Ok I'm lost what is OTS? That damn acronym is f-ing pissing me off. Lol can't figure it out. And the net only talks about ford mustang.
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Ok I'm lost what is OTS? That damn acronym is f-ing pissing me off. Lol can't figure it out. And the net only talks about ford mustang.
Ok that was really getting mad and I had ts but not the o. Lol damn acronyms, you would think after being in the military (7 yrs) I would be good with the damn things.
Update on the build, found out the heads were leaking. Don't know if porting can cuase a leak. The guy I bought them from stated they were ready to install. I didn't get them checked before the porting. So I bought a brand new set of 243 heads that will get the 225 full cnc job from advanced induction. I will get them to match it to my fast intake and tb, which are both 102mm. So it will be postponed till they get back.
Man those FAST intakes are huge. Sorry to hear the heads were muffed. Looks like you are going the right direction though. In for the updates.
Oh yeah I cant wait for it to be done either. Well I wasnt paying for the heads specifically to be ported it was part of the build and install. So the guy putting it in will end up compensating me. Now I dont know how much a stock bottome end can take, I've read that they can handle up to 500 hp.
Sounds like a nice build! Personally I would have went with a cam that had some more lift. Other than that it sounds good!
@kerrige-I was going to run the arp rod bolts but I didn't, what if the rods are the cracked kind of rods can you still use the arp bolts?
@00shortbox- I might Advanced Induction to spec me a cam to match the heads.
Honestly I don't understand what you mean, but I am pretty sure all stock rods have an option for ARP rod bolts. Its all you really need, until you start making some serious power.
sucks about the heads. that alot of dam intake. did you mention what your doing for exhuast?
I am doing pacesetter lt's, ory, into a bassanni muffler.
@kerrige- cracked pistons are where they connect around the crank they are not smooth but have been cracked apart. Then there are some that are smooth. If that makes sense.
Big end of the connecting rods are 'cracked' at the foundry instead of machining to create the rod caps. This 'rough' parting surface gives more stability to the rod assembly.
So can you run arp rod bolts or will they have to be refitted and different rod bearings?
IMO you should be able to just replace the bolts. Just follow the recommended torque specs.
Yeah but wih my cracked rods the bolts were fitted in the rods. They would not come out, its like they rod opening where the bolts were at were pinched to not allow them to come out. So I just sent hem back.
Here are the brand new 243 heads. I think I am not gonna get the cnc work. I think This will be fun enough with out going that extra mile. I'm not tring to break any records and be the fastest truck, just a fun truck to play with. I would rather invest a set of cnc'd heads on the 66/67 Nova I plan on getting by the end of the year if not begining of next.
Im staying with the stock rods. Are the rod bolts suppose to come out?
You think the bolts are loose and are just gonna slide out, but then theres a second step of threads. Yeah, they will come out.
Good to know. So that second set of threads keep them from coming out. So If i just thread them out and thread in the arp's and thats it. Even on the cracked style rods?
A little update, I have about 250+ miles on the engine and got on it. Wow very different with a basic tune from a 5.3. Pulls hard even with the engine in the bed of the truck. I need to get that thing sold. I also need to get a tc, I bought all the parts for the intake install. I am undecided as to go true duals or into a y? This was the best thiing I couldve done for my truck. lol
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_e7cf0496.jpg
Here is a sound clip of the truck without the long tubes. It has cats currently due to not having all the funds to do everything at once. Have all the parts just waiting on time and a little extra cash.