBrackets.com R4 bracket which is fine and dandy, but 2 of them came back complaining about vibrations when the A/C kicked on. They eventually settled with it for the time being, but when it came time to my truck I decided that I would give the Holley product a try. Some of the selling points of the bracket for me was; the fact that it looks OE, highly engineered, and more compact than the LsBrackets counterpart.
This thing really looks great out of the box and really doesn't need to be painted, but I had to match the rest of my accesssory drive. It wouldn't look out of place even on a factory vehicle. The Holley A/C Bracket mounts exactly where my old one was originally on my V6 motor. Which meant during this whole ordeal I kept my A/C system sealed up, a big plus in my book! Sorry for the lack of install pics, but the instructions have good pics attached.
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...psbkeme1zm.jpg
The install went in great without a hiccup....if you use the correct parts....My first issue came up when I didn't use the right tensioner. The part number calls for a Gates unit when I had accident picked up a Dayco "no slack" one instead. Turns out that the Dayco unit, is a bit deeper than the Gates one. Once I had figured that out, it was time to figure out the belt length. Which turned out to be a lot harder than expected. First off I was reading the tick marks on the tensioner wrong, then I had to figure out to change the idler pulley next to the alternator on the truck accessory drive to a 76mm one. The reason behind it is just DO IT!!!!Trust me....
Here's the breakdown list of what you'll need if you run the Holley R4 A/C bracket on an LS motor with truck accessories and what to put where.
Holley R4 Bracket - 20-133
" Truck/Camaro '10-up Adaptor - 21-3
Tensioner for 97-04 Corvette(Gates) - 38194
2 76mm pulleys - 38006
93 5/8" 6 Rib Belt - K060930
2 washers around 1/8" thick
The instructions are laid out pretty decently, but here's a quick rundown of whucha gotta do;
1 Swap the pulley on the tensioner for one of the 76mm ones, and put the ribbed plastic one on the Holley bracket itself
2 Swap the original idler next to the alternator, for a 76mm one as well
3 Install 21-3 spacer/adaptor and bracket
4 Install tensioner with the 1/8" washers behind it
5 Install Belt
6 Stay cool
This is what it took for my set-up, the only thing that could maybe be different is the belt size. That's what worked for me, if it doesn't on yours it should at least put you in the ballpark. Any questions just PM me.
*Notes/Edit
-The belt is going to be VERY diffucult and almost seem impossible to put on, but trust me, it's the only one that works. TIP- Slide the belt over water pump at the end to install it.
-Also, the reason you put the washers behid the tensioner is to prevent the belt from wakling off the front of the tensioner pulley. I noticed when I was standing to the side of the motor that the belt was walking dangerously close to the edge of the pulley when revved up, eventually popping off at one time.
Well....here's a little update on my swap....Long story short; I have to get my rear end temporarily rebuilt so I can drive it home Labor Day weekend (6-7 hr drive), get another tune, and try to figure out non-working wipers, speedometer, and oil pressure gauge. :/....
My exhaust was so loud before the swap that I wasn't able to hear the rear end roaring under acceleration and whining when coasted. That, really isn't a big deal, I'm just going to go through and replace the needed bearings to hold me over until I really rebuild the rear with a LSD 3:73's, etc...
The speedometer was working perfectly before the swap, but now....nothing. I have a couple opinions on why that is now. 1) I threw out the cruise box, since the damn thing never worked in the first place and I really don't need it, and the VSS signal is sent through it. 2) The '90 PCM is either not getting a good ground or power source, and not sending a good signal to the gauge. 3) A combination of both 1 & 2.... 4) Burn the truck down and collect my 14K totaled check from the insurance and buy a previously done LS OBS truck lol
The wipers sorta kinda work, they won't do anything unless I step outside the truck and manually move them, but then they only cycle once then return to nothingness. 1) Both the original AND the remanned motor have bad solder joints on the circuit card, and I'm just an unlucky SOB. 2) I left out a few ground straps during my swap, specifically one from the passenger head to the firewall that the wiper motor utilizes....<---Most likely this one....
Now the oil pressure gauge....yyyeeeaaahh that thing hasn't ever worked in my truck before. It always pegs out when I put the key in the on position, haven't been able to figure that one out yet unfortunately.
Other than that, it's going great! :)
Nice swap! How did you go about your hvac is it still being powered thru the old ecm? I'm doing the same swap and I read somewhere where they completely removed the ecm.
It's not really poweed through the old ECM, it's self powered so to speak. The A/C control box controls everything A/C related. I didn't remove/alter/ no nothing to the old ECM. The only thing I did, was cut out everything in the engine bay harness related to the TBI system at the firewall connection. I left the alternator, wiper, A/C stuff, etc alone. I didn't even take the lines off the compressor. You can completly remove the old ECM, and have done it for other swaps before, I just didn't wanna mess with anything all too much on my personal swap.
First crank up of the swap!
http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...ps61rumy7t.mp4