6.0 in a 81

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Originally Posted by ls182

Trans Dapt Performance Products - Engine Swap Motor Mount Kits
I used the factory location mounts part #4572


Which ones did you use because I didnt have a problem with mine?

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i used #4572

I'm really pumped about this project. My favorite body style pickup matched with a very reliable, powerful motor. I'm a little curious on how the cruise control will work. I know the th350 I have now runs on vacuum. and I assume if I go with a 4l60 or 80 it will be a little bit of work.

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Originally Posted by ls182

Thanks buddy!:thumb:

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Your welcome! I'm trying to do as much research as I can before I do mine so there are as few surprises as possible! :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lowchevytrucks8503

I'm really pumped about this project. My favorite body style pickup matched with a very reliable, powerful motor. I'm a little curious on how the cruise control will work. I know the th350 I have now runs on vacuum. and I assume if I go with a 4l60 or 80 it will be a little bit of work.

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If you use a drive by wire TB, it's pretty straight forward:

Drive By Wire Infomration Vortec Engines

and

Drive by wire

and

http://chevythunder.com/2004%20Corve...20page%201.gif

Well I know i want to use a newer 5.3 or 6.0 so it will be wire. I'm sure I can figure it out.

Grab you a stock Harness, send it to Nelson so the can play with it, get the dbw harness from pedal to module on firewall from the donor vehicle, cut the pedal bout half way up and weld it where you need it. As for a fuel pump, if you are gonna make power go with a walbro 255. Edelbrock has a variation that should mount in your sending unit.

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Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Ask and you shall receive!


* AC Delco EP381 in-tank pumps. $69 each at FE0114 - Electric Fuel Pump
* Pollak high psi tank selector valve, this is a direct OEM replacement (JC Whitney p/n ZX812705U) $83
* Fuel selector switch from an 87, replaces existing dash switch (AC Delco p/n D7089C) $11.50 at rockauto.com
* Corvette filter/regulator if running a returnless/1 line system (WIX p/n 33737) $34 at rockauto.com

If you don't already have in-tank pumps, you'll need sending units:

* Dorman p/n 692027 for the driver side, $94 at rockauto.com
* Dorman p/n 692044 for the passenger side, $101 at rockauto.com

To make the connections at the filter/regulator:

The inexpensive way:
* 3/8" female connector (Dorman p/n 800121) $6.30 at rockauto.com
* 5/16" female connector (Dorman p/n 800120) $6.30 at rockauto.com
* 3/8" x 12" double ended male connector (Dorman p/n 800120) $8.20 at rockauto.com

The "nicer looking" way:
* 3/8" to -6AN straight fitting, Russell #640850
* 5/16" to -6 AN straight fitting, Russell #640860
* -6AN to -6AN union, Russell #660350
* -6AN tube sleeve, Russell #660650
* -6AN tube nut, Russell #660571

And be sure to use a good quality high psi fuel pressure hose for connections, not regular fuel line. And use smooth stainless fuel hose clamps that look like these:

http://www.partssystems.com/images/T/fuel-01.JPG

If anyone see's something I forgot let me know, and I'll edit the post.

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did you use the original tank or did you use a '87 baffled tank?
what about headers, speedometer?

can we get someone to get this info together and stickie it?

Using the original 85 tanks. The truck had once been converted to TBI, and most everything but the tanks was swapped over. I haven't had any trouble except one time I let a tank get below 1/4, and it tried to die on a hard brake situation. Otherwise, no problems.

Stock manifolds, and a 90-91 Suburban electronic speedo.

Crap, this:

* 3/8" x 12" double ended male connector (Dorman p/n 800120) $8.20 at rockauto.com

should be part number 800155, NOT 800120.