Engine and trans are in

I'm a lil late in the game here, but its a sharp ride and the install looks pretty clean!! Bet she'll haul once back out on the road!!!!!!

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Originally Posted by brian1987

The four wires you have to connect on the harness from Nelson, I believe, are 12v constant, fuel pump, tach, and speedo .

Maybe check with Red to be sure I haven't forgot anything as I am still learning as I go.

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hmm no kidding! that doesnt sound to bad...hopefully the speedo will calibrate correctly... HEY RED ANY IMPUT!

It's been a while since I saw one of the Nelson harnesses. One day maybe I'll have him build me one to clean up my under hood area.

12v positive
12v switched
tach
ground
fuel pump
starter
alternator

Tach is optional so there has to be another wire

Speedometer calibration is in the PCM/tune

Wow that thing looks really good!! I'm late on this too so forgive me for asking since its probably oosted but, What are the specs on this thing? Tranny and such?

engine is a 5.3l, trans is a 4l60e and the rear end is the stock 10 bolt.

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Originally Posted by brian1987

engine is a 5.3l, trans is a 4l60e and the rear end is the stock 10 bolt.

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what are you doing for fuel lines ?

Since I have a return style fuel rails, I am reusing the original line up to the old fuel fitting where I will clamp some High pressure hose and use the fuel line connectors red posted in his sticky.

Looks real good man!! What are using for tuning?

I am using a PCM programmed by Nelson performance (farmtruc)

Yep yep, should be a nice running machine once hes doen tuning it. I had a Nelson tune for a loooong time :)

Well, got the new fuel pump in, and fuel lines are connected. All I have left to wire up is the starter, and a couple power wires.

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Originally Posted by brian1987

Well, got the new fuel pump in, and fuel lines are connected. All I have left to wire up is the starter, and a couple power wires.

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damn can you smell it or what man! i cant frigen wait make sure we get detailed pictures!! are you running the walbro fuel pump?

hey wtf i was telling lee i got my swap done and its so sweet, got to drive it over the weekend and it is amazing going froma 4.3 to a 6.0 insane

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Originally Posted by Wtfan18

damn can you smell it or what man! i cant frigen wait make sure we get detailed pictures!! are you running the walbro fuel pump?

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yeah, I can't wait. Pics are a must. and yeah, I'm runnin the walbro pump

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Originally Posted by brian1987

yeah, I can't wait. Pics are a must. and yeah, I'm runnin the walbro pump

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im itching bad to get mine going!! i just bought a bike so now thats outa my system time to start buyin parts for the silvy.. should be done by spring. cant wait to here how yours goes!

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet.

im gettn my fuel pump tomorrow

you are not running the stock pump?
which one r u using then

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Originally Posted by beater6.0

you are not running the stock pump?
which one r u using then

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suppose to run a high flow pump.. Walbro 255lph

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Originally Posted by ChevyLee

suppose to run a high flow pump.. Walbro 255lph

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do you have to hard wire the walbros? i cant imagine the gm plugs fit right in do they?

i just used my stock pump

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Originally Posted by beater6.0

i just used my stock pump

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well my plan was to use a 5.7 vortec pump which i was told was enough and will have the same plugins etc..

1998 4.3 60 to 66 psi for the fuel pump, and a 2003 6.0 psi is 55 to 62. the stock pump works for me but im not getting on it racing to see if im running out fuel and i have no specs for volume

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Originally Posted by Wtfan18

do you have to hard wire the walbros? i cant imagine the gm plugs fit right in do they?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat

A good read... http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/Lisa%20Tahoe.pdf

Items needed...

Everyone that doesn't have a late model Vortec V8 engine (pre 1996)...
Walbro 255lph in-tank fuel pump or AC Delco EP-381. The Walbro I buy is for the Buick Grand Nationals.

Replace fuel pump with high pressure pump...
I find it much easier if you remove all the hoses, electrical connections and have the fuel pump assembly in hand away from the vehicle.

Removing the bed is the easiest way IMO.
Remove the retainer ring holding the pump and fuel level sensor by rotating it counter-clockwise. Disconnect the old pump by first removing the in-tank fuel filter sock, disconnect the electrical connection from the pump and pull the pump sideways to dislodge it from the hose. Remove and discard factory rubber hose connector that was connected between the pump and the feed tube..

Install the new pump...
If your pump came with new wiring connectors that are different from your factory wiring or your old wires are brittle or cracked, it's time to solder in the new connector or use red crimp connectors to join old with new. Be sure to cut one wire at least 1/2" longer than the other so that the connections won't have an opportunity to short to one-another.
DO NOT reuse the rubber hose that came with your factory OBS pump, it won't handle the pressure and WILL eventually blow out or leak and you WILL be doing it again. Use the hose that came with the Walbro kit or fuel injection quality hose or braided stainless hose that is rated for at least 60 pounds of fuel pressure. I use the hose from the kit and I buy the hose clamps that have smooth bands with a bolt through it. I prefer not to use the worm type clamp because it damages the outside of the hose. After you install the pump in the pump assembly, install the new in-tank sock type filter. DO NOT attempt to re-use the old one you removed from your old pump. Buy a new one if you didn't get one with your pump.
Re-install pump assembly into tank. If you had to remove a bunch of black butyl sealer around the fuel pump retainer ring, be sure you get some from your auto part store or GM to seal the tank back or else you WILL leak fuel when filling or when you have close to a full tank of fuel. Lock the fuel pump assembly back into the tank by turning the retainer ring clockwise until it stops. While you are at this point check all the electrical connections and grounds. Plug your pump electrical connector back in and reconnect all hoses you removed.

This section is if you will be using a single inlet fuel rail. A return style rail will use the old style filter and return line.

Corvette fuel filter commonly used in OBS conversions if you are doing a returnless type fuel rail install....

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/ind...p;TempYear=2000

http://www.wixconnect.com/images/filters/2510_1.gif

Wix 33737 www.planetautoparts.com $37.93
GM 10299146
Purolator F55493
GF1822
Hastings GF336
PGF336
GKI GF1822

Connectors required to hook to the filter...
Dorman PNs

3/8" female connector DOR-800-121 Midway Auto Supply Online Shopping $7.36 (2 required)
5/16" female connector DOR-800-120 Midway Auto Supply Online Shopping $7.36 (1 required)
3/8" x 12" double ended male connector DOR-800-155 Midway Auto Supply Online Shopping $9.57 (1 required)

Remove the factory fuel filter by cutting the tube with a tube cutter, not a saw, immediately behind the OBS fuel filter.

Cut the return line in about the same location and bend it slightly downward to make a new slip-on connection. You can now remove all the fuel lines forward of this point going to the OBS engine. Do not remove the smallest tube(evap/charcoal canister).

Install the Corvette fuel filter...
You'll need fuel injection quality fuel hose to connect the Dorman quick connects to the old steel fuel lines. I cut both the pressure and return lines about 2" before the factory filter location. Use the rubber fuel injection hose to connect to the new filter. Use 2 hose clamps on each end of the new connections. It's best if you use the hose clamps that have a smooth stainless steel liner to protect the hose. You'll need about 6 feet of hose to connect from the filter to the fuel rail if you have an extended cab. The outlet side of the filter will require the male fitting be cut to about 4"-6" long from one end and then push it into the fuel hose and double-clamp it.

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how to install

thought yours was a 98

it is. i know it says pre vortec. but you really need a high flow pump. it was recommend. did you change your fuel filter ? i was told if your motor had a single fuel line on the intake you would need a special filter for it, and change the fuel pump..

2 lines im using what i have it runs lol

You can put a pressure gauge on the line and see if you get 70+ PSI dead-headed. After that, check the flow rate. You need about one gallon per minute of flow. If either one fails, don't chance it, buy a pump like the 044 Bosch, the AC pump in the article or Walbro replacement pump for a late model truck or late model Buick Grand National.

The truck runs finally. I Jumped the starter and pretty much ran it from under hood, but engine starts vid shortly.

Here's the Link.

YouTube - First start up 5.3l swap.


Ignore the camera man. Only running on 7 cylinders, missing a plug wire.

its... ALIVEEE

lol, yeah it only took me a year haha. I lost interest in the truck about a month after I started working on it because the original engine was trashed. no compression. I paid $300 for this engine and started right up.

Good work! These Gen III engines are the best! Got a chance to drive it yet?

Not yet. Trans goes in this weekend.

Well plans changed. Picked up a T-56

good price. http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files/22/IMG_1035.JPG

Hope you don't have to take it apart. I just got one put back together Friday and I'm waiting on the engine install to see if it actually shifts....

LOL

Yeah I don't want to take this apart. If this thing takes a crap on me down the road I will send it out to be rebuilt.

sweet tranny. but I hate it when plans change, it's just another term for its not going to be done for even longer...

This shouldn't take too long, My truck was a 5 speed to begin with. I still have the clutch pedal in the truck. Only thing I have to worry about is the driveshaft.

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Originally Posted by brian1987

This shouldn't take too long, My truck was a 5 speed to begin with. I still have the clutch pedal in the truck. Only thing I have to worry about is the driveshaft.

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HAHA I may be able to save you some time. im assuming your yoke is the giant one like mine was. i went through all kinds of BS here with shortening my driveshaft and taking a yoke from a Turbo 350 and swapping it and all kinds of BS just to blow 2 u joints and destroy the driveshaft because it wasnt proper lenght and it was a big mess. only to find out when my dad was gone for a day i tried his drive shaft from his 98 2wd SBRC 4.3 with the 4l60e or what not AND not only did it fit PERFECT but the yoke is correct too. so i bought one exactly like that and its worked MINT paid 125$ for it used. its been beat at the track and such too and its still in 1 piece. so i hope this helps before you waste time and $$ on your stocker. its a few inches TOO LONG and the yoke in incorrect.